With plate 5/6 I can shave daily or with a few days growth easily. Although, with week worth of stubble I need the 3rd pass. I am not after BBS, and I am only doing 2 pass with the grain or so. I gave up with xtg and atg as I've been struggling with bumps and ingrowns and irritation all the time I've started this hobby (a year or so).
I just have created some pattern which way I shave at different parts of my face that I feel comfortable with and results in ok appearance in stubble removal. I have a very coarse facial hair and yes, it is easier to shave few days worth of stubble than one.
I have tried various razors, soaps, alum, witch hazel, blades you name it but rarely I have a shave that ends up with zero irritation or zero bump. And I am such a person that usually over do things, so that have not helped either. For what I have learned, is that I get more irritation from mild razors. So, Rockwell 6S with plate 6 gave me best results. It might cut you, yes, but it removes stubble much more efficient than lower plates that need more passes to reach the same result. You will learn to handle higher plates, with practice. To me they felt more natural than lower. Start with 5, I think that is a good one. 4 is already too mild, not in feel but efficiency.
I can say that 4 feels like it will be a rough ride, but it just won't cut good enough.
I have not been using my Rockwell a while now, as I am learning with Tatara Nodachi OC and CC and it seem to give me even better results. So, again going towards a bit more aggressive.
With my battle for irritation/bumps/itchiness and all in between I have just realised the fact I do not give a heck about BBS just a pleasurable shave. If there is left some hair, it will be removed other day. At least I had fun and feel great.
Been having nice shaves with this :
Mid aggressive razor (Nodachi OC for few days of growth, CC daily)
Mid sharp blade (Rapira Plat Lux, Rapira Swedish SS, Ladas, Astra SP etc.)
Prep wash my face with MWF bath soap, water more on colder side few minutes wash
Liberally applied Myrsol Antesol all over my stubble
Prepare wet (and I mean really well hydrated WET) lather at hot scuttle
Gently (and slow) paint lather to face, few swirls all over, no overdoing here add water at this point if needed if not wet enough lather
When shaving, glide razor just ONE time over the lather. Not like youtubers. Just one sweep over the lathered area.
After 1st pass, wash with colder side water (not very cold, temp that you feel comfortable with)
Apply warm lather from the scuttle gently and very carefully, no swirling anymore
Shave like the 1st pass
Wash lather off with same temp water as before.
Finally, hit water temp to coldest possible and finalize the shave with quick wash with that.
Let left over water dry out on face when wash all the gear and after that, splash some aftershave on.
If shaved at morning/during day I will put some Myrsol Emulsion or MWF Hand and Body lotion to shaved area before sleep. Usually aftershaves dry my face a bit, but balms do not agree with me. With balms, I do get irritation and break out some times. So splashes are the way to go.
By the way, used Proraso Red aftershave splash today after a long break from it and it felt excellent. It has some moisturizing properties so it is not so drying.
Hope there is some hints you could try. Most of all, do not be afraid of more aggressive plates. They might bite at first of course, but you will get it eventually. It is all about the angle and pressure.
As for my most moisturizing soaps, they are MWF and Cella. Saponificio Varesino are ok too when it comes to moisturizing but for me they are too oily. For easiness to lather, I would go with Cella for starters.
I just have created some pattern which way I shave at different parts of my face that I feel comfortable with and results in ok appearance in stubble removal. I have a very coarse facial hair and yes, it is easier to shave few days worth of stubble than one.
I have tried various razors, soaps, alum, witch hazel, blades you name it but rarely I have a shave that ends up with zero irritation or zero bump. And I am such a person that usually over do things, so that have not helped either. For what I have learned, is that I get more irritation from mild razors. So, Rockwell 6S with plate 6 gave me best results. It might cut you, yes, but it removes stubble much more efficient than lower plates that need more passes to reach the same result. You will learn to handle higher plates, with practice. To me they felt more natural than lower. Start with 5, I think that is a good one. 4 is already too mild, not in feel but efficiency.
I can say that 4 feels like it will be a rough ride, but it just won't cut good enough.
I have not been using my Rockwell a while now, as I am learning with Tatara Nodachi OC and CC and it seem to give me even better results. So, again going towards a bit more aggressive.
With my battle for irritation/bumps/itchiness and all in between I have just realised the fact I do not give a heck about BBS just a pleasurable shave. If there is left some hair, it will be removed other day. At least I had fun and feel great.
Been having nice shaves with this :
Mid aggressive razor (Nodachi OC for few days of growth, CC daily)
Mid sharp blade (Rapira Plat Lux, Rapira Swedish SS, Ladas, Astra SP etc.)
Prep wash my face with MWF bath soap, water more on colder side few minutes wash
Liberally applied Myrsol Antesol all over my stubble
Prepare wet (and I mean really well hydrated WET) lather at hot scuttle
Gently (and slow) paint lather to face, few swirls all over, no overdoing here add water at this point if needed if not wet enough lather
When shaving, glide razor just ONE time over the lather. Not like youtubers. Just one sweep over the lathered area.
After 1st pass, wash with colder side water (not very cold, temp that you feel comfortable with)
Apply warm lather from the scuttle gently and very carefully, no swirling anymore
Shave like the 1st pass
Wash lather off with same temp water as before.
Finally, hit water temp to coldest possible and finalize the shave with quick wash with that.
Let left over water dry out on face when wash all the gear and after that, splash some aftershave on.
If shaved at morning/during day I will put some Myrsol Emulsion or MWF Hand and Body lotion to shaved area before sleep. Usually aftershaves dry my face a bit, but balms do not agree with me. With balms, I do get irritation and break out some times. So splashes are the way to go.
By the way, used Proraso Red aftershave splash today after a long break from it and it felt excellent. It has some moisturizing properties so it is not so drying.
Hope there is some hints you could try. Most of all, do not be afraid of more aggressive plates. They might bite at first of course, but you will get it eventually. It is all about the angle and pressure.
As for my most moisturizing soaps, they are MWF and Cella. Saponificio Varesino are ok too when it comes to moisturizing but for me they are too oily. For easiness to lather, I would go with Cella for starters.
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