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Modern Razor for Vintage Shaver?

Expanding your horizon from vintage Gillettes doesn't necessarily mean going modern. I have a load of vintage DE razors that aren't Gillettes, which by comparison are pretty mediocre compared to my vintage Leresche/Gibbs/Wardonia/Probak razors or the ASR/Personna Star DE (the Techier Tech, if you will).

I can recommend a couple of vintage-inspired new designs from PAA, the Leresche/Kirby Beard-inspired Prismatic and the Double Open Comb based on the Grand Shave King self-lubricating razor. The DOC can fool you; if you tighten the head all the way down it's a pretty mild and not so efficient razor; back it off about half a turn and it's a completely different, much more efficient shaving experience.
That reminds me...I've got sweet, cased Leresche Open Comb razor that I haven't touched in ages. I should really dust it off and give it a spin.
 
In that case head for the RazoRock / Italian Barber website and you'll be a happy camper, as these are the best modern razors, made of 316 SS, with a wide range of also SS handles. Think Lupo and Gamechanger primarily.

You also might want to try their SE "king", the Hawk V3, which fares around $70, hard to beat for the money, fantastic shaver.

Alternatively, you can get yourself the Blackland Vector. I know it's twice your stated budget, but then you'll get the best modern razor money can buy. Worth every cent BTW.

Or Mamba 0.7. Depends on how mild you need the razor to be. Mamba is ridiculously smooth and mild.


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The Merica razor from Wet Shaving club is an excellent smooth razor made from 316 SS by Yates Precision Manufacturing in Pennsylvania
 
I can recommend a couple of vintage-inspired new designs from PAA, the Leresche/Kirby Beard-inspired Prismatic and the Double Open Comb based on the Grand Shave King self-lubricating razor. The DOC can fool you; if you tighten the head all the way down it's a pretty mild and not so efficient razor; back it off about half a turn and it's a completely different, much more efficient shaving experience.

I haven't tried any PAA razors yet. The META-4 Safety Razor(Flare Tip Series,316 L Stainless,Clog Proof) is supposed to be a better version of the Prismatic (head made of zamak with brass handle). Other differences besides being SS. Currently sold out. Have you tried it or know someone who has?

For the DOC, I assume you mean the Ascension and not the original. They have 4 versions: zamak head with SS handle (sold out), all aluminum, all SS, and all Copper Silver Alloy with 2 different finishes. Which do you have/recommend? I am not ready to buy right now but maybe someday. :)

thanks
 
I haven't tried any PAA razors yet. The META-4 Safety Razor(Flare Tip Series,316 L Stainless,Clog Proof) is supposed to be a better version of the Prismatic (head made of zamak with brass handle). Other differences besides being SS. Currently sold out. Have you tried it or know someone who has?

For the DOC, I assume you mean the Ascension and not the original. They have 4 versions: zamak head with SS handle (sold out), all aluminum, all SS, and all Copper Silver Alloy with 2 different finishes. Which do you have/recommend? I am not ready to buy right now but maybe someday. :)

thanks

I have the original PAA DOC, I couldn't possibly care less if the head is Zamak, it's a great razor and was dirt cheap when I bought it. Same with the Prismatic.
 
I have the original PAA DOC, I couldn't possibly care less if the head is Zamak, it's a great razor and was dirt cheap when I bought it. Same with the Prismatic.
Yes, I agree. I am waiting on a Yaqi zamak SLOC, the Mellon. I am still not sure what the difference is between a SLOC and a DOC. I have looked it up and there are many explanations that left me confused.

I thought the Ascension twist was the one PAA considers adjustable?
 
Now, this was a surprise. I was fully prepared for a fairly aggressive shave this morning. I installed the #3 base plate ("Average Skin, Daily Shave) in the Rockwell 6S, loaded a new Astra SP blade, did my usual prep (shower), face-lathered from a puck of Pre de Provence #63, and started in. I stopped after a few seconds to see if I had a senior moment and forgot to load a blade! Nope, it was there. Then I double-checked to make sure I had the #3 plate properly installed. It was correct. I completed two passes, one with the grain and one against the grain (my usual shave). Normally, I'd have myself a damn fine shave, needing only a little touch-up/blade buffing to finish. This time, I still had considerable stubble and some areas didn't feel much different than when I started. I gave up, grabbed the Gillette Milord I used yesterday (also with an Astra SP), lathered up again, and cleaned off the leftover stubble. Needless to say, I was surprised, and more than a little disappointed. I'm going to try again tomorrow, probably switching to the #5 plate and seeing how it goes. I sure hope I see some improvement. :confused1
I just finished shaving with the #5 base plate on the Rockwell 6S. Much better! Excellent two-pass shave with no irritation, cuts, nicks, gashes, or dismemberments! It felt a tiny bit too aggressive so I'm going to try the #4 plate tomorrow. I'm zeroing in on the perfect setting. If #4 turns out to be too mild, I'll have no problem going back to the #5. I'm kind of surprised, as I always thought myself favoring a smoother, less-aggressive razor, but maybe my vintage razors are more efficient than I realized.
 

ERS4

My exploding razor knows secrets
I just finished shaving with the #5 base plate on the Rockwell 6S. Much better! Excellent two-pass shave with no irritation, cuts, nicks, gashes, or dismemberments! It felt a tiny bit too aggressive so I'm going to try the #4 plate tomorrow. I'm zeroing in on the perfect setting. If #4 turns out to be too mild, I'll have no problem going back to the #5. I'm kind of surprised, as I always thought myself favoring a smoother, less-aggressive razor, but maybe my vintage razors are more efficient than I realized.


The advantage of 6s is that many people own it and use 6S plates as a basis for comparing efficiency and comfort; it makes it easier for us to distinguish the performance of the razor in the collection and our own preferences.

Even if you want to buy other razors in the future, it is easy to see the discussion in the forum comparing it with 6s, so you can know the approximate use experience of the razor in advance.
 
I wasn't impressed by the 6S either and the reason I bought it was because it has 3 plates with 6 settings instead of the Razorock Game Changer .84 sb, but even on 6 it was too inefficient for me even when I use a Feather blade and after multiple strokes, passes and buffing. I've tried other blades, different angles, pressure whatever, but I just couldn't get the BBS I always go for no matter what I did and one day I just gave up and sold it. Maybe folks with not very dense and coarse beards get better results or those who don't chase the ''perfect'' BBS every time they shave. I've recently got the Game Changer .84 sb and for me it's much better than the 6S.
 
This morning I shaved with my New Deluxe with 30’s Big Boy handle, loaded my brush with Gillette Pure cream got a 3 pass BBS. Yesterday I shaved with modern mutt. Schone baseplate, some generic zamak old style top cap and my longest Maggard ss handle, loaded my brush with Palmolive cream and got a 3 pass BBS. The point is that the modern mutt was a little bit smoother. By the way both of them were loaded with GBS’s. Also by modern, I mean that every thing was made in the last few years. RIP TORN out
 
I just finished shaving with the #5 base plate on the Rockwell 6S. Much better! Excellent two-pass shave with no irritation, cuts, nicks, gashes, or dismemberments! It felt a tiny bit too aggressive so I'm going to try the #4 plate tomorrow. I'm zeroing in on the perfect setting. If #4 turns out to be too mild, I'll have no problem going back to the #5. I'm kind of surprised, as I always thought myself favoring a smoother, less-aggressive razor, but maybe my vintage razors are more efficient than I realized.
I'm back for my final report on the Rockwell 6S. I went back and tried the #4 plate, and although it gave me a fine shave, I thought it could be a bit more efficient. It tried again today with the #5, got a great two-pass shave, with no problems. I'm going to stick with the #5 plate for the time being. I think the more I use it, the more comfortable I get with the balance and angles. I'm overall quite pleased with this acquisition. I'm not getting rid of my vintage razors, but it's nice to have a balance between old and new.
 
I'm back for my final report on the Rockwell 6S. I went back and tried the #4 plate, and although it gave me a fine shave, I thought it could be a bit more efficient. It tried again today with the #5, got a great two-pass shave, with no problems. I'm going to stick with the #5 plate for the time being. I think the more I use it, the more comfortable I get with the balance and angles. I'm overall quite pleased with this acquisition. I'm not getting rid of my vintage razors, but it's nice to have a balance between old and new.
I found that I did the same thing when I first got my 6C. Started at plate 3, then moved up 1 step each shave till I got to 6, then went back down to 5. Now I can put any of the top 4 plates in and get a great shave in 3 passes. If I want a good enough 2 pass shave I have to pull out the FOCS, which I'm surprised no one mentioned here, but it is a little old school in design.
 
For me the vintage stuff is just cooler. But then I like old stuff in general. Old cars, old bicycles, old electronics, etc. etc. My vintage razors shave so well buying something new just doesn't interest me. I only have a few and all are occasionals except for my ~1949 Superspeed. I found it on ebay in near-new condition, paid $30. It's a perfect little piece of engineering. I get a great shave with it every time. Plating and mechanism are like new and I'm just naturally easy on machinery so I don't see why it won't be my daily driver for years to come.

Really any improvements are going to be very marginal. Gillette put millions of dollars (in 2021 money anyhow!) into the development of their razors and pretty much perfected it. There's really nothing left but fine adjustments unless someone invents a whole new mouse-trap. And since with DEs we're talking about a standard part at it's core it's hard to see how that could happen.
 

ERS4

My exploding razor knows secrets
Think in another direction.
People who like modern razors are not always pursuing all new concepts or magic, but they may also prefer modern processing to reinterpret classics.

For example, feathers reinterpret the beauty of Gillette tech by using MIM technology that did not exist in the previous era and materials that were difficult to process in the past.

Modern and classic are not necessarily binary opposites, they can add value to each other very harmoniously; and increase the beauty of our collection.

80984020_2726427610729458_1295436301968867328_n.jpg
 
Think in another direction.
People who like modern razors are not always pursuing all new concepts or magic, but they may also prefer modern processing to reinterpret classics.

For example, feathers reinterpret the beauty of Gillette tech by using MIM technology that did not exist in the previous era and materials that were difficult to process in the past.

Modern and classic are not necessarily binary opposites, they can add value to each other very harmoniously; and increase the beauty of our collection.

View attachment 1261419
I totally agree. That is why I wanted to add a modern take on vintage razors to my collection (and rotation). I'm still primarily focused on vintage, but my two modern razors add some nice variety to my morning shave ritual. Both seem to coexist quite well.
 
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