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Decades later, those springs are well used so Id be surprised to see that, even on an NOS razor that’s been compressed on setting 1 for decades. I can make the baseplate tilt manually like my other modern adjustables if I press it to one side. I think Pearl could have saved some bad press and worked on those springs during packaging.

Brother you just healed a lot of heart burn I had for my $$$ Rex Ambassador N2 series razor gathering dust due to this blade canting issue.

I took Your advice and kept jogging the spring on my copy by pressing the base plate when on the highest setting.

I also jogged the adjustment wheel from the lowest to the highest Setting and it came to my attention that the dial doesn't turn Smoothly and consistently all through 1 to 6.

It tightens up almost locks around 5 and then moves on with a scratchy feel.

Apparently the spring seems to be this Razor's Achilles heel.

After exercising the spring for hours, I finally shaved with it today going up to 2.5 and it have me a great shave for the first time in the time I have owned it !!

With regards to the Pearl Flexi - while I see folks dissemble razors and highlight all possible design faults, the common sense approach you've suggested seems to just work fine.

Since both razors are CNC milled which would have the tightest tolerances of manufacturing, I doubt that issues are due to malformed razor parts which are possible in cast razors.

Some users have claimed that the flexi is a blatant copy of the Rex Ambassador, which means that the design faults of the flexi would also have been copied!

This leaves the spring as the only variable in introducing the error, which should be resolved using your breaking in technique technique !

I did contact Pearl Shaving on the reported issues and they said that they are fixing this issue in the December batch and also taking care of customers who have this issue actively. This is great customer service in my book.

Thank you once again for such a common sense approach to problem solving and resolution of this issue.
 
From the videos posted in this thead, it appears to be a problem that can be fixed easily. I hope they have it sorted in the next release and I can get one here in the states. Looks like it could be a great razor.
 
I rewatched the video Kevy posted regarding his experience and one of his viewer’s contributing a disassembly video of the Flexi. I decided to get out my Gibbs to compare.

I want to say that Kevy is one of a few reviewers I trust on YouTube. I enjoy his videos and have followed him for a very long time. I also want to say that my comments below aren’t a reflection of him as he honestly shared his experience and wanted to relay his concerns regarding a razor he had just reviewed and gave high marks. His honesty is reflective of how he put out those follow up videos and expressed genuine concern about an issue he had himself experienced. My comments are also not a reflection of members here whom linked the same disassembly video on this thread and others. I would have done the same thing to save other members here any issues with a new product.

I digress.

The reviewer spends quite a bit of time describing how the central shaft (See pic 1/pencil tip/Attached to blade tray on my Gibbs) should not have a shoulder and should be uniform in diameter the whole length. Then the reviewer goes on to to describe what a sloppy design this is and makes statements about the lower tapered diameter of the shaft being much too small for the hole of the baseplate, causing canting issues and describing this as a flaw.

Since he disassembled the razor, the reviewer knew very well that the spring which he left off the shaft for his video goes on the lower, tapered section. It is the same design as my Gibbs (See below). I left my spring on the lower part of the shaft to illustrate that the shaft will not fit in the hole of the baseplate (See pic 2) without this tapering. The spring actually enables the lowered tapered section to be almost the same diameter as the upper shoulder but is slightly smaller so that the spring does not go up past the shoulder to the blade tray. The spring is shown sitting off to the side in the reviewer’s video, he removed the spring yet he made that assertion anyway.

Watching the video again, I was trying to figure out if the reviewer was being dishonest or just erred in his assessment of the shaft design. The reviewer, seemingly almost in a deceptive manner intentionally shifted the tapered end of the shaft from side to side in the baseplate hole without the spring affixed to illustrate how the hole was too large for the “sloppy razor shaft design. This movement the reviewer demonstrated could not have done with the spring still affixed on the tapered end of the shaft. Again, see pic 2.

As an aside, the shoulder on the top part of that shaft is actually the fully extended blade gap. Without the handle in pic 3, this shoulder is shown in its entirety on setting 6 on my Gibbs.

I took the time to review the shaft design of the Rex Ambassador. Interestingly enough, I learned that RE initially tried a smaller diameter shaft design of uniform length (Not tapered) in their first M series Rex Ambassador release in the fall of 2017. I also learned that due to customer complaints with gap canting and the adjustment dial having too little resistance/turning unintentionally during shaves that they went with a slightly larger, Gibbs shoulder/tapered design shaft for the N series in 2018. The French designed a really good razor back in the day.

The only thing I found useful in the reviewer’s video was the spring shown off to the side. My Gibbs spring pictured below is more robust and looks more heavy duty. I should also add that another, much older Gibbs Adjustable I own which I suspect to be from one of the first release years has a spring that resembles the Flexi spring in the video. My belief is that Gibbs decided to go with a longer, beefed up spring in later years.

I can intentionally cant/tilt my Gibbs gaps but not as much as the Flexi. This is a fact but I don’t think this a design flaw for the Flexi. I have other modern adjustables that I can intentionally cant/tilt much more than what I have seen in pictures of the Flexi. As I have mentioned too much in the last few days, I have had a couple of modern adjustables with the same gap cant/tilt issue and the gap ended up being perfect after use and spring break in.

I think I really want a challenged Flexi to prove my theory that any gap issues are spring related. Anyways, Kevy just posted a video that Pearl would make things right with anyone with any such issues.
 

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Brother you just healed a lot of heart burn I had for my $$$ Rex Ambassador N2 series razor gathering dust due to this blade canting issue.

I took Your advice and kept jogging the spring on my copy by pressing the base plate when on the highest setting.

I also jogged the adjustment wheel from the lowest to the highest Setting and it came to my attention that the dial doesn't turn Smoothly and consistently all through 1 to 6.

It tightens up almost locks around 5 and then moves on with a scratchy feel.

Apparently the spring seems to be this Razor's Achilles heel.

After exercising the spring for hours, I finally shaved with it today going up to 2.5 and it have me a great shave for the first time in the time I have owned it !!

With regards to the Pearl Flexi - while I see folks dissemble razors and highlight all possible design faults, the common sense approach you've suggested seems to just work fine.

Since both razors are CNC milled which would have the tightest tolerances of manufacturing, I doubt that issues are due to malformed razor parts which are possible in cast razors.

Some users have claimed that the flexi is a blatant copy of the Rex Ambassador, which means that the design faults of the flexi would also have been copied!

This leaves the spring as the only variable in introducing the error, which should be resolved using your breaking in technique technique !

I did contact Pearl Shaving on the reported issues and they said that they are fixing this issue in the December batch and also taking care of customers who have this issue actively. This is great customer service in my book.

Thank you once again for such a common sense approach to problem solving and resolution of this issue.

Regarding that scratchy feel to your Rex dial after setting 5, I have the exact same issue. My conclusion was that they laser etched the baseplate numbers just over a setting off than what it should have been. The razor works but my gut feeling is that my setting 5 is actually setting 6. Other things such as it not adjusting after setting 5 and my setting 1 being way off cinched it for me.

Glad your Rex gap is good to go. I figured it was your spring. Just pick a setting that works like I do. In the end, I guess it doesn’t matter if our settings are off other Rex razors. The setting is still respective to the user regardless of what number we think it is on.
 
I rewatched the video Kevy posted regarding his experience and one of his viewer’s contributing a disassembly video of the Flexi. I decided to get out my Gibbs to compare.

I want to say that Kevy is one of a few reviewers I trust on YouTube. I enjoy his videos and have followed him for a very long time. I also want to say that my comments below aren’t a reflection of him as he honestly shared his experience and wanted to relay his concerns regarding a razor he had just reviewed and gave high marks. His honesty is reflective of how he put out those follow up videos and expressed genuine concern about an issue he had himself experienced. My comments are also not a reflection of members here whom linked the same disassembly video on this thread and others. I would have done the same thing to save other members here any issues with a new product.

I digress.

The reviewer spends quite a bit of time describing how the central shaft (See pic 1/pencil tip/Attached to blade tray on my Gibbs) should not have a shoulder and should be uniform in diameter the whole length. Then the reviewer goes on to to describe what a sloppy design this is and makes statements about the lower tapered diameter of the shaft being much too small for the hole of the baseplate, causing canting issues and describing this as a flaw.

Since he disassembled the razor, the reviewer knew very well that the spring which he left off the shaft for his video goes on the lower, tapered section. It is the same design as my Gibbs (See below). I left my spring on the lower part of the shaft to illustrate that the shaft will not fit in the hole of the baseplate (See pic 2) without this tapering. The spring actually enables the lowered tapered section to be almost the same diameter as the upper shoulder but is slightly smaller so that the spring does not go up past the shoulder to the blade tray. The spring is shown sitting off to the side in the reviewer’s video, he removed the spring yet he made that assertion anyway.

Watching the video again, I was trying to figure out if the reviewer was being dishonest or just erred in his assessment of the shaft design. The reviewer, seemingly almost in a deceptive manner intentionally shifted the tapered end of the shaft from side to side in the baseplate hole without the spring affixed to illustrate how the hole was too large for the “sloppy razor shaft design. This movement the reviewer demonstrated could not have done with the spring still affixed on the tapered end of the shaft. Again, see pic 2.

As an aside, the shoulder on the top part of that shaft is actually the fully extended blade gap. Without the handle in pic 3, this shoulder is shown in its entirety on setting 6 on my Gibbs.

I took the time to review the shaft design of the Rex Ambassador. Interestingly enough, I learned that RE initially tried a smaller diameter shaft design of uniform length (Not tapered) in their first M series Rex Ambassador release in the fall of 2017. I also learned that due to customer complaints with gap canting and the adjustment dial having too little resistance/turning unintentionally during shaves that they went with a slightly larger, Gibbs shoulder/tapered design shaft for the N series in 2018. The French designed a really good razor back in the day.

The only thing I found useful in the reviewer’s video was the spring shown off to the side. My Gibbs spring pictured below is more robust and looks more heavy duty. I should also add that another, much older Gibbs Adjustable I own which I suspect to be from one of the first release years has a spring that resembles the Flexi spring in the video. My belief is that Gibbs decided to go with a longer, beefed up spring in later years.

I can intentionally cant/tilt my Gibbs gaps but not as much as the Flexi. This is a fact but I don’t think this a design flaw for the Flexi. I have other modern adjustables that I can intentionally cant/tilt much more than what I have seen in pictures of the Flexi. As I have mentioned too much in the last few days, I have had a couple of modern adjustables with the same gap cant/tilt issue and the gap ended up being perfect after use and spring break in.

I think I really want a challenged Flexi to prove my theory that any gap issues are spring related. Anyways, Kevy just posted a video that Pearl would make things right with anyone with any such issues.

You've hit the nail on the head.

On a side note. Can we actually open up a Rex or a Flexi with little effort just like you've opened up the Gibbs. If that be the case, sending new robust springs with Instructions on how to replace would solve most problems for either Rex or the Flexi !
 
You've hit the nail on the head.

On a side note. Can we actually open up a Rex or a Flexi with little effort just like you've opened up the Gibbs. If that be the case, sending new robust springs with Instructions on how to replace would solve most problems for either Rex or the Flexi !

The Rex is threadlocked. When RE services them, they use a jeweler’s torch to release the thread lock. I have not opened mine up myself. When I ordered a few years back, I requested that it not be threadlocked but never got a response. If you decide to do that, you would most likely lose the warranty.

I don’t own the Flexi so I’m not sure about the level of difficulty disassembling one.
 
I rewatched the video Kevy posted regarding his experience and one of his viewer’s contributing a disassembly video of the Flexi. I decided to get out my Gibbs to compare.

I want to say that Kevy is one of a few reviewers I trust on YouTube. I enjoy his videos and have followed him for a very long time. I also want to say that my comments below aren’t a reflection of him as he honestly shared his experience and wanted to relay his concerns regarding a razor he had just reviewed and gave high marks. His honesty is reflective of how he put out those follow up videos and expressed genuine concern about an issue he had himself experienced. My comments are also not a reflection of members here whom linked the same disassembly video on this thread and others. I would have done the same thing to save other members here any issues with a new product.

I digress.

The reviewer spends quite a bit of time describing how the central shaft (See pic 1/pencil tip/Attached to blade tray on my Gibbs) should not have a shoulder and should be uniform in diameter the whole length. Then the reviewer goes on to to describe what a sloppy design this is and makes statements about the lower tapered diameter of the shaft being much too small for the hole of the baseplate, causing canting issues and describing this as a flaw.

Since he disassembled the razor, the reviewer knew very well that the spring which he left off the shaft for his video goes on the lower, tapered section. It is the same design as my Gibbs (See below). I left my spring on the lower part of the shaft to illustrate that the shaft will not fit in the hole of the baseplate (See pic 2) without this tapering. The spring actually enables the lowered tapered section to be almost the same diameter as the upper shoulder but is slightly smaller so that the spring does not go up past the shoulder to the blade tray. The spring is shown sitting off to the side in the reviewer’s video, he removed the spring yet he made that assertion anyway.

Watching the video again, I was trying to figure out if the reviewer was being dishonest or just erred in his assessment of the shaft design. The reviewer, seemingly almost in a deceptive manner intentionally shifted the tapered end of the shaft from side to side in the baseplate hole without the spring affixed to illustrate how the hole was too large for the “sloppy razor shaft design. This movement the reviewer demonstrated could not have done with the spring still affixed on the tapered end of the shaft. Again, see pic 2.

As an aside, the shoulder on the top part of that shaft is actually the fully extended blade gap. Without the handle in pic 3, this shoulder is shown in its entirety on setting 6 on my Gibbs.

I took the time to review the shaft design of the Rex Ambassador. Interestingly enough, I learned that RE initially tried a smaller diameter shaft design of uniform length (Not tapered) in their first M series Rex Ambassador release in the fall of 2017. I also learned that due to customer complaints with gap canting and the adjustment dial having too little resistance/turning unintentionally during shaves that they went with a slightly larger, Gibbs shoulder/tapered design shaft for the N series in 2018. The French designed a really good razor back in the day.

The only thing I found useful in the reviewer’s video was the spring shown off to the side. My Gibbs spring pictured below is more robust and looks more heavy duty. I should also add that another, much older Gibbs Adjustable I own which I suspect to be from one of the first release years has a spring that resembles the Flexi spring in the video. My belief is that Gibbs decided to go with a longer, beefed up spring in later years.

I can intentionally cant/tilt my Gibbs gaps but not as much as the Flexi. This is a fact but I don’t think this a design flaw for the Flexi. I have other modern adjustables that I can intentionally cant/tilt much more than what I have seen in pictures of the Flexi. As I have mentioned too much in the last few days, I have had a couple of modern adjustables with the same gap cant/tilt issue and the gap ended up being perfect after use and spring break in.

I think I really want a challenged Flexi to prove my theory that any gap issues are spring related. Anyways, Kevy just posted a video that Pearl would make things right with anyone with any such issues.
Great post! And I know the topic isn’t the Gibbs per se, but gotta say your razor is gorgeous!
 
Well, unfortunately, I have the alignment problem with the Flexi I have. I tried working the spring and it helped a bit. Contacted Pearl and the responded quickly with an offer of a replacement razor or refund. I chose a replacement. Now the waiting begins.
 
Actually, looks more like the Personna version of the GIBBs, which is really what the REX and this new Pearl are likely based off of. - For those that don't realize it, the Gibbs used a proprietary blade with notches on the end tabs for alignment, a regular DE doesn't fit without modification. The Personna Precision Micrometric was a version of the Gibbs, which could take a standard DE blade.

I was lucky enough to share in the REX pass-around a year to two back, and it was a nice shaving razor. A bit more blade feel than a Gillette Slim/Fat-Boy, Progress, or Futur (clone anyway, as I only have the clone), and did give a nice shave. Push come to shove, I couldn't justify the price, given it didn't shave appreciably better than many other less expensive razors. It did have awesome knurling, that even the slickest, soapiest hand in the world wouldn't have trouble holding onto it. Absolutely loved the knurling, and the fit and finish was quite good.

If they can fix any alignment issues, or it is merely a spring that needs to sort of settle into it's own, this might be a tempting alternative. I've tired a few times to buy a Personna Micrometric, however, never managed to snag one of those rare beasts. (They're more rare than the Gibbs, which it was based off of).
 
Actually, looks more like the Personna version of the GIBBs, which is really what the REX and this new Pearl are likely based off of. - For those that don't realize it, the Gibbs used a proprietary blade with notches on the end tabs for alignment, a regular DE doesn't fit without modification. The Personna Precision Micrometric was a version of the Gibbs, which could take a standard DE blade.

I was lucky enough to share in the REX pass-around a year to two back, and it was a nice shaving razor. A bit more blade feel than a Gillette Slim/Fat-Boy, Progress, or Futur (clone anyway, as I only have the clone), and did give a nice shave. Push come to shove, I couldn't justify the price, given it didn't shave appreciably better than many other less expensive razors. It did have awesome knurling, that even the slickest, soapiest hand in the world wouldn't have trouble holding onto it. Absolutely loved the knurling, and the fit and finish was quite good.

If they can fix any alignment issues, or it is merely a spring that needs to sort of settle into it's own, this might be a tempting alternative. I've tired a few times to buy a Personna Micrometric, however, never managed to snag one of those rare beasts. (They're more rare than the Gibbs, which it was based off of).
Great post! And I know the topic isn’t the Gibbs per se, but gotta say your razor is gorgeous!

Thanks, I never shaved with it, it is for my oldest son when he starts shaving. It was listed as used but came in the original box, had the blade case etc and looked brand new. I took it apart to clean and it was already spotless. I think if it was used at all, it wasn’t more than a few times. The plate and handle look new. My other Gibbs I purchased for myself and my other son had a lot of gunk inside. I love shaving with mine. I became a Gibbs collector after owning the Rex. I prefer the Gibbs.

I have still have the Rex and one beef I have is the inability to disassemble it completely like the Gibbs to clean. From my other Gibbs razors, I know what can collect inside with that design after general use. They’ll probably start getting the service calls in a few years when the gunk starts really settling in on the Rexes. At that point they’ll stop using that thread lock.

I don’t own a Flexi and don’t yet have one ordered but that video set me off. Not Kevy but the linked video. Jostling around that shaft in the baseplate hole without the spring affixed was BS.
 
Thanks, I never shaved with it, it is for my oldest son when he starts shaving. It was listed as used but came in the original box, had the blade case etc and looked brand new. I took it apart to clean and it was already spotless. I think if it was used at all, it wasn’t more than a few times. The plate and handle look new. My other Gibbs I purchased for myself and my other son had a lot of gunk inside. I love shaving with mine. I became a Gibbs collector after owning the Rex. I prefer the Gibbs.

I have still have the Rex and one beef I have is the inability to disassemble it completely like the Gibbs to clean. From my other Gibbs razors, I know what can collect inside with that design after general use. They’ll probably start getting the service calls in a few years when the gunk starts really settling in on the Rexes. At that point they’ll stop using that thread lock.

I don’t own a Flexi and don’t yet have one ordered but that video set me off. Not Kevy but the linked video. Jostling around that shaft in the baseplate hole without the spring affixed was BS.
I’m thinking about buying an ultrasonic cleaner for my vintage Gillette adjustables and my Rex. I’m hoping that keeps the inside junk free.
 
Well, unfortunately, I have the alignment problem with the Flexi I have. I tried working the spring and it helped a bit. Contacted Pearl and the responded quickly with an offer of a replacement razor or refund. I chose a replacement. Now the waiting begins.
Unfortunately, there are many customers with the same problem, and it may seem it's a slightly bigger problem than just the spring. Now we can hope that the company stops sales until they have improved the razor.
 
Well, unfortunately, I have the alignment problem with the Flexi I have. I tried working the spring and it helped a bit. Contacted Pearl and the responded quickly with an offer of a replacement razor or refund. I chose a replacement. Now the waiting begins.
Unfortunately, there are many with the same problem, and it may seem it's a slightly bigger problem than just the spring. I hope they have stopped the sale until the razor is improved
 
I’m thinking about buying an ultrasonic cleaner for my vintage Gillette adjustables and my Rex. I’m hoping that keeps the inside junk free.
Be prepared to re-paint the numbers on the dial if you use an ultrasonic cleaner... It will remove those quicker than any gunk build-up that the razors have.
 
Unfortunately, there are many with the same problem, and it may seem it's a slightly bigger problem than just the spring. I hope they have stopped the sale until the razor is improved
I hope so too. It's a nice looking razor that feels good in hand.
 
I’m thinking about buying an ultrasonic cleaner for my vintage Gillette adjustables and my Rex. I’m hoping that keeps the inside junk free.

The Rex has laser etched numbers so you’ll be fine. If you still have rich numbers on your vintage Gillettes, I’d use a more traditional method of cleaning them up. The ultrasonic cleaners will remove the numbers from the Gillettes. If your numbers are gone, then have fun. After cleaning, get some semi gloss Testors Black paint. Tape above and below your numbers on the dial. Fill in the numbers with the Testors using a q-tip or toothpick, wait one minute then wipe the entire surface with paper towel. Good as new.

To describe the baseplates of the Gibbs and Rex, imagine the neck of the baseplate being like a cup. The more you use the lower settings, the blade trays are pushed up which allow soap, hair and water to gradually work their way in after several years. Water may work it’s way through the bottom of the cup but the soap and hair remain. With one exception, all the Gibbs I purchased had the baseplates filled with hair and old soap. Very easy to clean out but was a bit gross. I got through it because disassembly is easy with the Gibbs. Since I can’t disassemble my Rex, I intentionally hold the head down at angle to one side when I rinse in the sink to prevent anything from going straight down.
 
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The Rex has laser etched numbers so you’ll be fine. If you still have rich numbers on your vintage Gillettes, I’d use a more traditional method of cleaning them up. The ultrasonic cleaners will remove the numbers from the Gillettes. If your numbers are gone, then have fun. After cleaning, get some semi gloss Testors Black paint. Tape above and below your numbers on the dial. Fill in the numbers with the Testors using a q-tip or toothpick, wait one minute then wipe the entire surface with paper towel. Good as new.

To describe the baseplates of the Gibbs and Rex, imagine the neck of the baseplate being like a cup. The more you use the lower settings, the blade trays are pushed up which allow soap, hair and water to gradually work their way in after several years. Water may work it’s way through the bottom of the cup but the soap and hair remain. With one exception, all the Gibbs I purchased had the baseplates filled with hair and old soap. Very easy to clean out but was a bit gross. I got through it because disassembly is easy with the Gibbs. Since I can’t disassemble my Rex, I intentionally hold the head down at angle to one side when I rinse in the sink to prevent anything from going straight down.

Thank you!!!!!
 
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