Magic hands!
Beautiful work.
- Thread starter
- #23
R
romsitsa
- Thread starter
- #24
R
romsitsa
Hello all! Finished a slim handle for the non adjustable (needed less counterweight as the head is lighter) and made a small stand for the adjustable. The later has a brass/aluminum adjusting knob (knurled ring also provided by Rick) so wanted to minimise the chance of galvanic corrosion, you know, just in case. With the use of the stand, moisture should be kept away from the “dial”.
The adjustable works as a Wilkinson Empire or Pall Mall, turning the screw on the back moves the safety bar back and forth, increasing blade gap and distance between blades edge and bar.
It can move roughly 3 mm-s, from no safety bar to no blade, without settings.
The little hole on the bottom of the nut has no function, it’s a repurposed pice that came this way.
I use both held flat against my face, they are smooth, but pretty effective, with constant blade feel as the safety bars are close to the blades edge. The base plates are rather thick, so I curved up the bar instead of the more usual curved down design.
The only drawback is that the corners of the blade have to be rounded down before use, as there are no blade stops and I’m rather careless, so the corner can scrape/cut.
The blade is simply loaded by hand from the left side, the spine and friction of the head (like a money clip) holds it in place. An interesting “feature” is that I can load the blades only with the “GEM” side up, like the spine is somehow asymmetric.
Adam
The adjustable works as a Wilkinson Empire or Pall Mall, turning the screw on the back moves the safety bar back and forth, increasing blade gap and distance between blades edge and bar.
It can move roughly 3 mm-s, from no safety bar to no blade, without settings.
The little hole on the bottom of the nut has no function, it’s a repurposed pice that came this way.
I use both held flat against my face, they are smooth, but pretty effective, with constant blade feel as the safety bars are close to the blades edge. The base plates are rather thick, so I curved up the bar instead of the more usual curved down design.
The only drawback is that the corners of the blade have to be rounded down before use, as there are no blade stops and I’m rather careless, so the corner can scrape/cut.
The blade is simply loaded by hand from the left side, the spine and friction of the head (like a money clip) holds it in place. An interesting “feature” is that I can load the blades only with the “GEM” side up, like the spine is somehow asymmetric.
Adam
- Thread starter
- #25
R
romsitsa
Got the oppurtunity to test a Streamline, my non-adjustable has a similar perfomance (not counting lack of blade stops and weight difference), most likely caused by the short bar on both.
Adam
Adam
i wish i had the tools and skill to make a razor like that very nice
- Thread starter
- #28
R
romsitsa
Just give it a go, worst case you will learn how not to do it. The tools used to create these were nothing special, a drill, vice, files, hammer, a Dremel type multitool and a heat gun.
Adam
- Thread starter
- #29
R
romsitsa
It was most likely a micrometer case, made of pine, but the end result is quite similar to plum. Interior is velvet with leather loops.
Adam
Adam
- Thread starter
- #30
R
romsitsa
Hello!
It’s more of a mod than a full build. A Single ring type flat head modified to accept half DE and injector blades. Injectors are only theoretic, as I don’t have one at hand, but a 0.25 mm brass “blade” fits perfectly, so it should work.
The pivoting screw was scratched from an Old type cap, handle will be cut down under the neck and it will receive a new one. Blade locating pins were cut down to streamline the head.
It’s pretty blade forward, much to my liking.
Adam
It’s more of a mod than a full build. A Single ring type flat head modified to accept half DE and injector blades. Injectors are only theoretic, as I don’t have one at hand, but a 0.25 mm brass “blade” fits perfectly, so it should work.
The pivoting screw was scratched from an Old type cap, handle will be cut down under the neck and it will receive a new one. Blade locating pins were cut down to streamline the head.
It’s pretty blade forward, much to my liking.
Adam
- Thread starter
- #31
R
romsitsa
Finalised the handle and cut down a GEM to test a rigid blade. It’s a perfect blend of smooth and direct with a hint of easy to manoeuvre.
Adam
Adam
Nice! These razor projects are awesome.
By the way, with regard to dulling the corners of a GEM blade, it can be done very simply and quickly by just dragging the corners down your bathroom mirror right before loading the blade. A little trick I learned from straight razor shaving.
By the way, with regard to dulling the corners of a GEM blade, it can be done very simply and quickly by just dragging the corners down your bathroom mirror right before loading the blade. A little trick I learned from straight razor shaving.
What beautiful razors! Congratulations.
The only thing I like better than your work is your "Give it a go." attitude. That's the attitude that makes such great work possible.
Thanks for posting your work!
The only thing I like better than your work is your "Give it a go." attitude. That's the attitude that makes such great work possible.
Thanks for posting your work!
- Thread starter
- #34
R
romsitsa
Thank you. Actually making/restoring them is more fun than using/collecting. Think this is exactly why scale modelling was a dead end for me.
Adam
Adam
