More Aggressive Razor

[mcmulvaney]

I've been at this wetshaving thing now dailly for about five months. In that time (thanks to practice and picking up so much excellent guidance here on B&B) I've learned to:

- Get consistently good lathers using face or bowl, either of my brushes, and any of the products that I currently have. New products typically take only one or two shaves to start getting usable lathers.

- Get BBS shaves on my face with 2 passes. (Not a big accomplishment - the hair isn't that tough and there isn't that much of it.)

- Get 'mostly' BBS shaves on my neck with 3-5 passes.

...and there's the rub (as it were). I have a couple of patches on either side of my neck where there always seems to be a little something left. Under the best circumstances the patches are small and basically feel like very worn out fine grit sandpaper. Wiser men than I would say "good enough!" and shave happily on (especially since SWMBO has already given the "Oooooh!" seal of approval). But not me - I want a 2-pass BBS shave every day! (I'm as obsessive about this as many of the rest of you!) So...

I've done a few experiments over the last week. I've tried shimming my late '40s Fat Handle Tech. Minor improvement, but nothing special. Then I tried loosening the TTO clamp on my 1966 Lady Gillette a little less than 1/4 turn for my 3rd pass. Significant improvement. I've found that using the loose razor on my neck beginning with the 1st pass allows me to get that 2-pass BBS shave. Conclusion: I think I'm ready for a more aggressive razor. Now I'd like to find a way to do that safely...

I've researched various threads on the factors involved in razor aggression as well as reviews and commentary on various known aggressive razors as well as slants and open comb models. At this point, I think my preferences are these:

- I don't think I want an adjustable razor. Despite the evidence of numerous vintage Gillette adjustables, my take is that more parts = more chances for failure. (However, you are welcome to try to persuade me otherwise...)

- I like the longer handle on my LG (4"). I think I could be happy with one slightly shorter, but not as short as the 3" handle on my Tech.

- Both of my current razors are quite light and I definitely buy into the thought that when using a cutting tool, let the tool do the work. I think that a heavier razor would work for me.

- I don't think I'm ready to step up to a slant. The general favorable reviews that I see still tend to say, "Wonderful shave - better pay close attention".

So, after the research and reviewing the field, I think that my choices boil down to: Merkur 11C, Merkur 12C, vintage Gillette New, Cooncat Bob NEW head with one of his handles. What do you think?

Let the debate begin...

 

[cdustercc]

I think you will like the aggressiveness of the Merkur. I have one and can't get the shaves from my 40's style super speed that the Merkur offers. I am going to try a Fatboy and a Red Tip though, so I haven't completely written off Gillette.

 

[Niles]

The only Merkur I can speak for is the hd 34c, and I would heartily recommend that one.

 

[HoosierTrooper]

Since you asked, I'd recomend a 1912 Gem/Ever-Ready/Star, or an injector. Try something other than a double edge.

 

[moontroll]

I know you seem to be already disinclined toward these - but with the right prep I get the closest shaves with a hoffritz slant and gillette adjustable. Just fyi - I have very sensitive skin, and the part about 'you better pay attention' with the slant is far exaggerated IMO. I shave with it as normal, but don't do as many passes as with a milder razor (but then again, the hoffritz is the only slant i own). My adjustable is set at 6, and i can't seem to get a better or closer shave. Lately I find my merkur 38c to be the most aggressive of all, but i think it's just the weight after using a series of lighter razors.

 

[Mike'sWorld]

Since you asked, I'd recomend a 1912 Gem/Ever-Ready/Star, or an injector. Try something other than a double edge.

+1 here. Your wet shaving journey sounds very similar to my own. As I got more and more comfortable and skilled with shaving, I began to look for more and more aggressive shavers. Try single edge. The razors, unlike vintage Gillette, can be found in pristine shape at a very low price. My favorites are the Gem G-bar and 1912. Both are smooth and close in a way that DE razors can't match. I agree that simple is better. That's a big reason I left the multiple blade over marketed monstrosities.

 

[DoubleE]

I would try a Merkur. I personally find them to be more aggressive than Gillettes. One of my favorites is the long-handled classic. It's not that aggressive, but more so than what you're using (YMMV). But, I really like the adjustable Progress. Just because it adjusts doesn't mean you have to. Start with the lowest setting, and keep moving it up a little until you find the sweet spot that you like. Then, just keep it there.

Good luck in your search.

 

[media]

I didnt think I needed a gillette adjustable until I tried one. It so nice being able to make 1 razor a perfect fit for you instead of trying 20 razors trying to find the right level. Food for thought.

I need a more aggressive razor, I use a fatboy on 7. A merkur isnt doesnt have as much bite as that, but it would be my second choice. The 40s superspeeds are way too mild.

 

[george248]

a new Futur... can be dialed anywhere from mild to wild!

 

[MoJoe]

I don't have an adjustable yet but I do have a Merkur Sledgehammer Slant. That's the 39c long handle version of the slant. I've had it for almost a year and use it pretty much exclusively because I get closer with it than any of my other razors. Once I started using it I have found that I gravitate towads the sharper blades (Feather/Kai/Iridium) when I use it.

 

[binowatch]

+1 on a Gem or Injector. They give a shave much closer to a straight and the manuverabiltiy of the injectors allows adjustment to pattern of beard growth more easily. I think the problem on the neck is more the angle of attack on the hairs than the agressiveness of the razor.

 

[Blue58]

OK this is just my 2 cents.... You said you felt that a heavy razor would suit you. Well the 46-47 Aristocrat is a beefy heavy razor and it is aggressive especially if you use Astra SP blades in it (these are super sharp blades).

I have probably the toughest beard you will ever see and with this combo I can get a very smooth shave in 2 passes.

This is the razor you will either love it or hate it... there is no in between.

 

[cooncatbob]

 

[Go West Young Man]

I don't think I want an adjustable razor. Despite the evidence of numerous vintage Gillette adjustables, my take is that more parts = more chances for failure. (However, you are welcome to try to persuade me otherwise...)

Gillette's adjustables are built like tanks - 50, 60 years later most of the ones you find in the wild are in as good shape as the day they were made. Since you want a heavier razor, the Fatboy would be right up your alley, but the Slim is still heavier than what you're used to and can be found much cheaper.

For that matter, a red tip might be nice too - you're already comfortable with the Superspeed head and balance, it would be an easy transition.

 

[Ski-Patroller]

a new Futur... can be dialed anywhere from mild to wild!

+1

The Future is solid, heavy, and well made. You can find your setting and leave it alone, or fine tune it a little to allow for variations in blades, soaps or hangover.

 

[kf4tqj]

Guess we're in the same boat. I've been using a 1954 Super Speed and recently bought an adjustable. Lots better. I can get a BBS shave on 7, but after a few days of that I start to get a bit irritated and go back to the SS. Need a bit more practice I guess. I bought my son a Merkur 34C for Christmas and of course had to try it. Don't tell him. Loved the feel but with only 1 shave with it I got a better shave with the Super Speed and much better with the adjustable. Still, I loved the weight and look of it so I guess I'll try a Markur slant bar next. The Merkur adjustable look interesting, but the one with a plastic ball on the end is out just because it's plastic. The Future looks interesting, but I'd worry about the wires getting loose. The Vision might be a winner though.
Let us know what you decide.
All The Best,
Woody

 

[xgunterx]

I own a Merkur 12C, 38C and 39C. Also a ss and 2 slims.
I reach for the slant for almost 95%.

 

[mcmulvaney]

Wow! What a wonderful response - thanks so much. One thing that stands out here is how much YMMV applies. Although I had some preconceptions on how I want to get to a 2-pass BBS, its obvious that there is more than one way to get there.

Let me try to recap what you've told me so far:

1 - Merkur Open Combs
2 - Merkur 34c/38c
3 - SE's (including injectors)
3 - Slants
3 - Gillette Adjustables
2 - Merkur Futur
1 - '47-'48 Gillette Aristocrat
1 seductive picture - BRW 4" Slim BM Handle w/NEW Long Comb Head - (I confess - I've ogled this beauty several times already...)

You gotta admit - that's a pretty even distribution...

However, you have convinced me to open my net a little wider, so I'm going back to the research and probably focus mostly on reviews and discussions of the slants and adjustables. Although the SE crowd is persuasive, I think that for now I will leave that to a future experiment. (What? Did you think I was going to be done with RAD after this one?)

BTW - A thank you to the enablers in the crowd who didn't suggest that I acquire one of each!

I'll be back tonight or tomorrow with a decison - need to get this on my Christmas list in plenty of time (although I'm not sure I'll be able to hold out until Christmas to get it!).

Thanks, everyone!

 

[Kamidanshir]

...The Merkur adjustable look interesting, but the one with a plastic ball on the end is out just because it's plastic.

That would be the Progress - if you don't like the look of the plastic knob, you might want to check out the Mergress, which is the same razor with a few aftermarket modifications.

 

[mdevine]

Consider a Gillette with a New Improved head. A Tuckaway will be too short given your requirements but a New Standard/ Bostonian may fit the bill. Out of the dozen razors I have, these shave the closest. I also think they are one of the best looking razors I've seen.