Measurements and calibration of the Merkur Progress

[cpcohen1945]

I figured I'd check what the gap adjustment range is, on my old-mold Merkur Progress. (I'd be happy if someone would check a "new mold" Progress -- it has much smaller markings for aligning the top cap with the correct edge of the baseplate.)

First, there's a good description of "zero-ing" or "calibrating" a Progress, buried deep in the "Comments", here:



It reads:

Jeff Hall says

APRIL 6, 2014 AT 3:01 PM

Hello Mark,
great post as always. The one thing that you have not addressed is the fact that you can “zero” your Merkur Progress. What do I mean by this?
All of the threads on the adjustable shaft of the Progress are the same, but is the base setting dot directly above the +, or somewhere else? How do I “zero” my Progress?
“My Way”
1) Have no blade in your Progress and tighten it down to where it stops. If the setting is not where the + aligns directly below the dot, then you need to adjust it.
2) Loosen your Progress two complete turns, and grab the shaving head firmly.
3) Turn the handle, only while gripping the head, in the proper direction so as to align the dot with the +. This may take a few tries before you succeed. You need to re-tighten it each adjustment to see if it lines up properly.
4) Once the + aligns with the dot, you now have a “zero’d” razor. Now reinstall your blade.
I use this as a “baseline zero” due to the fact that I use between two and three different blades, depending on how my facial skin condition is. This way I have a definite setting, and can adjust the blade’s aggressiveness depending on which blade I am using.
For instance, with a Feather blade, I use setting 4, and with a Merkur blade, I use setting 5. Both settings could be exactly the same angle of the blade, but depending on the thickness of the blade, it’s flexibilty, and sharpness, I get a completely different shave.
However you wish to “zero” your Progress is up to you, but this is my own general guideline.

Once I did that (with the dial set to "1", with the top cap tight, and a Feather blade), I measured the vertical gap, from the safety bar, to the edge of the blade:

. . . it was 0.40 mm

That's typical for a mild razor, I believe. (My Gillette Tech measures 0.45 mm, my Lupo Al measures 0.40 mm, my EJ89 measures 0.50 mm.)

The thread pitch, on the screw that adjusts the cap height, is 0.80 mm per turn. (It's a 5 x 0.80 mm thread -- you can screw a razor handle to it.)

So, if you turn the knob to "5.5", you should get a gap of:

. . . 0.40 + ( 0.80 * 4.5/5 )

. . . = 1.12 mm

That's well into "aggressive" territory -- and you can get _a whole second turn of the adjustment knob_, before the top cap starts to loosen. That would bring you near 2.0mm.

I think, next time somebody asks "What second razor should I buy?", my answer will be:

. . . "Unless you have a really good reason to reject it, get a Progress."

I won't mention what I own myself, of course.

. Charles

 

[ivan_101]

Would you please specify what exactly is the measured gap @5 of your old mould Progress. Not calculated by the formula, but what you actually measured @5. I remember someone measured an old Progress at around 0.95mm at the 5 position.

 

[cpcohen1945]

Actual measurements:

i'm using a set of feeler gauges, held horizontally (at right angles to the handle), with a Feather blade.
:
Dial at "1" -- fully closed: 0.45 mm

Dialg at "5" -- 1.13 mm

. Charles

 

[Medivh]

Mine was ok, but I somehow managed to pull the knob out and ever since when I tighten the knob to the maximum it stays on 5 instead on + if we assume that the + is the ''0'' setting or how it should be.

 

[cpcohen1945]

You can "re-zero" the razor by twisting the base plate on the handle. See my first post -- the long, cut-off comment by Jeff Hall.

The minimum gap is set by the physical design of the razor head. It doesn't really matter what the ring shows, when the cap is tightened all the wayknob is tight. Whatever number the ring shows, when the knob is tight and the cap is pulled all the way down --

. . . treat that as "+", just below 1.

. Charles

 

[nav]

Progress...the smoothest and easiest razor to achieve a glass-like BBS!!

I can't believe the original design is from 1955!

It beats all the ~80 razors I've used over the last 14 years.

 

[AlgebraicMirror]

Progress...the smoothest and easiest razor to achieve a glass-like BBS!!

I can't believe the original design is from 1955!

It beats all the ~80 razors I've used over the last 14 years.

Is the Parker Variant a pretty good replica of the feel of the Progress? I've tried a Variant, and if that's close to a Progress then I think the Merkur Futur has it beat. The Ming Shi 2000s (Chinese Futur clone) has been my exclusive preference for the last several years.

 

[nav]

Is the Parker Variant a pretty good replica of the feel of the Progress? I've tried a Variant, and if that's close to a Progress then I think the Merkur Futur has it beat. The Ming Shi 2000s (Chinese Futur clone) has been my exclusive preference for the last several years.

I honestly like the way the progress shaves better than the variant.

I no longer have the variant but still have two of the Progress (one is dedicated for travel).

 

[Two Tonic]

You can "re-zero" the razor by twisting the base plate on the handle. See my first post -- the long, cut-off comment by Jeff Hall.

The minimum gap is set by the physical design of the razor head. It doesn't really matter what the ring shows, when the cap is tightened all the wayknob is tight. Whatever number the ring shows, when the knob is tight and the cap is pulled all the way down --

. . . treat that as "+", just below 1.

. Charles

Maybe, maybe not.

On some, the handle simply does not turn; the plastic knob turns, but not the main shaft of the handle.

But I don't see how turning the handle shaft really solves the alignment issue.

Wouldn't it be simpler to pull the bottom of the handle off and re-insert it with the settings properly aligned?

Removing it is easy. To reinsert it, you need to make sure to slide down the compression ring toward the center of the handle, push it together a bit, then push the handle back on with the "1" or the "+" mark aligned with the dot on the handle.

The 34C uses the same basic compression ring principle to remove and to reinstall the handle. If you use shaving soap with lanolin, sooner or later you are going to want to disassemble the handle to clean off the accumulated soap scum.

Or, if you don't want to mess with the razor assembly, just put a dot of nail polish on the handle where the "1" zeroes in.