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Le Grelot - back from the dead

My weapon of choice - worn out DMT 325. By using the edges of the DMT I was able to do massive corrective work to the blade faces. The blade’s spine would be off the hone, and by moving the spine further away from the hone I was able to make contact with all parts of the blade’s faces. I’ve never seen this method done before, but it works amazingly well and is INCREDIBLY fast. I mean about a hundred times faster than the 40 grit alum. oxide sandpaper I made an attempt with. Also, since the edge of the DMT is flat, you don’t have to worry about divots in your blade face that might come about when you sand too much in one place.

After using wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a synthetic wine cork, I am intrigued by your method. When you say DMT 325, do you mean one of the 8" bench stones or the credit card sized sharpeners? And how do you hold the razor and the plate? in your hands or with the plate laying on surface?

Any chance you could post a photo showing how the razor and plate interact?
 
After using wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a synthetic wine cork, I am intrigued by your method. When you say DMT 325, do you mean one of the 8" bench stones or the credit card sized sharpeners? And how do you hold the razor and the plate? in your hands or with the plate laying on surface?

Any chance you could post a photo showing how the razor and plate interact?

Absolutely, someone asked that same question in another restoration thread of mine. I detailed the process here: Lotus, fabrication d'art - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/lotus-fabrication-dart.575194/

You can take off a lot of material very fast, and I’m sure it would work with an atoma as well.
 
That is way cool, @musicman980! And you just gave me another reason for buying an Atoma 400 :).

I also see that you use circular motions. Having used with-the-grind motions with P100 and P220 wet/dry, this makes a lot of sense to me.

Thanks for sharing this one!
 
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