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Mergress and bad razor burn

I don't get what you are saying; riding the guard is more of a scraping action, riding the cap is a shallower cutting action. I prefer neutral angle with the Progress, set about 3.5.

Normally, yes, but the Progress is actually a different type of setup. From what I recall it's actually an inverted razor designed to be used at a steep angle.
 
I do not have the Mergress (or Progress); but I do have a Parker Variant that has a similar design. On higher dial settings the razor can be highly aggressive, especially with a very sharp blade like a Feather.

The razor is head-heavy, so controlling shave pressure is more difficult than with most razors.

Because of the shape of the top cap, judging shave angle can be a challenge. For a shallow shave angle, the top cap will nearly touch your face.

You have tried a Feather blade, a blade that is very sharp. You have tried a Derby Extra, a rather dull blade. You might be better off with a mid-sharp blade. Although using dull blade might seem to make sense, if you are tempted to shave with pressure to compensate for the lack of sharpness, you may be counterproductive. In my Muhle R41, the Gillette 7 O'Clock Sharpedge Yellow blade is my favorite. It is mid-sharp and quite smooth. Thus, I can avoid irritation even in an aggressive razor as long as I minimize shave pressure and optimize shave angle.

Also, do not forget the importance of a great shave lather. Some soaps provide a much higher level of cushion/protection than others. My sensitive skin is subject to both razor burn and brush burn, so choosing the right soap is very important to achieving a close, comfortable shave.
 
Normally, yes, but the Progress is actually a different type of setup. From what I recall it's actually an inverted razor designed to be used at a steep angle.
What ia an inverted razor, never heard of that term? I use that razor and it works similar to a Gillette Slim adjustable. They can be used at any angle the user prefers but the neutral angle gives maximum blade exposure.
 
What ia an inverted razor, never heard of that term? I use that razor and it works similar to a Gillette Slim adjustable. They can be used at any angle the user prefers but the neutral angle gives maximum blade exposure.

It's been a while since I saw the article that mentioned that point, but from what I recall, the idea was that the correct way to use the razor was from the guard rather than the cap. If you look at the razor you can see obvious differences from other razors in that the base plate is much thicker than usual, and that the guards are shaped with an upwards curl. I think when you talk about a neutral angle you mean you are shaving with the head almost parallel to the ground, and that would be different than you would shave with almost any other razor since most razors would be fully scrapping the skin at that angle.

I also have a slim, but I've generally used that from a shallow angle.
 
I think when you talk about a neutral angle you mean you are shaving with the head almost parallel to the ground, and that would be different than you would shave with almost any other razor since most razors would be fully scrapping the skin at that angle.
No, actually the neutral angle relates to the blade and is when the cap and guard are in contact with the skin. That gives the most effective cutting angle for the blade; about 30 degrees to the skin surface. Hence I use the Progress at the neutral blade angle and the Slim Adjustable at setting 4, again at the neutral blade angle.
I don't use any razor at a steep angle but some at a shallow blade angle. The Fatip, for instance, I use at a shallow angle because it has a lot of blade exposure; some refer to it as riding the cap.
 
I am thinking the blade, some razors are not picky and work fine with any blade, and others are somewhat particular about blades, it might be the mergress is one of them, you say you have tried feather and derby blades, one is super sharp, the other leaves things to be desired in my experience, maybe try something mid spectrum, I would recomend to try a Gillette Silver Blue or Polsilver SI, top tier for me but really smooth blades
+1. On ##1-3 a GSB, Polsilver, Gillette Platinum or Voskhod will be great. The head bends the blade more than a vintage razor so a shallow angle and no pressure should deliver a smooth shave. Guys with heavy beards may need settings 4 and up but I started low and found a sweet spot at 2.5. Watch that the blade is even on both sides too.
 
No, actually the neutral angle relates to the blade and is when the cap and guard are in contact with the skin. That gives the most effective cutting angle for the blade; about 30 degrees to the skin surface. Hence I use the Progress at the neutral blade angle and the Slim Adjustable at setting 4, again at the neutral blade angle.
I don't use any razor at a steep angle but some at a shallow blade angle. The Fatip, for instance, I use at a shallow angle because it has a lot of blade exposure; some refer to it as riding the cap.

I've never heard of 30 degrees as neutral (although it might be called that) it seems to me that it's the normal angle when shaving at a shallow angle, but that was the angle I started with on the Progress and found that it wasn't as comfortable for me. I find mild razor work very well at that angle, but many of my aggressive razors I find steeper angles work better for me. It's all about personal feel!
 
Another attempt today. My chin grumbled at me most of the day. And I didn’t even get a close shave at all on my chin. I hear what everyone is saying about blades, razors and shave angles but here’s the thing. I can shave irritation free with a Merkur slant, a Gillette Slim or Fat Boy and even a Phoenix DOC. Derby blade. Feather blade. Doesn’t matter as far as comfort. Feather is just closer. But this razor has thrown me for a loop.
 
I've never heard of 30 degrees as neutral (although it might be called that) it seems to me that it's the normal angle when shaving at a shallow angle, but that was the angle I started with on the Progress and found that it wasn't as comfortable for me. I find mild razor work very well at that angle, but many of my aggressive razors I find steeper angles work better for me. It's all about personal feel!

Are you confusing blade angle and handle angle? Because the head of the razor bends the blades inside, a handle angle of 30 degrees to your face results blade angle around 45 degrees to the skin.That would be called riding the safety bar. In contrast, a handle angle somewhere around 45 degrees results an a blade angle of around 30 degrees, which would be a neutral angle. If you ride the cap, you might be able to get a blade angle even less than 30 degrees.

Those who shave with a straight razor normally shave WTG using a blade angle of 30 degrees. However, when shaving ATG, they use an even more shallow blade angle, normally between 15-20 degrees.
 
Are you confusing blade angle and handle angle? Because the head of the razor bends the blades inside, a handle angle of 30 degrees to your face results blade angle around 45 degrees to the skin.That would be called riding the safety bar. In contrast, a handle angle somewhere around 45 degrees results an a blade angle of around 30 degrees, which would be a neutral angle. If you ride the cap, you might be able to get a blade angle even less than 30 degrees.

Those who shave with a straight razor normally shave WTG using a blade angle of 30 degrees. However, when shaving ATG, they use an even more shallow blade angle, normally between 15-20 degrees.

That's probably the case I haven't been around in a couple of years so probably forgetting the terminology and specification. The progress does have a more severe curvature so the angle for shaving should be different and also would change with setting as well.
 
I don’t believe the adjustment impacts the blade curvature on the Progress, only the blade gap changes. That’s one thing that makes a Progress different from other adjustables like the vintage Gillette’s. Ultimately, yes, I think my issue here is blade angle, especially on my chin.
 
I don’t believe the adjustment impacts the blade curvature on the Progress, only the blade gap changes. That’s one thing that makes a Progress different from other adjustables like the vintage Gillette’s. Ultimately, yes, I think my issue here is blade angle, especially on my chin.

Keep us posted on your progress (not actually a pun ;)). You'll get it soon. I found it to shave more smoothly at the higher settings oddly so you might want to try playing with the aggressiveness as well and see if that works for you.
 
Finally. Had a decent shave today and only minor irritation. Face feels fine this evening which has not been the case most of this week. I used a fresh Astra blade. Dialed it back to 1 1/2. Face lathered Trumpers Violet. This is my go to routine when I want a really cushioning lather. I quit worrying about “more parallel to the face“, “on the cap or on the guard”, “low angle vs high angle” and just shaved with an angle that just felt like it was cutting and not scraping. I’m going to repeat all this until I get this dialed in better. Thanks for the advice guys. I’ve really had to go back to basics here.
 
And even better today. Face lathered my last dab of Palmolive Classic. That stuff is really slick and cushioning. Changed my grip to just about 1 1/2” or so below the head, right about at the balance point but still handle heavy if that makes sense. Focused on a very light touch and an angle that was just cutting. Four passes except the chin which was just three. A few cleanups and done. Face was just a little irritated around lunchtime. A little moisturizer took care of it. Maybe I’m turning the corner.
 
Likely the irritation is now just residual from previous shaves and in a few days it will be gone. If you take a day or two off it should really subside quickly and then you'll know how well your technique has progressed.
 
That's probably the case I haven't been around in a couple of years so probably forgetting the terminology and specification. The progress does have a more severe curvature so the angle for shaving should be different and also would change with setting as well.
Agreed, I just have a hard time taking a day off from shaving, especially with a new razor in the den. Ha ha. Today went really well. Face lathered Olivian Bourbon and Cedar. Again, a slick lather. Took my time. Very, very little irritation hours later. So, I’m thinking one of my issues was my lather. I think I’d gotten sloppy with scuttle lather that wasn‘t as slick as it should have been. I guess the open comb razor I was using previously let me get away with that. The Progress had other ideas.
 
The solution is one or more of the following:

Different angle
Less pressue
Different brand of blade
Lower setting or lowest setting
Lather that is more cushiony
Preshave oil or lather.
Reduce the number of strokes
Examine the razor for damage or misalignment
 
Nailed it today! Dialed up to 2. Face lathered Palmolive. Not BBS yet but DFS. Seems it was my lather.
 
Looks like you have it down and you'll really enjoy getting to know the higher setting if you want the BBS. It really is a very smooth aggressive razor.
 
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