It feels like the pin where my razor pivots has gotten a little loose and I'd like to tighten it up a bit. I presume I am able to take a punch and tap it to tighten it up; however, I wanted to run it by you guys first.
Loose Pin/Pivot
- Thread starter barracudamagoo
- Start date
Without seeing your issues, I'm hesitant to offer an opinion, but I'll give you this bit of information:
Look at your scales. If they are pinned in a traditional manner, on one side it will be clear that one of them was on the receiving in of the peening hammer. Rest the unpeened par of the pivot pin on something really hard and smooth and tap the peened side with a table spoon. Don't use much force, but firm little taps can fix a little loosening in many cases.
This won't be a good idea on all razors, but you can look at yours at see if it's worth messing with... Otherwise, you might want to post pics to get a more helpful answer
Good luck
Look at your scales. If they are pinned in a traditional manner, on one side it will be clear that one of them was on the receiving in of the peening hammer. Rest the unpeened par of the pivot pin on something really hard and smooth and tap the peened side with a table spoon. Don't use much force, but firm little taps can fix a little loosening in many cases.
This won't be a good idea on all razors, but you can look at yours at see if it's worth messing with... Otherwise, you might want to post pics to get a more helpful answer
Good luck
- Thread starter
- #3
I'll try to post up some pics in a few minutes.
In my experience, often times the pivot hole of the blade is much larger than the pin. So the peen has to be very tight for the bearing washers to take up the slack that allows the blade to wiggle.
You want something round as richmondesi stated. When I peen a new set of scales, sometimes it takes a little extra force to get things nice and tight. But you definitely want to go slow and easy, unless you really want to build yourself a new set of scales.
Some scale materials are more durable than others.
You want something round as richmondesi stated. When I peen a new set of scales, sometimes it takes a little extra force to get things nice and tight. But you definitely want to go slow and easy, unless you really want to build yourself a new set of scales.
Some scale materials are more durable than others.
- Thread starter
- #5
Well, the wife has the camera in her car; therefore, I can't post a pic until later. I'll give it a few taps with the spoon and see if it helps.
Before you do anything, see if the blade can move back and forth on the pivot pin. If it does, then don't even try to tighten the pin. This condition is caused by the pivot hole being worn and out of round. Trying to tighten the pin under this condition will bend the pin inside that hole and most likely you will snap your scales.
If, however, there is no lateral movement in the blade, then you might try it. You still want to be extremely careful though.
Ray
If, however, there is no lateral movement in the blade, then you might try it. You still want to be extremely careful though.
Ray
That's odd, my 'new' dovos both have that wiggle room, my vinntage doesn't
Would have thought that there wouldn't have been time for a razor to get worn down in the pin-hole if it's new...
any reason why it might be that dovo's newer razors are wigglers?
Would have thought that there wouldn't have been time for a razor to get worn down in the pin-hole if it's new...
any reason why it might be that dovo's newer razors are wigglers?
The pivot hole is stamped into the neck prior to tempering. When the blade is tempered, the hole can change dimensions.
Having personally honed many Dovo's, I don't find them to be that great of a razor. They just happen to be one that is produced today and are better than Chinese or Pakistani razors.
Ray
Ahh, I see, yeah, that'd explain a bit then, heh, Figures
Heh, I find myself reaching for my vintage bengall more often these days, rather then my two DOVOs... Possibly might get rid of 'em on the BST and try for another Vintage or three...
If it was tight and got loose I say tap it and tighten her back up.
I see what you did there.
Wow good thing Paul/Richmondesi is here with the correct info...
Yeah stay away from punches too, they concentrate the force..
Never tap a razor harder than you would the top on your finger, that very sensitive spot at the fingernail and you should be fine... Also the real trick is to tap around the edge of the pin not directly down on the top but to do that correctly you need a Jewelers Ballpeen Hammer, a tablespoon works in a pinch just like Paul said, and really limits the force used.... Be very careful as most vintage razors (new Dovo's and TI's also) have a peen only on the back side of the razor banging away at the front side is a waste on most of them...
Like Ambrose said, "If it was tight.. before you should be fine", if it was never tight then there very well could be other problems...
And remember it is Tapity-Tap-Tap
not Bang, Bang 
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No razor is built tight they all have a tiny bit of slop built into them, if they didn't they would not last very long...First mistake amateur Restorers make is to build a tight razor and then wonder why the pins loosen up very fast, because they didn't account for the pressure in the system...Everything has to be able to flex as the razor is opened and closed...
The only razors I know for sure were stamped are the older Sheffield's that is why there are so many huge out of round holes in their tangs... Whether that came from wear or not actually is a huge controversy in itself... Some people believe that it is impossible for the softer pin metal to wear out the hard steel...
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