Introduction
Back in October, @Sirocco generously provided a sample of Bull and Bell shaving soap for me to try. (Thanks, Brad!) Below are my lather optimization results for the soap, as published in my lather optimization guide in the ShaveWiki. The latest update of the new performance ranking table is also included. (I know that some of you want numbers, not words, and maybe I'll get there, but at least I'm updating this table and not copying over the optimum lather table.)
Bull and Bell currently ranks in 8th place out of 21. It is a pretty good to good soap with what can be called a wide performance window with respect to hydration, and it was surprising to finally encounter bimodal behavior with a shaving soap or cream.
Bull and Bell Premium Supply Co. Shaving Soap
Top view of original jar and close-up of soap in small jar
Version Name: Original Barbershop
Purchase Date: October 9, 2018. A sample was received on October 14, 2018, from @Sirocco, who generously donated the soap for evaluation. The sample was then placed in a small jar and photographed. The photograph of the original container was taken by @Sirocco.
Review Period: December 31, 2018, to January 14, 2019. 12 optimization shaves and 2 ranking tests.
Manufacturing Location: Hampton, NH, USA
Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Hydroxide, Coconut Oil, Mango Butter, Tallow, Glycerin, Tussah Silk, Cherry Kernel Oil, Fragrance [Note: This formulation has been superseded]
Appearance: Brown
Scent: Officially described as a "vintage fragrance" that "begins with the light scent of Merlot and finishes with the aromas of talcum, amber, rum and musk", the scent was pleasant to me
Hardness: Average, based on my experience
Optimum Lather Overview: Sheen is okay or pretty good. Lather has some good peaks and yogurt-like behavior of stringiness. Adhesion and application are okay to pretty good. The scent is slightly noticeable. Slickness is generally pretty good to good with some very good slickness, some okay slickness, and a little moderate friction. Cushion/protection is pretty good or good. Post-shave is good with respect to moisture and okay or pretty good with respect to comfort because of low-level irritation.
Optimization Details: The water-to-soap ratio was nonsequentially varied from 7 (with 1.22 g soap and 8.54 g water) to 22 (with 0.44 g soap and 9.68 g water): 10, 14, 18, 22, 8, 12, 16, 11, 9, 7, 8, 10. The optimum total mass was found to be slightly less than 10 g for my face, and while lather-building time was varied from 60 seconds to 120 seconds, using just enough time to fully incorporate the soap was found to be best for lather performance. While the optimum water-to-soap ratio was found to be around 9 (with 0.98 g soap and 8.82 g water), lather performance was found to be bimodal with a lesser optimum around a ratio of 16 to 18. The optimum water-to-soap ratio was felt to be around 9 because of the balance of richness, slickness, cushion/protection, and post-shave, and as the water-to-soap ratio increased, slickness generally increased, cushion/protection decreased, and post-shave decreased. However, around a water-to-soap ratio of 16 to 18, lather performance had a local peak with respect to slickness and post-shave quality. I knew that such behavior was always possible with a soap or cream, but this was the first time that I experienced it. Given that the slickness was nominally good at a water-to-soap ratio of 7 and generally okay to pretty good at a water-to-soap ratio of 22, and post-shave varied less than this, the soap could be said as having a wide performance window.
Ranking Details: Two ranking tests were performed, comparing sequential shaves with optimum lathers of all soaps involved. The first ranking test was against Saponificio Varesino (SV). Slickness with SV had more highs and more lows, but the overall slickness seemed similar. The cushion from SV definitely felt better. Post-shave moisture was better, though, with Bull and Bell. Post-shave comfort was similar with some irritation, but irritation crept in with SV after the shave, while irritation really started during the shave with Bull and Bell. Overall, Bull and Bell edged out SV. The second ranking test was against Stirling. Slickness with Stirling was better than with Bull and Bell, but cushion/protection was better with Bull and Bell. Post-shave moisture was similar, and post-shave comfort was similar, too, but better with Stirling, and there was no irritation during the shave like I felt with Bull and Bell. Overall, it was close, closer than it may seem by my choice of words. I gave the edge to Stirling because of the better slickness and comfort, which outweighed the lack in cushion/protection.
Performance Ranking Table
I think people will find this table more informative, and less chance of misinterpreting what the table is meant to signify.
