Making My First Set of Scales (timber)

[rbscebu]

A while ago @aussie gave me an old scaleless Cadman "Bengall" that was excess to his requirements. That was reported on here.

With that SR blade, I reprofiled the point to the French style, shortening the edge length by about 10mm, and gave it a bit of a cleanup. The blade's pivot pin hole was rather rectangular in shape, about 3mm x 3.5mm, so I filled it with JB Weld epoxy and drilled a new 1.6mm hole.

I found some Queensland silver ash timber (flindersia bourjotiana) hidden away. It is a timber I enjoyed working with when building racing sailing dinghies in my youth. Knowing its properties, I decided to use this timber for the blade's scales.

I designed the scales' profile to suit the blade, stuck two pieces of the timber together and cut it out to my design. I then used my Dremel drill press to drill the 1.6mm diameter pivot pin hole. With that done, I then sanded the scales to my liking. Each scale is 3mm thick. I could have made them thinner but that would have upset the SR's overall balance. Here is where I am now at.

​

Am I now right to separate the two scales and fit the blade?

Due to the mass of the scales and the blade, I will be using a lead tapered wedge to better balance the finished SR at about the pivot pin. For this wedge, I have a lead fishing sinker that I will cold forge.

Once finished, I will probably sell this SR on B&B as a shave-ready vintage SR for a beginner into the gentlemanly art.

 

[Legion]

A while ago @aussie gave me an old scaleless Cadman "Bengall" that was excess to his requirements. That was reported on here.

With that SR blade, I reprofiled the point to the French style, shortening the edge length by about 10mm, and gave it a bit of a cleanup. The blade's pivot pin hole was rather rectangular in shape, about 3mm x 3.5mm, so I filled it with JB Weld epoxy and drilled a new 1.6mm hole.

I found some Queensland silver ash timber (flindersia bourjotiana) hidden away. It is a timber I enjoyed working with when building racing sailing dinghies in my youth. Knowing its properties, I decided to use this timber for the blade's scales.

I designed the scales' profile to suit the blade, stuck two pieces of the timber together and cut it out to my design. I then used my Dremel drill press to drill the 1.6mm diameter pivot pin hole. With that done, I then sanded the scales to my liking. Each scale is 3mm thick. I could have made them thinner but that would have upset the SR's overall balance. Here is where I am now at.

View attachment 1575297
​

Am I now right to separate the two scales and fit the blade?

Due to the mass of the scales and the blade, I will be using a lead tapered wedge to better balance the finished SR at about the pivot pin. For this wedge, I have a lead fishing sinker that I will cold forge.

Once finished, I will probably sell this SR on B&B as a shave-ready vintage SR for a beginner into the gentlemanly art.

Looks pretty good. I like to drill the hole at the wedge end as well before separating the scales. Actually, I like to drill both holes before shaping and rounding the scales, so I know they are sitting perfectly flat on the drill press, but still, drill with the scales together so you know the holes will line up.

 

[rbscebu]

Looks pretty good. I like to drill the hole at the wedge end as well before separating the scales. Actually, I like to drill both holes before shaping and rounding the scales, so I know they are sitting perfectly flat on the drill press, but still, drill with the scales together so you know the holes will line up.

Thank you for the guidance. I drilled the pivot-pin hole in the scales before shaping. I also thought about also drilling the wedge-pin hole then but decided it wasn't that critical so could be drilled later.

I will drill the wedge-pin hole before I split the scales.

 

[rbscebu]

After drilling the wedge-pin hole, I split the scales and removed the three spots of glue and paper in between. I then applied beeswax and polished four times on all surfaces. This has given the scales a lovely warm semi-gloss finish.

Next was to pin the blade to the scales. I chose nickle alloy for the pins as that is what Cadman normally uses on his Bengalls. Only having domed collars in nickle alloy and used them. I am not to fussed on domed collars, feeling that they make the pinning look a little bulky. I also fitted 1.6mm clear nylon washers between the blade's shank and the scales. This was to help stop the timber wearing with use. Here is where I am now.

​

The blade looks a little wide in the photos. This is because it has been shortened by about 10mm to about 60mm. The blade width is still about 19mm, a 6/8 blade.

Tomorrow I will start cold forging my lead sinker to make the wedge. If all goes well, I should have this SR ready for shaving for Friday morning. I am looking forward to seeing how it behaves.

 

[Legion]

After drilling the wedge-pin hole, I split the scales and removed the three spots of glue and paper in between. I then applied beeswax and polished four times on all surfaces. This has given the scales a lovely warm semi-gloss finish.

Next was to pin the blade to the scales. I chose nickle alloy for the pins as that is what Cadman normally uses on his Bengalls. Only having domed collars in nickle alloy and used them. I am not to fussed on domed collars, feeling that they make the pinning look a little bulky. I also fitted 1.6mm clear nylon washers between the blade's shank and the scales. This was to help stop the timber wearing with use. Here is where I am now.

View attachment 1575341

View attachment 1575340
​

The blade looks a little wide in the photos. This is because it has been shortened by about 10mm to about 60mm. The blade width is still about 19mm, a 6/8 blade.

Tomorrow I will start cold forging my lead sinker to make the wedge. If all goes well, I should have this SR ready for shaving for Friday morning. I am looking forward to seeing how it behaves.

It's probably not super important, but normally I pin the wedge end first, and get that all squared away before pinning the razor. If something goes wrong at the wedge it is easier to sort it before there is a blade involved. Also, it is better/ easier to pin the wedge, then bend the scales a little to the blade, rather than the other way around. More leverage, if that makes sense.

One handy thing to own is a set of little nuts and bolts from microfasteners. That way you can mock it all up to check the fit and alignment before you commit to pinning anything.

 

[rbscebu]

It's probably not super important, but normally I pin the wedge end first, and get that all squared away before pinning the razor. If something goes wrong at the wedge it is easier to sort it before there is a blade involved. Also, it is better/ easier to pin the wedge, then bend the scales a little to the blade, rather than the other way around. More leverage, if that makes sense.

One handy thing to own is a set of little nuts and bolts from microfasteners. That way you can mock it all up to check the fit and alignment before you commit to pinning anything.

I thought about microfasteners but decided against getting some for this project. My reasoning was that they would take a few weeks to get to me and that people have been scaling SRs for a couple of centuries without needing them.

If I get further into scales making, I will probably get some. For this project, all seems to be coming together nicely.

As for fitting the wedge pin first, I will give that a go on the next set of scales I may make.

 

[Legion]

I thought about microfasteners but decided against getting some for this project. My reasoning was that they would take a few weeks to get to me and that people have been scaling SRs for a couple of centuries without needing them.

If I get further into scales making, I will probably get some. For this project, all seems to be coming together nicely.

As for fitting the wedge pin first, I will give that a go on the next set of scales I may make.

Yep. All’s well that ends well.

My comments and suggestions are more directed to future readers who have not yet started the project, but might be reading this thread for advise.

If they can get this info before they start it might make things that
much easier.

 

[rbscebu]

For those following this thread, the only power tool used in the making of these scales was a Dremel with drill press to drill the pin holes. All other work is done by hand.

Timber was prepared using a hand saw and plane. Scale profile was cut out using a hand jigsaw. All sanding, waxing and polishing was done by hand.

 

[aussie]

For those following this thread, the only power tool used in the making of these scales was a Dremel with drill press to drill the pin holes. All other work is done by hand.

Timber was prepared using a hand saw and plane. Scale profile was cut out using a hand jigsaw. All sanding, waxing and polishing was done by hand.

Well I have to say that I am impressed with your result. It seems that you must have spent many hours sanding this for I recall there was significant pitting.

I am still seeing plenty of Bengall razors on the bay, and I have a few more in stock. So hit me up if you need some more.

 

[HazMat Shaver]

@Legion has given some great pointers. And what you have made has turned out looking good. I welcome the finished product pics. The biggest issue I see so far was pinning the pivot first. Getting the wedge to be pinned tight without any gaps between the wedge and the scales could be a challenge.

The thickness is very close to what I like to do. I shoot for 0.08" just a bit thinner than what you went with but close enough. I also drill both holes before shaping. After a rough shape, I drill both then shape the scales "CLOSE" to what I want. Then cut a wedge about the right size before pulling it apart. Work the wedge to the proper wedge shape then bolt the wedge end together and finish shaping so the scales and wedge are finished at once together.

You are doing well. Keep it up. Normally folks make very bulky clunky scales on the first try. This includes me too.

 

[lloydw]

Good work - I’m looking forward to seeing your final results.

If I can ask those here - exactly what fasteners do you use? I’ve seen numerous references to micrifasteners as temporary fixers - to get everything lined up, before the pinning. Sounds reasonable to me. Will someone share exactly what is used please?

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

All good advice above, but I find it much easier and less frustrating to assemble, if you make your design on paper. Trace the blade and draw or trace the scale over the drawing of the blade.

Paper templates allows you to design the wedge, so you can determine the correct placement, thickness, taper and where the blade will sit between the scales. Make all your mistakes on paper, they are easier to fix.

Glue the paper template, with pin holes and spacer marked on to the scale material. Glue scales together with scotch double sick wrapping tape, easy to disassemble.

Drilling your holes perfectly straight is critical for blade alignment, drilling while the material is flat, before shaping give you the best chance at perfect alignment. If alignment is off, you can drill the hole a bit larger and massage the alignment, but this is where Mock-up bolts pay huge dividends.

If you do nothing else, buy or make a set of mock-up bolts, they will save you a lot of frustration.

Mock-up bolts used to be sold on eBay or make a set from Micro Fasteners 1/16th inch bolts and nuts. Thread on 3 or 4 nuts and super glue them together, wax the bolt thread first. I made a couple years ago, but the eBay ones are nicer. Mock-up bolts allow you to perfectly center the blade before you pin.

The importance of the wedge is often overlooked. I too make most wedge from lead, (Auto wheel weights). Make the wedge over size, pin the wedge side first and do not trim until the pin side is pinned tight and you are satisfied with the alignment. If you do not glue the wedge, you will have a bit of adjustment. It is a bit more fiddly, but a soft eraser between the scales makes pinning the wedge pin easier.

1/16 in thrust washer makes the pivot a bit thick. Thick scales and bulky collars make razors difficult to strop and shave. Make brass thrust washer from Micro Fasteners, Wide washers, just smash with a hammer on an anvil and re drill the hole, or make PETE, clear plastic washers from a ¼ inch paper punch and 1/16th in leather punch. They allow smooth operation but hold position well and last forever without oxidizing and staining.

Next time try horn, it is much easier to work and shape as you can scrape to shape, instead of sanding. It comes in a variety of colors and patterns and is easy to finish to a high gloss or satin finish.

The good news is materials are inexpensive and worst case you can unpin and repair or make a new set.

I like that you just jump in and do stuff, there are many good scale making post on various threads, Google (How to make a traditional set of horn scales ... the way I do it.) for an excellent step by step tutorial with great photo documentation.

Rock on RBS

 

[HazMat Shaver]

At Microfateners I bought...
Hex Bolts 0-80, 3/4" #HBB0012

From that you can figure out nuts and washers.

Then there are these cool bolts you can buy on eBay that are much easier to use. See the one out of the container.

But as you can see I have a few different sizes and colors and used and new wedges and.... Straight razor parts from over the years. BTW, This is just my go-to holder. I have a few boxes of parts nowadays.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

Good work - I’m looking forward to seeing your final results.

If I can ask those here - exactly what fasteners do you use? I’ve seen numerous references to micrifasteners as temporary fixers - to get everything lined up, before the pinning. Sounds reasonable to me. Will someone share exactly what is used please?

I believe what I ordered was 0-80 machine screws in 3/4" length, and 0-80 hexnuts. I can look and see if I can find the invoice in my email to get the part numbers if you need. Those are a little smaller than 1/16" so there should be enough play if you've drilled for 1/16" rod stock.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

Also FWB0 are brass flat washers that work for collars, and the FWBW0 are wider (same ID) and will work as internal washers if you're so inclined.

 

[lloydw]

Thank you that helps - my brain works in mm which doesn’t help either - I’ll look for those

 

[lloydw]

At Microfateners I bought...
Hex Bolts 0-80, 3/4" #HBB0012

From that you can figure out nuts and washers.

Then there are these cool bolts you can buy on eBay that are much easier to use. See the one out of the container.

View attachment 1575527

View attachment 1575528


But as you can see I have a few different sizes and colors and used and new wedges and.... Straight razor parts from over the years. BTW, This is just my go-to holder. I have a few boxes of parts nowadays.

That’s a lot of scale accessories

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Invest in a Dapping Doming block, about $15-20. You do not need a lot of doming holes, I only usually use 2 sizes. The more larger holes, the more expensive they are. Then you can dome your own Micro Fastener washers to make domed collars. A domed collar will tighten up on the scale without over tightening and expanding the pin, that can cause cracking.

It will also keep the pivot under tension, acting like a spring. You can then make custom and stacked collars, and they look more finished.

Pre polish before assembly by making a mandrel, bolt and couple of nuts, chuck in a Dremel or hand drill and polish on any good metal polish and paper towel.

I drill both pivot and wedge pin holes to 5/64th inch and taper the hole with a tapered diamond burr to give the pin a bit of room to expand from the head down. I first drill a 1/16th inch hole enlarge with a 5/64 in a pin vise and taper with the Diamond burr also in a pin vise.

This also give a bit of wiggle room

These little details give you every advantage, do not cost a lot or take a lot of time.

 

[Frank Shaves]

Nice job! 3 mm is a great thickness!

sr_manufacture on eBay sells the most excellent miniature bolts/screws that @HazMat Shaver posted.

Not sure about the Bengalls, but the old Sheffields were made with rectangular, punched holes that had a little play:

 

[Gamma]

I like wood scales, these look good.
I usually set the wedge pin first.
I keep a handful of old scales around to use as templates.
I use 2 sided tape when shaping.