Modern GEM Razor Options

[IMightBeWrong]

So about 3 years ago I got my first GEM, a 1912 Everready. Fell in love with it. Then I got into AC razors a while later starting with the Brass General. Just before the Vector dropped, I tried the Sabre. I liked it but I felt the angle of it wasn’t as smooth or intuitive as the 1912’s. This said, I primarily use AC razors now but I occasionally bust out the 1912 and just love the edge on a PTFE blade.

So I’m curious, what other modern GEM razors have you all tried? What has stood out? Do any of the modern ones hold up to the vintage options in your opinion?

 

[clickity-click]

I have all of the GEM micromatics and also have a "Brooklyn" 1912. The GEM Flying Wing aka Bullet Tip is the standout for me and remains in my rotation. Many find it is mild on first acquaintance, but with familiarity it can produce very close shaves. It is nuanced, smooth and efficient. And fabulously engineered. I suspect mine is at least 70 years old but still works flawlessly and has no plate loss. It cost me a few £'s but I doubt you could produce one today for several hundred £'s. The engineering and quality is exquisite and always brings a smile to my face. For me one of the best razors ever made - better engineered and better than many SS DE's available today - A high quality, precision razor available today for pennies

 

[never-stop-learning]

I read your question as pertaining to currently made razors that use the GEM style blade?

If so, the Blackland Saber absolutely rocks.

The shaves I'm getting with the Saber are excellent.

 

[santamariasteve]

I have all of the GEM micromatics and also have a "Brooklyn" 1912. The GEM Flying Wing aka Bullet Tip is the standout for me and remains in my rotation. Many find it is mild on first acquaintance, but with familiarity it can produce very close shaves. It is nuanced, smooth and efficient. And fabulously engineered. I suspect mine is at least 70 years old but still works flawlessly and has no plate loss. It cost me a few £'s but I doubt you could produce one today for several hundred £'s. The engineering and quality is exquisite and always brings a smile to my face. For me one of the best razors ever made - better engineered and better than many SS DE's available today - A high quality, precision razor available today for pennies

Brother Clickity,

The Gem Flying Wing Micromatic razor was made in 1947-1948.

 

[Old Hippie]

So I’m curious, what other modern GEM razors have you all tried? What has stood out? Do any of the modern ones hold up to the vintage options in your opinion?

I like modern and vintage both, but often for different reasons. I have two moderns that I like a lot: the PAA Starling V2 (OC plate) and the ATT G1 (ver. 2 plate).

Of the two the Starling gives me a slightly closer shave, but with some additional irritation. The Starling is pretty much dead-on to the MMOC, with the advantages that it's just this --><-- much smoother/closer than the MMOC (or MY MMOC, anyway). At the price, even though it's an aluminum razor, it's pretty good. I put an ATT Kronos handle on mine and it's probably as good as it can get.

The ATT G1 really engages my fan-boy module. It's a pretty mild razor, with a somewhat narrow working zone, but like some other moderns the retaining stud for the top cap goes through the centre of the blade. This makes the head quite maneuverable, though as a head shaver that's not my prime consideration. As ATT's naming taxonomy indicates, this is a safety bar razor. I've done some work on it and it shaves a lot closer now. I'm experimenting a bit, cautiously: the razor is out of production right now and parts are limited, so I don't want to mess them up. Just make them work a little better... Both razors need a full 3-pass shave.

I've thought about the Sabre, but I'm on the fence. I do NOT like the idea of that centre stud being so deeply relieved that it has so little thread coverage. The G1 has full circle thread coverage because the "stud" is actually a hook that fits into the cap. The relieving is on the hook, not on the stud.

With the exception of the MMOC I have always gotten closer, smoother shaves with moderns. That may be because aside from the MMOC my vintage Gems are all SB razors (Kampfe Star, Jr. Bar, Damaskeene, 1912s, ER 1914, Clog-Pruf and MMOC).

Actually, the ER 1914 "Little Lather Catcher" is a hidden jewel in my opinion. Even though it's an SB it has the mojo I need to get a clean shave. So much so that I'll look around for another one and/or a Shovelhead when I go antiquing this spring.

O.H.

 

[clickity-click]

Brother Clickity,

The Gem Flying Wing Micromatic razor was made in 1947-1948.

ahh, for the pedantic amongst us, the Flying Wing was produced at least into 1949 as it was also sold with the Push-Pak blade container which was only introduced in 1949.

 

[santamariasteve]

ahh, for the pedantic amongst us, the Flying Wing was produced at least into 1949 as it was also sold with the Push-Pak blade container which was only introduced in 1949.

Other sources say 1947-1948. Part of the confusion on these types of questions is are we talking about the years of production, or are we talking about years the merchandize was in the warehouses and retail stores?

I prefer years of production, as it might take many years before the last item was sold, and that's not what we're talking about. I don't care about how many years the merchandize was stored in a warehouse, awaiting it's turn to enter the business and advertising pipelines. In fact, there are still NOS razors showing up from time to time, and they may have been made years, even decades ago.

 

[clickity-click]

Other sources say 1947-1948. Part of the confusion on these types of questions is are we talking about the years of production, or are we talking about years the merchandize was in the warehouses and retail stores?

I prefer years of production, as it might take many years before the last item was sold, and that's not what we're talking about. I don't care about how many years the merchandize was stored in a warehouse, awaiting it's turn to enter the business and advertising pipelines. In fact, there are still NOS razors showing up from time to time, and they may have been made years, even decades ago.

...so there is no definative answer then. Further, as you may have guessed, the exact dates are not important to me...

 

[santamariasteve]

...so there is no definative answer then. Further, as you may have guessed, the exact dates are not important to me...

I recall the HoosierTrooper, who is now inactive, but who was very knowledgeable about dates of vintage razors, years ago saying it's relatively easy to determine the start up dates of the manufacture of ancient razors, but the stop dates are much more unclear and nebulous.

 

[Blackland Razors]

I've thought about the Sabre, but I'm on the fence. I do NOT like the idea of that centre stud being so deeply relieved that it has so little thread coverage.

When I first designed the Sabre I was worried about thread stripping and post bending. I anticipated having to replace a certain percentage of top caps. We’re coming up on three years and I’ve had to replace just one cap. It’s been incredibly reliable. So much so that I used the exact same post design on the Vector. Zero issues there. Between the two razors it’s been three years, a few thousand razors, and one failed top cap. It’s been a pleasant surprise.

 

[Neffarious]

That's a pretty solid design "by the numbers". A .03% failure rate is nothing to sneeze at.

 

[IMightBeWrong]

I had a Sabre. It’s a good razor but I wasn’t in love with it. My only real complaint is that I prefer the shaving angle that is very steep with my 1912 which I didn’t feel worked that well with the Sabre, which I found worked better with a more middle of the spectrum angle. I just feel that GEM blades like to be held closer to the face than the Sabre allows for. This is very YMMV of course.

 

[Old Hippie]

When I first designed the Sabre I was worried about thread stripping and post bending. I anticipated having to replace a certain percentage of top caps. We’re coming up on three years and I’ve had to replace just one cap. It’s been incredibly reliable. So much so that I used the exact same post design on the Vector. Zero issues there. Between the two razors it’s been three years, a few thousand razors, and one failed top cap. It’s been a pleasant surprise.

Forgive me re-quoting the whole thing, but that's a great reply. Thank you.

Just moved that up on my list a little!

O.H.

 

[IMightBeWrong]

I can definitely say that I have and love my Vector and trust the post to hold up a long time.

 

[emwolf]

I've been on a kick lately trying out some modern Gem designs. First up was the ATT G1. Great handle, but quite difficult to load the blade. Also, I found it mild to the point where I felt I would have to use some pressure. I've never successfully had a great shave with it. Decent shaves, sure, but nothing I'd write home about.

Next up was the PAA Starling V2. Much easier to load, very grippy anodized aluminum, but it felt rough every time I shaved. I got very good results, but I never felt comfortable during the shave. It could partly be weight, as I prefer heavier razors and tend not to buy aluminum razors (and rarely use them if I do). I did try both plates and found the open comb superior for comfort and closeness, but only marginally.

Just this morning was the Blackland Saber L1. Whoever designed this is a genius. It's loaded just like a three piece DE with no wonky "seating the blade" problems like the ATT. It's stainless and heavy. The shave is mild, ultra smooth, but very efficient. My first shave I left some stubble behind my right ear, but probably because I shave there with my non-dominant hand. My sole complaint is the handle. Going south to north on my head, it felt slippery to me. I might try replacing the handle and seeing how it works with a more knurled one.

That folks, is my experience. My recommendation is the Saber of the above three. Second would have to be ATT. Even thought it doesn't give me a great shave, it's at least a comfortable one and socially acceptable. The PAA would be third place, but it's by far the least expensive of the three, so (to paraphrase Bill Murry) it's got that going for it.