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Middle Pin? (Scales with a 3rd Pin). What's That About?

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
Here's a photo of one of my latest eBay finds. Paid $11.59 for it.

3.Holes.Pins..eBay.SR.640.1-24-19..jpeg


I purchased the razor realizing the blade had been modified. Here's what I'm thinking of doing.
  • I plan to remove the pivot pin (only, if possible).
  • I plan to replace this blade with another blade needing a home.
  • I plan to make scales for the modified blade.
I want to end up with a nice new home for my old Wade & Butcher blade which currently has no scales + I want to end up with a good looking and functional shorty. The modified blade appears to have been nicely done (but it's the only modified blade I've ever seen).

upload_2019-1-26_9-18-22.jpeg


I don't understand what to do with the middle pin.

As it stands now the middle pin has been wrapped several times with twine or string. Apparently this was done to cushion the tang as it sits on the pin.

I'm not 100% sure the wedge shouldn't be redone, but I won't know about that until I'm further along, but what I'd like to do is to remove and replace only the pivot pin and simply insert the W&B blade and a new pivot pin.

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Any ideas about why the twine was wrapped around the middle pin? I suspect they were trying to "fix" some functional problem. What problems?

This is the first razor I've acquired with the middle pin and I don't understand what it's about or how to deal with it or how to determine if it's "tight enough," or peened to the correct degree. What's the right way to deal with a razor's middle pin?

There may be other issues and problems with middle pins and this project. If you see any please advise me.

Thanks and happy shaves,

Jim
 
My guess without having the razor in hand, would be that they put the twine on the third pin to shim the pin so that the edge could not go beyond the bottom of the scales. Normally the tang does not touch the third pin on razors that include it. The pin is there to stabilize the scales or as a marketing artifact. Putting a shorty in normal length scales means that the wedge will be far from the contact point of the razor and scales so the razor could easily be pushed through the scales if there was nothing to stop it.

Personally I do not like third pins. Just something to work around when flossing the scales with tp to make sure that they are dry.
 
Here's a photo of one of my latest eBay finds. Paid $11.59 for it.

View attachment 947118

I purchased the razor realizing the blade had been modified. Here's what I'm thinking of doing.
  • I plan to remove the pivot pin (only, if possible).
  • I plan to replace this blade with another blade needing a home.
  • I plan to make scales for the modified blade.
I want to end up with a nice new home for my old Wade & Butcher blade which currently has no scales + I want to end up with a good looking and functional shorty. The modified blade appears to have been nicely done (but it's the only modified blade I've ever seen).

View attachment 947121

I don't understand what to do with the middle pin.

As it stands now the middle pin has been wrapped several times with twine or string. Apparently this was done to cushion the tang as it sits on the pin.

I'm not 100% sure the wedge shouldn't be redone, but I won't know about that until I'm further along, but what I'd like to do is to remove and replace only the pivot pin and simply insert the W&B blade and a new pivot pin.

proxy.php


Any ideas about why the twine was wrapped around the middle pin? I suspect they were trying to "fix" some functional problem. What problems?

This is the first razor I've acquired with the middle pin and I don't understand what it's about or how to deal with it or how to determine if it's "tight enough," or peened to the correct degree. What's the right way to deal with a razor's middle pin?

There may be other issues and problems with middle pins and this project. If you see any please advise me.

Thanks and happy shaves,

Jim
When they shortened the blade, the wedge no longer stopped the blade from going too far down. They then wrapped the pin with twine to make it into a bumper stop. The middle pin is to hold the spacer in place(there is a bushing/spacer under the twine). It is there for differing reasons I have heard. Spreading better, prevent warping, strengthening, rigidity, as a blade stop :)
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
Ah, you guys are the best.

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I see now exactly why the twine was added and understand the deal with the middle pin. Now I know how to better look at the various issues and non issues involved in my projects.

Thanks so much for helping me get this.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
My guess without having the razor in hand, would be that they put the twine on the third pin to shim the pin so that the edge could not go beyond the bottom of the scales. Normally the tang does not touch the third pin on razors that include it.

Perfectly answered, I forgot about answering the twine wrap.
 
When blade is closed, are the edge something like 2mm above the scale or does it stick out under?
If this razor is functional why swap blades?
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
Well, I gave it my best shot.

3.Holes.Pins..eBay.SR.640.1-24-19..jpeg


I broke these scales. The pin was exceedingly stubborn. The scales (plastic) cracked. Ruined for sure. I've successfully removed pins before but some attempts are bound to be unsuccessful. These scales would have worked great for the blade I had in mind for them, but mostly I bought the razor for its shorty blade.

What's worse than breaking those scales is this.

GoldenRuleCutlery.Peacock.CrOx.red&black.640.1-2-19JPG.JPG


I ruined these scales, too, I think. It was purely a mental mistake of the failure to measure twice before cutting once sort. It's possible I can save the scales but I doubt it. I'm not fooling with scales anymore today. I've done enough damage. This was a set of scales I really liked. Oh, well.


The good things are these.
  • I now have three blades needing scales. I like to make scales at least enough so I know I'll eventually make scales for all three blades. Not today though.
  • I figured out how to use my Dremel as a horizontal drill which means I can probably use it to drill fairly precisely the holes in the scales I make. I picked up the idea from the Billy Hukin video embedded above, a video loaded with great stuff including a few seconds of how the old timers drill holes in scales.
  • I was able to successfully tighten the loose blades in two razors needing tightening.
  • It was overall a learning experience for me.

Fancy.eBay.SR.640.1-24-19..jpeg


This 13/16" razor (new from eBay this week) had a very loose blade and wasn't useable. Now it's good to go with only a honing and a bit of easy polishing needed before I can shave with it.

I've long known I'm not the quickest study when it comes to doing some things with my hands, but I also know I can become very skilled at manual tasks, so I will persist in the various razor rehab interests I seem to have acquired.

Better luck to you in your projects of the weekend.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
The worse warped blades I’ve seen have been ones with third pins. I don’t like them. I have made some scales with faux pins. Flat collar and flat peen on the inside and from the outside it gives the look of the third pin.

SSA Scales


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
The worse warped blades I’ve seen have been ones with third pins. I don’t like them. I have made some scales with faux pins. Flat collar and flat peen on the inside and from the outside it gives the look of the third pin.
SSA Scales

Very nice looking. Thanks for sharing the technique for achieving the look.

Personally I would never go to that trouble, but it looks cool.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
Having spent much of last week trying and failing to save some Crown & Sword scales which I eventually accepted I'd wrecked, I feel your pain. Learning opportunity!
 

timwcic

"Look what I found"
Some of my most warped SR were also of 3 pin construction. I love the 3 pin look but hate when they get a attitude problem. A standard procedure for me, is to get rid of it. When ever I take one down, is to cut and peen inside. Instead of a dome peen, i keep it flat to reduce any interference with the blade. Pictures of two within reach

EC06F5B4-F831-4DB6-96C1-1DA7122C1F05.jpeg
7108596E-159C-4BC3-AA01-FEB916453730.jpeg
692DB499-922E-440A-85C7-84704650F286.jpeg
 
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