Spot on , Porter. To me, the term has always been an objective one about the amount of blade exposure. One's response to that exposure is a completely different matter, and really nothing to do with the term.
Most Aggressive (non-adjustable) Gillette?
- Thread starter DrAwkward
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Spot on , Porter. To me, the term has always been an objective one about the amount of blade exposure. One's response to that exposure is a completely different matter, and really nothing to do with the term.
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Exactly.
I do think that there may be other factors that can sometimes contribute to roughness: blade chatter, poor alignment, etc. For example, I think the NEW deluxe 15mm and 17mm heads are similarly aggressive, but the 15 mm is slightly rougher.
I still have not formed an opinion as to the answer to my own question. I guess I need to investigate more.
Thanks for that explanation MacDaddy. So if aggressiveness is only a matter of these kinds of dimensional measurements, then the answer to the OP's question is really not a matter of opinion at all; just observation.
Like the articles I've seen over in the wiki section, ranking different shavers by their respective blade gaps and by weight. This was an interesting thread as well, where the different Gillette 3 piece razors were measured for the blade's angle, exposure and the blade gap. Might as well give it a bump here -
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/162987-Photo-Analysis-of-Razor-Designs
And the wiki links -
by aggressiveness - http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/Double-Edged_Safety_Razors_Ranked_by_Aggressiveness
by blade gap - http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/Double-Edged_Safety_Razors_Ranked_by_Blade_Gap
by total weight - http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/Double-Edged_Safety_Razors_Ranked_by_Weight
by weight head weight - http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/Double-Edged_Safety_Razors_Ranked_by_Head_Weight
Like the articles I've seen over in the wiki section, ranking different shavers by their respective blade gaps and by weight. This was an interesting thread as well, where the different Gillette 3 piece razors were measured for the blade's angle, exposure and the blade gap. Might as well give it a bump here -
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/162987-Photo-Analysis-of-Razor-Designs
And the wiki links -
by aggressiveness - http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/Double-Edged_Safety_Razors_Ranked_by_Aggressiveness
by blade gap - http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/Double-Edged_Safety_Razors_Ranked_by_Blade_Gap
by total weight - http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/Double-Edged_Safety_Razors_Ranked_by_Weight
by weight head weight - http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/Double-Edged_Safety_Razors_Ranked_by_Head_Weight
Problem is different people will factor in blade angle, exposure, and gap differently. So one razor might have the most aggressive angle and gap, but a lesser exposure could make it mild. Some may still consider it very aggressive while others not. There's definitely objectivity in the numbers for angle, exposure, and gap, but how to consider them brings opinions back in.
Most Gillette razors are middle of the road or on the milder side of middle of the road as they wanted to reach the broadest market (those that needed to shave every day).
Out of all the Gillette razors I have used, the old type is the one that bites the most.
Out of all the Gillette razors I have used, the old type is the one that bites the most.
I think that there's probably a good deal of personal variation (YMMV being the universal rule), but in my experience, it's toss-up between Red-tip, New LC, and the Sheraton OC.
Of the ones I have tried, the Old Type and the New Standard Tuckaway were the most aggressive, but certainly good shaves. I am most curious to try a Big Boy Deluxe and a New Deluxe 15mm version. Those are the only other US made Gillette's I believe I want to add to my collection.
Yes, it ought to be more or less objective; however, it's incredibly difficult without specialized tools to measure directly, and so we end up attempting to intuit it rather than measuring directly. Blade gap can vary without changing blade exposure, and conversely you can have two razors with the same gaps but different exposures because of other variations in geometry. Even something like the photographic analysis that Bill did could be skewed by minute variations in camera or razor angle or the interpretation of blurred elements in the images themselves.
For a TTO, the 1934 silver plated Aristocrat (open comb).
My observation, based on MacDaddy's astute definition is that my Single Ring is slightly more aggressive than my hefty Big Fellow.
In the midst of shaving, it feels as though I have to be a tad more careful with the Old Type than the New Improved. (That's not a complaint - they just have a different feel to them)
In the midst of shaving, it feels as though I have to be a tad more careful with the Old Type than the New Improved. (That's not a complaint - they just have a different feel to them)
I've noticed that with my Old Type as well. When I shave with my old type I can really tell if I am applying too much pressure or if my angle is off. With my New the amount of pressure and angle is not as obvious.
Maybe that's why I seem to get better shaves from my old type and even better shaves from my single ring which has a thinner top plate then my old type. Both razors always seem to remind me to slow down and take shorter strokes
Definitely Old Type!
Interesting how aggressiveness is perceived...
From those in my collection, I'd rate aggression as follows (highest to lowest) :
- '34 NEW Red & Black
- '48-'50 Aristocrat / '55 Diplomat / '53 President
- '56 SS Red Tip
- '03/4 Double Ring and '08 Single Ring (tie)
- '18 Simplified
- '31 Goodwill Model 160
- '41 Ranger Tech / '46 Milord
The Bulldog is repeatedly mentioned. I don't have one, so I can't comment; but I'm intrigued.
Cheers,
Rick
From those in my collection, I'd rate aggression as follows (highest to lowest) :
- '34 NEW Red & Black
- '48-'50 Aristocrat / '55 Diplomat / '53 President
- '56 SS Red Tip
- '03/4 Double Ring and '08 Single Ring (tie)
- '18 Simplified
- '31 Goodwill Model 160
- '41 Ranger Tech / '46 Milord
The Bulldog is repeatedly mentioned. I don't have one, so I can't comment; but I'm intrigued.
Cheers,
Rick
Methodology I follow to rate a razor's aggressiveness:
1. Smoothness after one down stroke (WTG).
2. Propensity of a given razor to draw blood.
1. Smoothness after one down stroke (WTG).
2. Propensity of a given razor to draw blood.
the Old Type is the most aggressive to me. I have 1 that was polished a lot on the plate and it made it more so. Wicked close shave!
I personally never considered anything Gillette ever made as overly aggressive. It been my problem of finding a few that were. Blue tip, silver tip, black tip, black handle flare, lady gillette and every Tech I ever tried were to mild for my taste, some to the point of useless.
The milord, 40s ss , rockets and rangers seem about the same to me. all shave great and are forgiving if your half asleep to the wheel.
Presidents, Diplomats and Aristocrats all shave to me about the same and seem just slightly more aggressive than those above.
I have a little tuckaway that is nice with a tad of bite.
The most aggresive one I ever had is an old type silver OC with the thin head like dymaxion is talking about. It isn't a mankiller or anything but you are aware of the blade. It is my favorite shaver but it is so minty I feel guilty using it much as it tarnishes easily. I like it so well I still break it out now and then. Its almost like after the first 100 years of service it has earned a right to be put out to stud.
But to answer your original question. Yes it seems as time went on the razors get milder in General.
I have never tried a bulldog, Big boy, 34 Aristocrat or Senator, Sheraton but I would love find them and give em a whirl. I have a feeling this is where my sweet spot would be but am to cheap to pay those exorbitant prices to find out.
The milord, 40s ss , rockets and rangers seem about the same to me. all shave great and are forgiving if your half asleep to the wheel.
Presidents, Diplomats and Aristocrats all shave to me about the same and seem just slightly more aggressive than those above.
I have a little tuckaway that is nice with a tad of bite.
The most aggresive one I ever had is an old type silver OC with the thin head like dymaxion is talking about. It isn't a mankiller or anything but you are aware of the blade. It is my favorite shaver but it is so minty I feel guilty using it much as it tarnishes easily. I like it so well I still break it out now and then. Its almost like after the first 100 years of service it has earned a right to be put out to stud.
But to answer your original question. Yes it seems as time went on the razors get milder in General.
I have never tried a bulldog, Big boy, 34 Aristocrat or Senator, Sheraton but I would love find them and give em a whirl. I have a feeling this is where my sweet spot would be but am to cheap to pay those exorbitant prices to find out.
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- #38
Lately, I have been on an odyssey: using a vintage Gillette Swede in a different razor every day. Of the Gillettes, the (thick) Old Type and the New Standard Tuckaway (both mounted on a stainless bulldog handle) have been the most aggressive (based on Porter's definition). Although the margin of victory was very small, the clear winner (in my mind) was the New Standard. If only I had a 1934 Aristocrat to compare it to ...
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