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Lupo stainless?

Not fond of the idea about mixed metals .

Fair enough.

I'm not a materials engineer or chemist: are there issues with corrosion caused between these dissimilar metals, when combined with soap/water?
I know that Al can corrode in certain situations, especially when in contact with bare-steel and/or concrete;
but thought Ti was pretty darn stable...
 
Ti is the “noblest” of the materials
used at razor manufacturing ,
so parts made of titanium will
not have any galvanic corrosion issues,
when in contact with different metal.
But threads made of stainless steel ,
due to repeated abrasion (sliding) are
not in passive state but rather
in the active state ,so stainless steel
threads can be attacked by galvanic corrosion,when coupled with titanium
threads ,for example.It won’t be noticeable for many years ,but gradually the ss threads will eventually
fail.
 

Ron R

I survived a lathey foreman
I'm not a materials engineer or chemist: are there issues with corrosion caused between these dissimilar metals, when combined with soap/water?
I know that Al can corrode in certain situations, especially when in contact with bare-steel and/or concrete;
but thought Ti was pretty darn stable...
I would not worry a lot about stainless on stainless or copper & brass to stainless. @SCh5 is correct with certain dissimilar metals like Steel (ferrous) handle to stainless. Steel coated handle will contaminate stainless steel and will imbed itself and stain the stainless and it will rust in that area of contact. When storing razors make sure your stainless is not touching anything of iron(razor ferrous steel racks) IMO.
Another thing folks should know stainless and titanium are more prone to galling and if the thread feels not right stop and remove handle because you will regret if it galls. I worked in a pulp mill(23.5 yrs) and we used stainless fasteners on a lot of equipment and we used Loctite anti-seize all time to try and prevent galling. Titanium is one of the worse metals for galling(soft alloy) so a little lubricant on the threads like Vaseline(common in bathrooms) every once in a while will prevent problems. I use to machine titanium pump shafts and make special titanium bolts to secure impellor to shafts, titanium will take the harshest environments with chemicals and because of the hard oxides it produces to protect its surface. There are different grades of Titanium and stainless steels so it just gets complicated for shaving> KeepItSimpleShaving.
 
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Ron R

I survived a lathey foreman
I would not worry a lot about stainless on stainless or copper & brass to stainless. @SCh5 is correct with certain dissimilar metals like Steel (ferrous) handle to stainless. Steel coated handle will contaminate stainless steel and will imbed itself and stain the stainless and it will rust in that area of contact. When storing razors make sure your stainless is not touching anything of iron(razor ferrous steel racks) IMO.
Another thing folks should know stainless and titanium are more prone to galling and if the thread feels not right stop and remove handle because you will regret if it galls. I worked in a pulp mill(23.5 yrs) and we used stainless fasteners on a lot of equipment and we used Loctite anti-seize all time to try and prevent galling. Titanium is one of the worse metals for galling(soft alloy) so a little lubricant on the threads like Vaseline(common in bathrooms) every once in a while will prevent problems. I use to machine titanium pump shafts and make special titanium bolts to secure impellor to shafts, titanium will take the harshest environments with chemicals and because of the hard oxides it produces to protect its surface. There are different grades of Titanium and stainless steels so it just gets complicated for shaving> KeepItSimpleShaving.
Forgot to add for those fellows who use Carbon steel blades in your stainless steel razors, remove the blade after use and rinse razor well (better to use stainless steel blades in your stainless razors). If you do not you will soon learn what happens to stainless and ferrous steel. Not easy to remove staining if you have tried already!
 
Liked my shave today with the Lupo & Feather. I will say that I’ve generally gotten my best shaves with Feathers on subsequent shaves between 2-5 (Feathers are done for me at about 4 to 5 shaves tops). Today it was really good as the Feather will show a bit of initial harshness yet, with the Lupo it was quite comfy with the slightest of the harsh feeling. The shaves I believe should get better in my experience. A few more to go. Fun Time!

Wonderful shaves to all....

596FF8C9-140B-4858-A9AA-93AEB23BA295.jpeg
 


If you own both the Lupo and the
Rocca ,you should try this :
Place an M5 washer ( 10 mm OD )
at the cut out ,underneath the Lupo
baseplate and then use the Rocca
handle to shave with the Lupo .
Takes the whole shave to another
level,isn’t that so ?

Myself I’ve customised the R94
handle to fit directly into the
Lupo’s cut-out .
Rim of Rocca handle has about 11mm
of diameter which needs to be sanded down to about 10 mm ,in order to
fit the cut out of the baseplate.
Then polished the top and the
bottom “counterweight” parts of
the 316L ss handle ,leaving the
middle part as is (sandblasted).









The Muhle Rocca R94 handle is
made from 316L steel ,it is hollow
and weights about 45 grams if I’m
not mistaken.
Has a great grip and skyrockets
the control and overall feedback of the razor .
 
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If you own both the Lupo and the
Rocca ,you should try this :
Place an M5 washer ( 10 mm OD )
at the cut out ,underneath the Lupo
baseplate and then use the Rocca
handle to shave with the Lupo .
Takes the whole shave to another
level,isn’t that so ?

Myself I’ve customised the R94
handle to fit directly into the
Lupo’s cut-out .
Rim of Rocca handle has about 11mm
of diameter which needs to be sanded down to about 10 mm ,in order to
fit the cut out of the baseplate.
Then polished the top and the
bottom “counterweight” parts of
the 316L ss handle ,leaving the
middle part as is (sandblasted).









The Muhle Rocca R94 handle is
made from 316L steel ,it is hollow
and weights about 45 grams if I’m
not mistaken.
Has a great grip and skyrockets
the control and overall feedback of the razor .

Looks great. I have the R94 and will give it a go using an M5 washer. Love the polishing work.
 
Looks great. I have the R94 and will give it a go using an M5 washer. Love the polishing work.

I would really like to hear ( read ) your thoughts ,after that shave !

Polishing work both on the Lupo head and at the top and bottom parts ,
is kinda sloppy ,as it was done in a hurry .
One of these days I hope to be able to give them a final "touch" ,
regarding their polishing.
Still,using the razor will put scratches on the polished parts,nonetheless.
And actually is the only razor I use .

Hope that you will like this combo .
A quite lightweight (for stainless steel ) razor ,
truly a pleasure to hold and drive
all over the face and neck with it .
 
I would really like to hear ( read ) your thoughts ,after that shave !

Polishing work both on the Lupo head and at the top and bottom parts ,
is kinda sloppy ,as it was done in a hurry .
One of these days I hope to be able to give them a final "touch" ,
regarding their polishing.
Still,using the razor will put scratches on the polished parts,nonetheless.
And actually is the only razor I use .

Hope that you will like this combo .
A quite lightweight (for stainless steel ) razor ,
truly a pleasure to hold and drive
all over the face and neck with it .

I will hunt down an M5 washer and give it a go. I'll post here how it went.....may take a few days. How did you polish the handle?
 


If you own both the Lupo and the
Rocca ,you should try this :
Place an M5 washer ( 10 mm OD )
at the cut out ,underneath the Lupo
baseplate and then use the Rocca
handle to shave with the Lupo .
Takes the whole shave to another
level,isn’t that so ?

Myself I’ve customised the R94
handle to fit directly into the
Lupo’s cut-out .
Rim of Rocca handle has about 11mm
of diameter which needs to be sanded down to about 10 mm ,in order to
fit the cut out of the baseplate.
Then polished the top and the
bottom “counterweight” parts of
the 316L ss handle ,leaving the
middle part as is (sandblasted).









The Muhle Rocca R94 handle is
made from 316L steel ,it is hollow
and weights about 45 grams if I’m
not mistaken.
Has a great grip and skyrockets
the control and overall feedback of the razor .
I didn't get a handle with my Lupo and I'm using a Durham handle.
 
First covered the the middle part edges with stretched electrical tape.
Then covered the whole middle part with paper tape.

Used a Parkside polishing set ,which I had bought for about 4 or 5 Euros ,
from the local Lidl super-market.
This one.

Used the felt wheel ,but with the polishing paste normally used with the cloth wheel .
Attached it on a regular electric drill ,trigger lock at slow speed ,placed
and secured the drill on a table and using light pressure ,did the polishing job.

My lathe has broken down ,and had no other solution ,except Dremel ,
which is great for polishing ,but difficult to evenly polish items as large as a razor handle .
The felt and the rest of Dremel bit options ,are of miniature size.

After the polishing job ,washed with gentle soap and
deep cleaned with a microfiber cloth soaked with isopropyl alcohol.

Sandblasted stainless steel parts(like the Rocca razor ,for example),
are a pleasure to polish .They do not need the intermediate steps ,
before the fine and the mirror polishing stages.
The "velvety" sandblasting accepts very fine grit as the first pass and a
a mirror polish can be achieved evenly and easily with a second lighter pass.
 

Fred D

Member of The Illiterati
First covered the the middle part edges with stretched electrical tape.
Then covered the whole middle part with paper tape.

Used a Parkside polishing set ,which I had bought for about 4 or 5 Euros ,
from the local Lidl super-market.
This one.

Used the felt wheel ,but with the polishing paste normally used with the cloth wheel .
Attached it on a regular electric drill ,trigger lock at slow speed ,placed
and secured the drill on a table and using light pressure ,did the polishing job.

My lathe has broken down ,and had no other solution ,except Dremel ,
which is great for polishing ,but difficult to evenly polish items as large as a razor handle .
The felt and the rest of Dremel bit options ,are of miniature size.

After the polishing job ,washed with gentle soap and
deep cleaned with a microfiber cloth soaked with isopropyl alcohol.

Sandblasted stainless steel parts(like the Rocca razor ,for example),
are a pleasure to polish .They do not need the intermediate steps ,
before the fine and the mirror polishing stages.
The "velvety" sandblasting accepts very fine grit as the first pass and a
a mirror polish can be achieved evenly and easily with a second lighter pass.
Excellent job.
 
Nothing much to report with the Feather & Lupo combo on its 2nd shave. Only that it’s a match made in razor heaven especially after the first shave with this hardware set up. Super efficient feeling yet comfortable and actually very smooth. Feathers always do well after the initial go. Not the slightest in harshness and the Lupo .95 just hums along effortlessly. Now, I didn’t say mindless as the Feather still has the teeth of a hungry lion waiting to pounce on a hapless & careless soul but, it certainly isn’t intimidating in the Lupo and I think the Lupo reigns in that harsh and ferocious characteristics that a Feather can show. Granted, I’m not slinging it around my face as I would a Mamba .70 or a British Tech but, I’m moving at a nice pace and the combination left nothing but a BBS finish in 2 plus passes plus a chin buff. Not a shred of irritation. I see real good shaves with this union.....

78B9457E-6778-4F54-AD41-DAC4FD9774E6.jpeg
 
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