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Mustache Shaving Issues

Hi All,

Hoping for some advice. I currently shave with Feather AC (folding and non folding), and get some pretty decent shaves with them. I have a trouble spot that always seems to come up though, and that is shaving my mustache. I have watched several videos on how people do it, but I can't help but get a nick regardless. I am currently trying to put the blade straight under my nose, then sort of scoop down (as I have seen in videos). This usually results in a very uncomfortable pass that either does not come out clean, or I get nicked right by my lip. Does anyone in the straight razor community have any tips on how to get this trouble spot? I sometimes have to finish my shave with a DE to avoid nicking myself twice, but every attempt I have made of using the shavette in this area leads to bad results. Thoughts, suggestions? It seems like the angle is too severe, but I am not sure how to properly shave this area without having that kind of angle.
 
With my SR's I use the scooping technique for WTG under the nose. This of course does not give a smooth finish. A BBS result comes from an ATG pass (fool's pass).

The fool's pass is not for a beginner. To get a BBS result in the mustache area with a fool's pass takes an exceedingly sharp edge and patience to develop the skill.

I now perform a fool's pass with every shave. This is not to get BBS (which I do get) but rather to test the condition of the blade's edge - the Fool's Pass Test (FPT).
 
So I think, from reading this, two different issues.
1) Cut just above the lip. To me SR shaving around the mouth is always about not cutting the Lip. Main way I avoid this is to keep my chin down (so a good gap between upper and lower teeth) and then adjusting the mouth opening to keep the skin tight and curling in both lips so that the highest local point is the skin just beyond the edge of the lips.

2) Clean shave in the mustache area - I’ve started to move away from the scoop on the WTG pass because its pretty ineffective for me for bigger razors. So I start wherever I feel I can get a decent starting angle and work down from there on the WTG pass. Then I finish the part just below the center of the nose with a inside to outside XTG pass, which can get me a lot closer to the nostrils. Then on the 2nd XTG pass I hit it from the opposite direction, so from the cheek to under the center of the nose. I sometimes use the Fool’s Pass on the 3rd ATG pass, but for whatever reason even my very sharpest razors grind to a halt in my mustache hairs, so usually have to use something of a Gillette Slide to accomplish this.
 
Thank you both. I will try this next time. I just used an artist club, with some chiseled face soap, and got a mild weeper. Nothing that alum wouldnt solve. I am getting better, but would still rather not risk the irritation.
 
.... I sometimes use the Fool’s Pass on the 3rd ATG pass, but for whatever reason even my very sharpest razors grind to a halt in my mustache hairs, so usually have to use something of a Gillette Slide to accomplish this.
Try it with a shavette fitted with half-blade Feather DE blade. That is the edge sharpness that I put on my SR's - well I try to.

If the shavette/Feather combination still grinds to a holt, then you know that a fool's pass is just not going to work for you. If it does work, you need to work on your SR edge(s).
 
When shaving AGT on my top lip with my Feather AC DX I hold the razor in my left hand, with my right hand holding the end of the razor. I hold the razor horizontally and keep it perfectly still. Rather than move the razor I move my head instead to do the top lip using small smooth nodding movements while keeping the blade still. This gives me a better and more controlled result than moving the blade. For me the key is two things - use both hands to hold the razor at both ends, and keep the razor still and move my head to shave the top lip. Good luck.
 
Try it with a shavette fitted with half-blade Feather DE blade. That is the edge sharpness that I put on my SR's - well I try to.

If the shavette/Feather combination still grinds to a holt, then you know that a fool's pass is just not going to work for you. If it does work, you need to work on your SR edge(s).

Its worth a try - I have a sample pack of Feather DE blades. Can you just snap them in half to use in a shavette?
 
You should be able to snap it in half and insert it in your shavette (depending which shavette you have.) I had a Parker shavette that accepted snapped DE blades. Also, for what its worth, when I use a feather blade in my DE, it cuts through mustache hair effortlessly WTG, ATG, does not matter. Obviously your results may be different, but they certainly provide a close shave for me, they are VERY sharp though.
 
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