Method Verification

[Crazy8]

Man that title sounds so technical but not sure what else to call this. So here is the deal. I have been using a safety razor now for about 2 years and absolutely love it. I don't have to go broke buying overpriced blades and stuff. Recently the razor I was using was my father in-laws, and sadly had broke at the neck where it screws to the head. So I was pleased to tell my wife "Well now I have to buy that Merkur 34C I have had my eye on forever"

I have been using that now for about a month and love it more than the razor I have been using all this time. It's hard to explain other than it just shaves better. I also use Edwin Jagger aloe shave cream and then I finish with Nivea shave balm. There are still some things I feel I need to find out and/or improve on with my shaving. I just read that shave article, from the NY Post, posted in the sticky and it opened my eyes a little bit. When I shave, its after a hot steamy shower with a steam filled bathroom. I also do shave upward. Anyway here are some questions I have and some problems I am still seeing that I would like to eliminate. Here is my current shaving routine...

Routine
Get out of shower (I do run my face under the hot water in the shower)
Stand in front of sink and apply Edwin Jagger Aloe shave cream
Shave with Merkur 34C (ATG on face and neck (upward motion) and then, sometimes, from throat towards ears when doing my neck )
Fill sink with icy cold water and dunk entire face into sink for 30 seconds or more depending on breath.
Dab face off with towel and then apply Nivea Post Shave Balm
Admire shave job

Questions
1. Does the "shave with the grain" rule apply no matter what blade type you are using?
2. I have been using, and like, the Merkur blades. Should I still be using these style blades only 3 times as I did with my Mach 3's when I used to use those?
3. I have just purchased RazoRock Alum and Thayers Alcohol-Free Witch Hazel w/ Aloe Vera Toner. Now Im not sure of the order I should be doing everything for my post shave. So after I am done shaving...
3a. Do I still apply the Nivea Post Shave Balm?
3b. What should the order be? Alum then Witch Hazel (Nivea balm?), or Witch Hazel then Alum (Nivea balm?)?
4. Im thinking maybe my skin is kind of sensitive. After reading the article in the sticky I wrote down the "steps" the barber took when shaving the man and came up with this...
Hot Towel
Scented Oil
Hot Towel
Shaving Cream w/ brush
Hot Towel
Face Cream
Hot Towel
After Shave Balm
4a. Should this be what I do for my shave routine?
5. This is more of a statement than a question, I did order Edwin Jagger Hydrating Pre-Shave Lotion. I will see how well it works and if need be maybe try or upgrade to the Geo F Trumper Coral Skin Food and see how that works since it was mentioned in the article to be used with sensitive skin.

Problems
1. After I shave I tend to break out in zits a day or two later, is there anything I can do to stop this annoyance?

I hope I am not over complicating this but as I found out when I first got into shaving using a safety razor, one of the first things I learned and I'm sure many of us have learned is "you have been doing it all wrong, all these years." So I guess that's why so many questions. I want to make sure I resolve any issues I am having, get the best shave I can get, and do it right. Thank you all so much for the help and keep up the great work in this amazing forum.

 

[Mike H]

So you only shave against the grain (up)?

My shave typically goes like this; shower, dry off, soak my brush for a minute, gently squeeze the water out the brush, load with soap, wet face, face lather, shave with the grain, rinse face, re-lather, shave across the grain. Rinse, aftershave, done. If I have time, or feel I really need BBS, I will shave against the grain, but I found I get a really good shave with out having to go against the grain.

 

[clk]

Gradual hair reduction is the goal. First pass with the grain, 2nd pass across the grain, 3rd pass against the grain. Each pass reduces the amount of hair remaining. If there is too much beard remaining for the against the grain pass, irritation (and ingrown hairs or zits) can follow. Going against the grain on the first pass will usually result in razor burn and/or other forms of irritation, including ingrowns.

 

[Niles]

I don't go against the grain. My routine is warm water rinse, face lather, with the grain pass, then across the grain and touchups if needed, cool water rinse, aftershve splash.

 

[Crazy8]

Thank you guys so much for the info. I now have a few things to try. Now I have done 1st pass with the grain and 2nd pass against or in the case of my neck it would be 1st pass against and 2nd pass cross. But what you guys have mentioned does help some.

 

[Vercin]

also make sure you are using the right aftershave for your skin type .. dry or oily .. also the zits may be from "dirt" while freshly shaven i.e. high collar shirt rubbing on the neck .. I shave at night and the next day after i wash off i apply my after shave balm again and that works as some protection on the fresh shave. (especially if I have an "bad" irritating shave)

 

[Crazy8]

Thank you Vercin. So not to be a pain, but any thoughts on the other questions I posted such as the order of which I should be applying the different products and such?

Thanks again.

 

[Mike H]

1. Does the "shave with the grain" rule apply no matter what blade type you are using?
Generally, yes.

2. I have been using, and like, the Merkur blades. Should I still be using these style blades only 3 times as I did with my Mach 3's when I used to use those?
If you like them continue using them till you notice tugging or pulling. THen replace them. One you know how many shaves you get from a blade, then you can change out before they become a problem. I would still consider trying a few other blades (Derby, Astra Feather, Red Persona), just to see.

3. I have just purchased RazoRock Alum and Thayers Alcohol-Free Witch Hazel w/ Aloe Vera Toner. Now Im not sure of the order I should be doing everything for my post shave. So after I am done shaving...
After the final rinse, rub the alum on your face, let it sit for a minute and them rinse it off, then apply Witchhazel. I found the alum dried out my skin, but many love it. (YMMV)

3a. Do I still apply the Nivea Post Shave Balm?
You can apply it after the witch hazel dries, Nivea is great stuff, but I found it left my skin oily (YMMV)

3b. What should the order be? Alum then Witch Hazel (Nivea balm?), or Witch Hazel then Alum (Nivea balm?)?
Alum, Witch Hazel (Nivea balm)

 

[mblakele]

The break-outs might also be trapped hairs, causing inflammation as they grow out. If simply washing more does not help, try a little exfoliation. Do not exfoliate right before a shave, though: that can create new problems. But it sounds like it might help to exfoliate anywhere from 8-24 hours after your last shave and at least 8-12 hours before the next shave. Sometimes I do that in a very simple way: I face lather, but skip the shave.

 

[henrythehab]

You can use alum or witch hazel. You don't need both. Both are astringents and tend to have the same goal. It comes down to a matter of preference when deciding which to use.

Those are a lot of hot towel steps that you have listed. Depending on your skin type, too many hot towels can lead to irritation later.

It sounds like you are shaving ATG first. That may be too aggressive for your skin. Try WTG 1st, the ATG on the 2nd pass.

As a post shave, try the basics: rinse face with cold water, lightly pat face dry with towel, use alum or witch hazel on face, lightly pat face dry if necessary, then apply aftershave balm or lotion.

 

[Crazy8]

The break-outs might also be trapped hairs, causing inflammation as they grow out. If simply washing more does not help, try a little exfoliation. Do not exfoliate right before a shave, though: that can create new problems. But it sounds like it might help to exfoliate anywhere from 8-24 hours after your last shave and at least 8-12 hours before the next shave. Sometimes I do that in a very simple way: I face lather, but skip the shave.

Do you have any recommendations for a good exfoliant?

 

[mblakele]

Do you have any recommendations for a good exfoliant?

What works for me is to face lather, then skip the shave.

 

[Crazy8]

You can use alum or witch hazel. You don't need both. Both are astringents and tend to have the same goal. It comes down to a matter of preference when deciding which to use.

Those are a lot of hot towel steps that you have listed. Depending on your skin type, too many hot towels can lead to irritation later.

It sounds like you are shaving ATG first. That may be too aggressive for your skin. Try WTG 1st, the ATG on the 2nd pass.

As a post shave, try the basics: rinse face with cold water, lightly pat face dry with towel, use alum or witch hazel on face, lightly pat face dry if necessary, then apply aftershave balm or lotion.

Just the other night I did my regular routine but I did WTG first pass, then reapplied shaving cream and did ATG second pass. I am very happy with how smooth of a shave I got and so far no breakouts. I also have Edwin Jagger pre shave lotion, Witch Hazel, Alum, and to top it all off a nice stand for my Murker 34c. I think I have mentioned all of that but im a little excited to see how some of this stuff will help me.