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Loading Handle w/ Epoxy

Wait. Do I not understand the shelf concept? To my understanding, a shelf was simply where your epoxy ends and what your brush actually glues to.

Am I supposed to use cork as a barrier in between the bulk of the epoxy and where the knot actually glues to?
 
Wait. Do I not understand the shelf concept? To my understanding, a shelf was simply where your epoxy ends and what your brush actually glues to.

Am I supposed to use cork as a barrier in between the bulk of the epoxy and where the knot actually glues to?

You don't have to use anything to make a shelf, you can glue right onto the epoxy. The main reason people use coins and a cork or whatever to make the shelf is it is cheaper than using the whole container of epoxy to fill the handle.
 
You don't have to use anything to make a shelf, you can glue right onto the epoxy. The main reason people use coins and a cork or whatever to make the shelf is it is cheaper than using the whole container of epoxy to fill the handle.

This it's not my reason for making the cork shelf. My reason is to be able to fit everything before doing the final setting. The fitting helps me get the loft locked down. Takes the variability out when setting loft. Otherwise I'd be trying to get the loft right by the amount of epoxy I put in the handle at final setting.
 
I don't have a cork available to me; can you buy a slab of it somewhere? I'd like some also for corking blades.
 
If you are worried about loft height and about doing something wrong, just use a less aggressive glue. Epoxy, IMHO, is overkill.

I have a handle glued into place with Shoe Goo (which is really not a very aggressive glue) and have never had trouble with the knot moving or even hinting at being loose. But, I know that knot will be a lot easier to replace or exchange than my epoxy handles. This way, if you feel like the knot isn’t straight, or you don’t like the height it is sitting at, you are able to take it out again without damaging the knot or handle.

To be clear, I use epoxy most of the time and feel that it is the best permanent solution, but I have been given no indication that it is needed. If ever a knot falls out (which also happens with epoxy), it is easy enough to just glue it back in place:thumbup:
 

Mike H

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Do you have a hot melt glue gun? Works great, I have also used ordinary caulking silicone, and even used bondo before. The only time I had a problem was using two part epoxy, it got hot enough (it is an exothermic reaction) the the base of the handle got soft and deformed a little. Also, I found adding coins or BBs added too much weight for my taste. I have never used cork.
 
Ah! A glue gun sounds like a good idea. Epoxy is intimidating and I really don't want to be stuck at a less than perfect height or not level.

Ill try this first. I'm gonna stop at a hardware store and find some cork too. Thanks again.
 
So I just cut a piece of cork to size and glued the knot in at around 52mm. The hair looks uneven but the knot itself is straight. Time will tell if it comes out alright! Pics soon.
 
You probably have an overly critical eye looking at your first restoration! When it is covered in lather nobody will know the difference! I don't know if any knot has perfect symmetry.
 
You probably have an overly critical eye looking at your first restoration! When it is covered in lather nobody will know the difference!

Shanna? I thought you were sleeping.

My girlfriend said the same thing. I took out the knot and it was because the cork wasn't even to begin with. So I filled up the gap with epoxy and laid on a flat surface :)

Gonna try again tomorrow
 
I'm not sure that I said it here but I must have in another thread. You can simply allow the epoxy to cure to a nice level surface and than affix the knot to it. The only issue with this would be if the knot plug isn't level on the bottom itself.
 
Another dilemma: I think I'm go ma use this new handle!!
 

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To set the loft, I usually stack pennies and/or dimes. That way I can play with combinations and usually get it just right. Since I like my handles weighted, the coins work out well, and they get glued into the handle. In my latest restore, I didn't want so much weight, and I wanted it weighted more toward the middle. Solution: I laid down a layer of epoxy and let it dry. Then I took a stack of pennies and glued them together, and then glued them on top of the bottom cured epoxy layer. After that set, I filled the handle up with epoxy to just over the top of the pennies and then set the knot. Result: a weighted and balanced brush using a cheap, plastic old ER handle (buffed out, of course).

Also, I use the Loctite 5 min. epoxy with the syringe. It works very well and you can pin-point your application.
 
Hmmm...I just tape up the handle to secure against drops and use the popsicle/mixing stick to scoop it up and load the handle. Use a twisting motion to keep it from dripping.
this is what i did, with the exception of the tape, if you peel off the over flow in time nothing sticks, there appears to be a natural oil or slickness in badger the epoxy for me did not seem to want to stick to it in the soft rubbery stage
 
Prebloom completed project. I made the shelf with epoxy and it is now straight!! Thank you guys for all the help. Very appreciated and I learned a lot!! Also the handle on the right is 24mm so another knot is required. The boar is too crappy.
 

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That's a good looking brush and a great looking knot! Glad the shelf ended up working the way you wanted in the end.
 
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