My 2nd Vintage SR. Tell Me About This Edge, Please.

[Slash McCoy]

So, I already know your prep is better than mine. Your experience is more broad I would think. This makes me think the problem is the razor.

I am going to tell you what I do when I hone my razors:

1. Put non adhesive 8 1/2" x12" 30 micron lapping film on a wet 12" square flat marble floor tile.
2. Take a credit card and squeegee the water from underneath the film.
3. Wet the top of the lapping film
4. Push the razor edge first forward, bring it back without lifting. Repeat 40-50 times
5. Turn the blade over and do the same on the other side the same number of times
6. Repeat this process with every piece of lapping films 30, 12, 9, 3, 1, .3, .5

A few small details above maybe you can improve upon.

First, don't hone on a whole sheet of film. The middle portion just gets wasted. Cut it carefully into thirds, longways. Then you don't need a big 12x12 tile, just a 3x12 tile, or better yet acrylic. So each sheet gets full usage and you hone more razors per sheet. The 3" wide plate is also much easier to hold in hand and yields more to the razor. I bet you are laying the 12x12 on a bench. I know it seems like it is easier to control the razor that way, but really it inhibits pressure regulation and control. Honing in hand is superior, particularly while learning. Once you have experience it doesn't really matter so much but I still hone in hand because the results are more consistent and sure.

I would drop the .5u and .3u films, and replace with .5u, .25u, and .1u diamond, and drop the CrOx. But if that is out of the question, at least put the .5u before the .3u film. From the .3u film you can go straight to .25u diamond and then .1u diamond. .3u is finer than .5u. .3u is also infamous for creating harsh edges, btw. And there is no point using .3u film at all, if you then hone on a coarser grit afterwards.

And be sure that firstly, you actually need all those laps, particularly at the bevel setting grits, and secondly that you do in fact get a good bevel from end to end, with proof that the bevel is set. Thirdly after the bevel is set, switch to regular alternating laps. So much back and forth on one side at a time will raise a burr when you actually need to be removing and preventing it from reforming once the bevel is set.

These details will certainly improve your results. Try it if you don't believe me.

 

[Slash McCoy]

You gentlemen are helpful and encouraging and much appreciated.

Next time I plan to shave with a SR - which should be either Friday or Saturday - I will have two additional shave-ready razors. Both should arrive tomorrow if the tracking is correct. Both are from an eBay vendor I've been told by several people provides shave-ready razors; I hope what I've been told is correct. I am of the opinion that my technique and such can and will improve as I continue on. Of course that is just my opinion and no form of certainty or anything like that is involved.

A couple more shave-ready razors will help.

I'm hoping to have a breakthrough, but all I can do is continue on and do the best I can.

Thanks you so much,,

Jim

Your desire to succeed at this will carry you through to the next level. You will get this. It may be a blinding flash of epiphany or it might be more of a steady process, but you will get it, and probably soon.

 

[Twelvefret]

A few small details above maybe you can improve upon.

First, don't hone on a whole sheet of film. The middle portion just gets wasted. Cut it carefully into thirds, longways. Then you don't need a big 12x12 tile, just a 3x12 tile, or better yet acrylic. So each sheet gets full usage and you hone more razors per sheet. The 3" wide plate is also much easier to hold in hand and yields more to the razor. I bet you are laying the 12x12 on a bench. I know it seems like it is easier to control the razor that way, but really it inhibits pressure regulation and control. Honing in hand is superior, particularly while learning. Once you have experience it doesn't really matter so much but I still hone in hand because the results are more consistent and sure.

I would drop the .5u and .3u films, and replace with .5u, .25u, and .1u diamond, and drop the CrOx. But if that is out of the question, at least put the .5u before the .3u film. From the .3u film you can go straight to .25u diamond and then .1u diamond. .3u is finer than .5u. .3u is also infamous for creating harsh edges, btw. And there is no point using .3u film at all, if you then hone on a coarser grit afterwards.

And be sure that firstly, you actually need all those laps, particularly at the bevel setting grits, and secondly that you do in fact get a good bevel from end to end, with proof that the bevel is set. Thirdly after the bevel is set, switch to regular alternating laps. So much back and forth on one side at a time will raise a burr when you actually need to be removing and preventing it from reforming once the bevel is set.

These details will certainly improve your results. Try it if you don't believe me.

What I am doing works for me. I’ve successfully honed and stropped four razors and shaved with them.

What I am trying to do is help a fellow member in an as simple manner as possible.

 

[Slash McCoy]

What I am doing works for me. I’ve successfully honed and stropped four razors and shaved with them.

What I am trying to do is help a fellow member in an as simple manner as possible.

Okay.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Thanks to everyone for all the help. It's all much appreciated. Probably greatly valuable to other guys, too.

 

[Twelvefret]

So, are you going to hone and use those new treasures?

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I suspect this is directed at me...

So, are you going to hone and use those new treasures?

If it is you might not understand the post unless you look at this post, linked.

In which case the answer is yes of course.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Twelvefret]

Perfect

 

[Tony D]

Thanks to everyone for all the help. It's all much appreciated. Probably greatly valuable to other guys, too.

This has been an extremely helpful thread. I’m at the point now where I’m looking into different 12k finishers and this thread led me to the Shapton. I’m really excited to get a few edges with it and see how they feel. Thanks all for shortening this newbie’s learning curve!