Lubricating adjustable & TTO razors

[DE_enthusiast]

I have a tube of Radio Shack lubricating oil sitting in my junk drawer and trying to determine if it is safe enough for my Vintage Adjustables. My guess and hope is that it is a specially treated mineral oil with perhaps a few side benefits.
RadioShack 64-2301a Needle Tip Precision Lubricator 1/4 FL Oz | eBay
About to do a Barbicide treatment and just want to finish up with a single drop down the handle and call it done. Or am I about to do damage to my precious razors and kill them with kindness?

 

[muzichead]

This is what Cap suggested to use for a Fatboy I had redone...

Sentry Solutions Tuf-Glide 1/4 oz. Needle Applicator #91062

 

[loot]

This is what Cap suggested to use for a Fatboy I had redone...

Sentry Solutions Tuf-Glide 1/4 oz. Needle Applicator #91062

+1 for Tuf Glide and I'm relatively certain it was CAP who turned me on to it.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[Scaramouche]

Tiny drop of light mineral oil on threads and adjustment ring after cleaning and drying. Key is "tiny" and "light" - over doing it can be worse than doing nothing. Any organic oil - think olive oil - will turn rancid over time, and other petroleum-based oils may be too heavy, have an odor or leave a residue. Mineral oil just protects moving parts from corrosion and prevents galling. Been used for several hundred years on carbon-steel Japanese katana in the form of choji oil, and a 400 year-old katana can look like the day it was forged. Someone mentioned Ballistol, which is actually mostly mineral oil and certainly works - I use it on all my nickel-plated revolvers and black powder firearms - but it has a smell that is...unique. Some compare it to dirty gym socks. WD-40 is a drying agent, not a lubricant, and various other lubricants like dry Teflon leave a film. Paraffin is another option on threads, but not for closed mechanisms. Another option is not to lubricate at all, but in a hard water environment the adjustment mechanism may become hard to turn and seize up if not lubricated with something, although manufacturers may be silent on any requirement for lubrication or specifically state it's not needed. My experience is that any metal part moving against another metal part benefits from lubrication. Choose wisely.

 

[DE_enthusiast]

Tiny drop of light mineral oil on threads and adjustment ring after cleaning and drying. Key is "tiny" and "light" - over doing it can be worse than doing nothing.

That was my first apprehension to not over do it and why the applicator I have seemed appealing.

WD-40 is a drying agent, not a lubricant, and various other lubricants like dry Teflon leave a film.

WD-40 works so well as a drying agent and for unseizing bolts that it got that reputation as an 'oil'.

Since P.T.F.E is Teflon, I'll avoid using the RS oil on my precious razors. Possible problem adverted.

There is other 'foodsafe' lubricants that are designed for food related equipment, but that might be overkill and whether it will react to the metals used in DE razors, which are usually some sort of composite metals and plating. Which is my second apprehension. Will it tarnish/damage anything?

Choji oil?From wiki-
Choji oil is a traditional Japanese blade preserving compound. It is used in the maintenance of high quality collectible blades. It contains clove oil extract and mineral oil, usually at a ratio of 1:10 to 1:100.

I now just found out about it. Clove oil and Mineral oil? I have clove essential oil. Perhaps I could make my own? Or Perhaps a single drop of clove oil down the handle will satisfy my need to lube the handle? Homemade choji oil if that is do-able. A 1oz batch should set me for life. I figure.

 

[Scaramouche]

That was my first apprehension to not over do it and why the applicator I have seemed appealing.

WD-40 works so well as a drying agent and for unseizing bolts that it got that reputation as an 'oil'.

Since P.T.F.E is Teflon, I'll avoid using the RS oil on my precious razors. Possible problem adverted.

There is other 'foodsafe' lubricants that are designed for food related equipment, but that might be overkill and whether it will react to the metals used in DE razors, which are usually some sort of composite metals and plating. Which is my second apprehension. Will it tarnish/damage anything?

Choji oil?From wiki-
Choji oil is a traditional Japanese blade preserving compound. It is used in the maintenance of high quality collectible blades. It contains clove oil extract and mineral oil, usually at a ratio of 1:10 to 1:100.

I now just found out about it. Clove oil and Mineral oil? I have clove essential oil. Perhaps I could make my own? Or Perhaps a single drop of clove oil down the handle will satisfy my need to lube the handle? Homemade choji oil if that is do-able. A 1oz batch should set me for life. I figure.

Nix on the clove oil! Legend is that clove oil was originally added to the mineral oil by samurai wives to distinguish it from their cooking oil (plus a little fragrance). Not necessary for lubrication, and the phenols in pure clove oil can actually corrode steel. Mixed with mineral oil the effect is neutralized, and the resulting protection can preserve a high carbon steel blade practically indefinitely. I've seen Edo period blades (1600s) practically indistinguishable from modern nihonto, where many of the edged weapons in the Tower of London armory, newer than these, look like they were stored at the bottom of the ocean.

Food-grade mineral oil is a pH neutral lubricant with very good hydrophobic (water-displacing) properties, non-toxic, and has been used for centuries for protecting metal surfaces of all sorts. It won't affect any plating or finish on modern (or antique) razors, and will provide the same protection as on ancient blades; I routinely use it to lubricate and protect the threads on all the handles of my razors - the tiniest drop. Truth to tell, modern razor materials (maybe with the exception of Zamak ) probably could last for centuries with no protection, but I see no reason not to provide them with the same courtesy and attention I give my Japanese steel so my great, great, great grandkids can enjoy them unchanged.

 

[It's Hedley]

This is what Cap suggested to use for a Fatboy I had redone...

Sentry Solutions Tuf-Glide 1/4 oz. Needle Applicator #91062

How do you apply to the Fatboy or slim?

 

[DE_enthusiast]

Nix on the clove oil!

Sorry, thought there was something more practical to the clove oil and it was around my place. So the tiniest amount of Food Grade mineral oil for the Adjustable and perhaps hollow handles DE razors. For the great grandkids.

As for me, I want to get into a regimen of keeping the razors and blades dry after each use. So I'll have some sort of lazy method on hand and won't procrastinate on that. If I need to shave and go.

At the moment, I have some vintage razors on standby which I've bought over the past two weeks. Which is the impetus for all my questions.
So ATM, they are ready to be Barbicided. or maybe take this test beforehand? Barbicide Certification |

Next, Air dry all the razors, then a single drop of FS Mineral in the handle then the fun begins.

Now the next question. How long before I should clean my DEs with Dishsoap?
or how much longer before I consider the Barbicide and single drop of FG M-oil treatment?
or am I presuming too much and about to enter into a mishap?

I've seen Edo period blades (1600s) practically indistinguishable from modern nihonto, where many of the edged weapons in the Tower of London armory, newer than these, look like they were stored at the bottom of the ocean.

The elements only need to get surface level to do their damage. And the finish of DE razors another consideration. Fortunately, Mineral Oil is very multipurpose. For centuries apparently. I know next to nothing about edge weapon blades, but there is some interesting methods used in forging them that might have been lost on the current blades as well as the elements and time.

Guess most DEs are injected molded and a finish is added.

 

[romsitsa]

I wouldn’t oil it. It’s nickel plated brass rubbing against nickel plated brass. You can’t be sure that the interior is clean without disassembly and lubing up gunk can create a sanding paste. Oil will collect further gunk as it’s not an airtight connection.

Adam

 

[DE_enthusiast]

I wouldn’t oil it. It’s nickel plated brass rubbing against nickel plated brass. You can’t be sure that the interior is clean without disassembly and lubing up gunk can create a sanding paste. Oil will collect further gunk as it’s not an airtight connection.

I can't be as sure with the vintage adjustables. My first Gillette was a antique store find. It was a fully used twist open razor. Green with soap scum. It actually seized up with the stuff. I disassembled it and cleaned between every hinge and the threads. I'm with you on not adding something that might do more harm than good and have abandoned all my other oil choices and narrowed things down. Food safe Mineral oil for me and applied with a toothpick in the working area only.

The tiniest of drops will be adequate where the two areas are rubbing. Mineral Oil is used to protect 1000 year old weapons to prevent rust and the oil won't react with the composite metal of my DE razors. Plus I plan on getting into a cleaning regimen to keep it dry and free of soap scum. Really don't want to disassemble them if I can help it. They both work fine. That tiny drop would be just enough to keep the soap off of the contact area and for gentle opening and closing. Perhaps a used hinge might even be considered 'broken in' as well.

Made all my mistakes cleaning that first Gillette and trying to restore it BTW. It seized up with green soap scum, so I had to use pliers to unseize it. Which damages the surface and black paint. I'm going to have to realign the hinges to get it 100% functional.

 

[loot]

How do you apply to the Fatboy or slim?

Here you go.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[It's Hedley]

Here you go.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk[/QUOTE

I will save this youtube to my file should I ever need. It sounds like some say lubricate, other not. I will try the old dawn bath before I ever go this route. Thanks Loot.

 

[Chris Spertos]

I left my vintage Gillettes TTO's in water with dish washing liquid for about a week. Changing the water and soap every 24 hours. They really loosened up nicely. One of my Black Beauty razors was in terrible shape, the TTO mechanism wouldn't budge. I had to leave that to soak for a month. Eventually it loosened up nicely. And after mild scrubbing with toothbrush and mild liquid soap, I used mineral oil. Now the mechanism on them work very good

 

[yapyisoon]

I received a Super-84 which had a difficult to turn dial and tto. Boiling and soaking in water with a bit of dawn soap didn't help. An ultrasonic cleaner did the trick. I regret lubricating a slim with tuf-glide because it has that wd-40 smell which I do not like. I have another slim which was re-plated. All three now have an identical feel in the dial and tto, smooth and nicely 'damped' feel, even on the 1/4 turn lock.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Useful thread. I'm glad I found it. Thanks, gentlemen.

Just cleaned my Gillette Slim inside and out with my new ultrasonic cleaner, hot tap water, and a squirt of Dawn.

Used the basket for the first four minutes. Then, removed the basket and did two rounds of three minutes. So, ten minutes total.

Next, after some drying, I lubricated moving parts using a synthetic lubricant which was mostly used because of its needle applicator.

I'm not entirely sure the adjustment wheel is 100% as free as my other Gillette adjustables, but it's very close, and only has a bit of extra feel at #9. The razor looks great. The opening and closing mechanism was already just fine but now it's really great. The razor looks new (to my uneducated eye).

I'm okay with the wheel's status unless I change my mind in which case the ultrasound is available.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Mustard Seed]

Wahl Clipper Oil.... used it on my Fatboy and Slim.... so far so good

 

[Doug135]

Useful thread. I'm glad I found it. Thanks, gentlemen.

Just cleaned my Gillette Slim inside and out with my new ultrasonic cleaner, hot tap water, and a squirt of Dawn.

Used the basket for the first four minutes. Then, removed the basket and did two rounds of three minutes. So, ten minutes total.


View attachment 1187699


Next, after some drying, I lubricated moving parts using a synthetic lubricant which was mostly used because of its needle applicator.

I'm not entirely sure the adjustment wheel is 100% as free as my other Gillette adjustables, but it's very close, and only has a bit of extra feel at #9. The razor looks great. The opening and closing mechanism was already just fine but now it's really great. The razor looks new (to my uneducated eye).

I'm okay with the wheel's status unless I change my mind in which case the ultrasound is available.

Happy shaves,

Jim

Thanks Jim for the recommendation! Lubricating TTOs is something I haven't quite mastered. I've tried mineral oil, but it's hard to get in the right spots. I'm assuming you applied your oil inside the shaft (via head), the tiny hinges/pins for the silo doors, and the top of the TTO knob?

 

[Quaznoid]

One drop sewing machine oil per year from the top down into the center hole. Stand razor up for an hour or so to let the oil percolate down. Twist the mechanism a few times and park it. Keeps em nice and smooth.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Thanks Jim for the recommendation! Lubricating TTOs is something I haven't quite mastered. I've tried mineral oil, but it's hard to get in the right spots. I'm assuming you applied your oil inside the shaft (via head), the tiny hinges/pins for the silo doors, and the top of the TTO knob?

I lubricated the spots suggested in the video above in post #51. I also put a drop or two on the moveable part in the middle of the top of the razor so it could run down inside the mechanism (this was suggested to me by Mike @Esox, assuming I understood him correctly).

The spot mentioned above is marked by a star.​

So, I lubricated these spots.

• Where the star is in the photo above.
• The small indentation which indicates where the adjustment knot is set. It's right above the adjustment knob. Lubricant applied there gets to the adjustment knob.
• The two notches on the very bottom. This allows the bottom thread to become lubricated.
• The top of the TTO knob.
• The hinges.

I used only a tiny amount of lubricant. The needle applicator I used makes that easy which is why I used it. Just like the guy in the video I wiped everything off to remove any possible excess lubricant.

Basically, I just did what the video suggested plus what Mike suggested.

Not all Gillette adjustables have the two notches, but all need a little lubrication on those threads and that area assuming the adjustables need lubrication at all. To me, lubrication makes sense especially following the sort of cleaning an ultrasonic cleaner delivers.

My understanding is a similar amount (tiny amount) of mineral oil can be applied with a toothpick. I've not done that, but only read about it. I've used various mineral oils in honing straight razors, enough to know that mineral oils vary a good little bit. Some are a lot thicker or thinner than others.

I have four Gillette adjustables - Slim, Fatboy, Executive, Super Adjustable - all of which were cleaned and lubricated as described in this post, and in the post linked here, and in the post following the linked post.

I'm not 100% pleased with the Slim's adjustment wheel. It is still not as easy to turn as the wheels on the other three adjustables. It is however a lot better. I'll see how it feels over time (perhaps it will improve on its own) and consider another cleaning in the ultrasonic cleaner.

This is the first time I've used an ultrasonic cleaner and the first time I've lubricated adjustable razors so I'm fumbling about trying to figure things out.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Doug135]

I lubricated the spots suggested in the video above in post #51. I also put a drop or two on the moveable part in the middle of the top of the razor so it could run down inside the mechanism (this was suggested to me by Mike @Esox, assuming I understood him correctly).

View attachment 1187932

The spot mentioned above is marked by a star.​

So, I lubricated these spots.

• Where the star is in the photo above.
• The small indentation which indicates where the adjustment knot is set. It's right above the adjustment knob. Lubricant applied there gets to the adjustment knob.
• The two notches on the very bottom. This allows the bottom thread to become lubricated.
• The top of the TTO knob.
• The hinges.

I used only a tiny amount of lubricant. The needle applicator I used makes that easy which is why I used it. Just like the guy in the video I wiped everything off to remove any possible excess lubricant.

Basically, I just did what the video suggested plus what Mike suggested.

Not all Gillette adjustables have the two notches, but all need a little lubrication on those threads and that area assuming the adjustables need lubrication at all. To me, lubrication makes sense especially following the sort of cleaning an ultrasonic cleaner delivers.

My understanding is a similar amount (tiny amount) of mineral oil can be applied with a toothpick. I've not done that, but only read about it. I've used various mineral oils in honing straight razors, enough to know that mineral oils vary a good little bit. Some are a lot thicker or thinner than others.

I have four Gillette adjustables - Slim, Fatboy, Executive, Super Adjustable - all of which were cleaned and lubricated as described in this post, and in the post linked here, and in the post following the linked post.

I'm not 100% pleased with the Slim's adjustment wheel. It is still not as easy to turn as the wheels on the other three adjustables. It is however a lot better. I'll see how it feels over time (perhaps it will improve on its own) and consider another cleaning in the ultrasonic cleaner.


View attachment 1187937


This is the first time I've used an ultrasonic cleaner and the first time I've lubricated adjustable razors so I'm fumbling about trying to figure things out.

Happy shaves,

Jim

Many thanks again, kind Sir! That was the same problem I discovered: after running my Fatboy through an ultrasonic cleaning, it squeked and didn't operate smoothly. I'll try your tips shortly!