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Making Segal Blades

What are those called and where'd you get them?

Thanks,

Jim
They are jeweler's scissors. These are ACE brand from Amazon, I paid $13, but they are temporarily out of stock now. There are a few that will work, just make sure they can cut medium hard metal at about 20 gauge.

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Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
They are jeweler's scissors. These are ACE brand from Amazon, I paid $13, but they are temporarily out of stock now. There are a few that will work, just make sure they can cut medium hard metal at about 20 gauge.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Thanks.

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I found and purchased a similar item on Amazon, but with a curved blade. The scissors I've been using are okay, but not great, but I like their curved blade. I hope these are more heavy duty, and it sounds like they probably are.


Schaeffer.HintOfBlade.640.6-18.JPG


I'd use my Segal (actually a Schaeffer) a lot more if making the blades were easier.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
On a semi - off-topic subject, but similar blade modification. I was modifying blades for cooper, widening out the center post, and it was twice as infuriating as the segal mod. I stabbed myself with the scissors three times and the blade fragment decided to embed itself in my finger the last screw-up. When you cut a little, it tends to want to just split the whole blade to the edge.

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I've read that you can force a blade on, but it didn't fit for me. I'll have to look again.
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[TLDR]
Has anyone tried using a cold chisel?
It may not cut cleanly, but it should at least crease it or thin it out for cutting with snips or scissors.

Or... try using a Fendrihan Scientist razor with the Mk1 head. I've broken two Feather blades and cracked an Astra SP in exactly the same place, and I think it may be the Mk1 head that pinches or stresses the blade somehow.
A wee bit too small though, I think.
 
I just force them.
On a semi - off-topic subject, but similar blade modification. I was modifying blades for cooper, widening out the center post, and it was twice as infuriating as the segal mod. I stabbed myself with the scissors three times and the blade fragment decided to embed itself in my finger the last screw-up. When you cut a little, it tends to want to just split the whole blade to the edge.

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I've read that you can force a blade on, but it didn't fit for me. I'll have to look again.
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I just put it a new blade, looks close enough for jazz. I've had good shaves from the Cooper.

I've been known, at times, to make things harder than they are under the delusion of being clever :a34:, haha. Is your blade alignment relative to the tips parallel? Mine seems to be off slightly, I'll see if I can snap a picture close up.
 
I'm getting something like this, close? Or no dice? It wasn't too extreme, but noticeable to me. I just pressed this one on, worked no problem, but the same slant.
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That don't look right. Mine is reasonably straight.

Hmm, I think we have happened upon my malfunction. It is possible that I may **NEED** to look for a nicer specimen. ha:jump:

It is weird though as the razor itself looks to be in good condition. No stress marks or bent anything and the center post fits snugly in the base plate hole.

Thank you for the help, I'd be just tearing up my face not knowing it wasn't designed that way.
 
I'm bumping this old thread.

Whenever there is a thread on the Segal - we all talk the blade issue. This is how I solved it.

I own a CNC rotary engraving machine.

Its a two piece puzzle.

The first piece is the digital file that the engraving program can read.

I started with a picture of a Segal Blade, imported it into CorelDraw and traced the shape of the cut. I then converted that to a Vector, which in turn gets pulled into the engraving program.

The second piece is the jig that is going to hold the blade.
DE Blades are flimsy so you need something to clamp them down, but at the same time must not be in the way of the cutting head and you can't use the center section

I took a piece of mild steel and drilled & tapped the 4 holes which correspond to where the tabs are. I used steel as opposed to aluminium because I was going to tighten the bolts for each blade. It turns out that you can't do more than one at a time. The white piece of material is a piece of engravable plastic and is there to protect the jig from been damaged.

Once I had both pieces of the puzzle, I then needed to sort out the dimensions in the program and line everything up.

The top of the picture shows the various pieces of the jig and the bottom shows it all assembled, with a completed Segal blade.

When I recently got my Myatt Adjustable, I only had to make the digital file.

Its not a speedy process, so I do a decent batch at a time.




Blade Engraving Jig.jpg
 
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