Mineral Oil

[Legion]

I used to use Ballistol on my 1911s years ago. I give credit to all who tolerate the smell. I put it somewhere between gym socks and black licorice.

Interesting stuff. It was used to both clean and lubricate firearm and treat leather since the early 1900s. Versatile stuff.

My mineral oil (or paraffin oil, where I live) is odorless, non toxic, good for the skin, and cheap. Full of win.

 

[Tomo]

I used to use Ballistol on my 1911s years ago. I give credit to all who tolerate the smell. I put it somewhere between gym socks and black licorice.

Interesting stuff. It was used to both clean and lubricate firearm and treat leather since the early 1900s. Versatile stuff.

The scent is somewhat of an acquired taste. I don’t mind it but it took some getting used to. It reminds me a bit of Jägermeister. Luckily it’s not overly strong and dissipates quickly. We only need small amounts for razors. It does a nice job on horn and timber scales too. It seems to be compatible with all materials typically found in a shave den. I think it’s got a slight edge on straight mineral oil in terms of ph, surface tension, beading and water solubility.

 

[Tomo]

My mineral oil (or paraffin oil, where I live) is odorless, non toxic, good for the skin, and cheap. Full of win.

Good for honing on too.

 

[Chard52142]

I'll wipe off the oil with soft tissue then do 3 feather light laps on cotton prior to leather...

 

[Titleist]

@SparkyLB ,

I give my straights a spritz of Clippercide or Andis Clipper Cool Care spray if I'm ever concerned about protecting/disinfection of my razors. Both sprays have a light lubricant as they are used with barber clippers too. It's a touchless way to protect my straights. Anytime I send a razor out for work or, if I receive one from another, they immediately get a spray with Clippercide or Clipper Cool to disinfect/protect.

I wouldn't recommend using wax unless you are storing your razors for an extended period. Less direct contact is better to avoid inadvertent damage to the edge.

I wipe mine down with tissue just before use as I want nothing on my strops.

Everyone is different. We all have our ways here. Find your way and make it your own.

 

[SparkyLB]

My mineral oil (or paraffin oil, where I live) is odorless, non toxic, good for the skin, and cheap. Full of win.

Couldn't agree more. There's no shortage of arguments on firearm forums about the latest, greatest, slickest oil. I think if hydrophobic, it'll work. Bacon grease would work fine for the intended purpose (inhibiting oxidation), but I'll stick with mineral oil. I can't have bacon and Bay Rum fighting it out.

@SparkyLB ,

I give my straights a spritz of Clippercide or Andis Clipper Cool Care spray if I'm ever concerned about protecting/disinfection of my razors. Both sprays have a light lubricant as they are used with barber clippers too. It's a touchless way to protect my straights. Anytime I send a razor out for work or, if I receive one from another, they immediately get a spray with Clippercide or Clipper Cool to disinfect/protect.

I wouldn't recommend using wax unless you are storing your razors for an extended period. Less direct contact is better to avoid inadvertent damage to the edge.

I wipe mine down with tissue just before use as I want nothing on my strops.

Everyone is different. We all have our ways here. Find your way and make it your own.

Agreed. Wax is great, but expensive. I'm going to spend my money on the good stuff--and even then I'm a cheapskate. Renaissance wax is GREAT for pistols in lieu of oil, but why? Anyone who uses it, likes the good stuff--and I can't take a contrary position on that. I like good stuff too--like Ralf Aust. One day a T.I. is in my future but not today.

Toilet paper and mineral oil it is then.

Thanks, @Titleist, you always seem to add something constructive, helpful and well-articulated!

 

[Alum of Potash]

After shaving and drying the blade, I dip it in a solution of four parts alcohol to one part mineral oil. After ten minutes, the alcohol evaporates leaving a thin trace of mineral oil. The blade is then folded up, either for the next shave or stored away for months, years. Before shaving, I gently wipe the blade with the bar towel I'm using during the shave to remove most of the oil, avoiding the edge. Then I gently strop the edge across a fingertip pad (fingertip stopping), one side, then the other to remove the traces of oil there. Afterwards, its ready to go.

 

[SparkyLB]

After shaving and drying the blade, I dip it in a solution of four parts alcohol to one part mineral oil. After ten minutes, the alcohol evaporates leaving a thin trace of mineral oil. The blade is then folded up, either for the next shave or stored away for months, years. Before shaving, I gently wipe the blade with the bar towel I'm using during the shave to remove most of the oil, avoiding the edge. Then I gently strop the edge across a fingertip pad (fingertip stopping), one side, then the other to remove the traces of oil there. Afterwards, its ready to go.

I like it!

 

[Frank Shaves]

I keep my razors in silicone-treated sleeves (from The Superior Shave) in a plastic tub* with a desiccant pack, and then use a thin cotton wash cloth to wipe off any "oil" before use.

*Or should I say tubs (plural) .

 

[SparkyLB]

Thank you. I might know the tube you’re talking about.

 

[alla2465]

I never put oil on any razors in storage, and I never had an issue.
I really don't think oil is needed, as long as your climate is not too humid.
But the most important thing is to store them in a cool, dry place, like a box in your closet and NOT your bathroom

 

[SparkyLB]

I only shower once every few weeks, whether or not I need to; so humidity is not an issue in my bathroom.