Lapping film, try it.

[Slash McCoy]

Yes you have a compound bevel. Sort of. Keep honing with consistent light pressure and the main bevel will expand out to the edge. When it goes all the way out on both sides and meets at a good apex, you have a proper bevel. You may need to back down to the next coarser grit.

 

[mmrmm]

Will do. Now that I can also see I should be able to set a proper bevel.

Given what you can see, would you go to 30u or stick (even if it takes longer) with 15u?

 

[Slash McCoy]

Your call but I think I would lean toward 15u, to keep the scratch depth down. Use the burr method but not too much pressure, honing the incomplete side first. The weight of your whole arm until you just feel a burr. Then the other side of the blade same pressure and same number of laps. Then after you have done both sides go back to the first side and with reduced pressure, about the weight of your forearm, hone until you have a burr along the full length of the blade. Then once again do the second side same number of laps and feel for burr. If it is not there along the entire length of the blade, go more until it does, then equalize the laps by hitting the first side with the difference. Next, just hone, with regular alternating laps, gradually reducing pressure to the weight of the razor plus a finger's weight. Give it some pull strokes, about a half dozen per side, alternating. This strips any remaining bits of burr. Then about two dozen SHORT x strokes with just the weight of the razor. This peaks the apex back up. Examine your edge and you should see a complete bevel. If you do this right, you should be able to shave with the razor even if the shave is far from perfect or enjoyable. With a good bevel you have a chance. With a poor bevel you will never have a great edge.

Before you do this I suggest you read the thread "Setting the Bevel with the Burr Method" from beginning to end. If you have already read it, read it again. Read and heed before you do the deed.

 

[mmrmm]

Done. I believe it looks a lot better. Shave test tbd.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Top pic could still use a little work, maybe. But may as well shave test it first. How well does it treetop?

 

[mmrmm]

I know it is stupid, but I struggle with the treetop test - but it easily cut a few hairs with no effort. Shave test was great!

Now I will try to maintain with dry strop before shaving, and with crox (only paste I have for now) on balsa followed by dry strop after shaving. Curious to see how long it will last with this kind of maintenance.

 

[rbscebu]

I know it is stupid, but I struggle with the treetop test - but it easily cut a few hairs with no effort. Shave test was great!

Now I will try to maintain with dry strop before shaving, and with crox (only paste I have for now) on balsa followed by dry strop after shaving. Curious to see how long it will last with this kind of maintenance.

Congratulations on getting to where you are now. Once you have finished your honing on the 1.0um film, you can progress to diamond pasted balsa strops. By following the pasted balsa stroppping part of the compendium, your edge will only improve even more.

Once you get your diamond pastes, relap the balsa strop with the CrO2. You can then apply the 0.5um only to that balsa strop. Do not use that balsa strop with the 0.25um or the 0.1um pastes. If you have read the pasted balsa strop thread, you will understand why.

 

[GermanShaver!]

Hey,

so I am thinking about pickung up a gold dollar 66. Obviously the edge seems to be not shave ready. So I was thinking about learning to hone it and learn straight razor shaving with it. Since I don't have a lot of money I don't want to invest into expensive finishing whetstones. What I own at the moment is a 1000/6000 King KDS whetstone, which has been used to sharpem kitchen knives. So I assume that this is either not suitable or i nead to flatten it? (Would flatteing with sandpaper on a granit countertop do?). Since I've read that bevel-setting should be idealy done on a whetstone, because lapping film won't last long, I would either use my 1000/6000 stone or buy a new King 1000 KDS or a naniwa 1000/3000 econonmical stone. As far as lapping film is concerned I could pick up a set of 9,5,3,1,0.3,0.05 Mic 3M AluminumOxide lapping film for 20$, which I guess should be more than enough, right? Anther question would be what surface to lay the lapping film on to. Would my granite countertop or a flat tile do?

 

[Tanuki]

Hey,

so I am thinking about pickung up a gold dollar 66. Obviously the edge seems to be not shave ready. So I was thinking about learning to hone it and learn straight razor shaving with it. Since I don't have a lot of money I don't want to invest into expensive finishing whetstones. What I own at the moment is a 1000/6000 King KDS whetstone, which has been used to sharpem kitchen knives. So I assume that this is either not suitable or i nead to flatten it? (Would flatteing with sandpaper on a granit countertop do?). Since I've read that bevel-setting should be idealy done on a whetstone, because lapping film won't last long, I would either use my 1000/6000 stone or buy a new King 1000 KDS or a naniwa 1000/3000 econonmical stone. As far as lapping film is concerned I could pick up a set of 9,5,3,1,0.3,0.05 Mic 3M AluminumOxide lapping film for 20$, which I guess should be more than enough, right? Anther question would be what surface to lay the lapping film on to. Would my granite countertop or a flat tile do?

Sounds like you have done most of your research. I personally recommend learning SR shaving with a shave ready razor, while learning honing with a razor you will only use for test shaves. The shave ready razor will help you understand your honing goal.

My 2¢:
Get a granite tile for flattening and for supporting your films. Protect your countertop! Sandpaper will do for flattening.

Yes, that is plenty of film. Naniwa a good stones with a generally good reputation. I use a Naniwa 12k for some of my finishing and touch up.

I believe that Slash McCoy sells shave ready GDs somewhere on the bay. He might even sell you hone ready GD with the stabilizer fixed.

You don't mention a strop. Get at least an inexpensive horsehide strop.

I personally like my diamond pasted strop progression for easy edge maintenance. Much faster than going back to the film.

 

[GermanShaver!]

Sounds like you have done most of your research. I personally recommend learning SR shaving with a shave ready razor, while learning honing with a razor you will only use for test shaves. The shave ready razor will help you understand your honing goal.

My 2¢:
Get a granite tile for flattening and for supporting your films. Protect your countertop! Sandpaper will do for flattening.

Yes, that is plenty of film. Naniwa a good stones with a generally good reputation. I use a Naniwa 12k for some of my finishing and touch up.

I believe that Slash McCoy sells shave ready GDs somewhere on the bay. He might even sell you hone ready GD with the stabilizer fixed.

You don't mention a strop. Get at least an inexpensive horsehide strop.

I personally like my diamond pasted strop progression for easy edge maintenance. Much faster than going back to the film.

Hi,

thanks for the quick reply. Forgot to mention that I got a shavette that takes half de blades. I think should work to rate sharpness. As for laying down the lapping film I was thinking about a tile like this? Wandfliese 'Malta' grau, marmoriert 25 x 20 cm - https://toom.de/p/wandfliese-malta-grau-marmoriert-25-x-20-cm/2050449

 

[Tanuki]

Hi,

thanks for the quick reply. Forgot to mention that I got a shavette that takes half de blades. I think should work to rate sharpness. As for laying down the lapping film I was thinking about a tile like this? Wandfliese 'Malta' grau, marmoriert 25 x 20 cm - https://toom.de/p/wandfliese-malta-grau-marmoriert-25-x-20-cm/2050449

That 20x25cm size is good, but a stone (granite or marble) tile will be much flatter than any ceramic.

US auction sites are a bit far away for you. I think a shavette is fine for setting the sharpness expectation. I started open blade shaving with a Focus Slim Al, which I still enjoy using.

I have no idea what the German/European used vintage razor market is like, but I am imagining you surrounded by classic German and French razors that need a little restoration. Once you have finished with your practice razor you may be in vintage SR heaven.

 

[GermanShaver!]

That 20x25cm size is good, but a stone (granite or marble) tile will be much flatter than any ceramic.

US auction sites are a bit far away for you. I think a shavette is fine for setting the sharpness expectation. I started open blade shaving with a Focus Slim Al, which I still enjoy using.

I have no idea what the German/European used vintage razor market is like, but I am imagining you surrounded by classic German and French razors that need a little restoration. Once you have finished with your practice razor you may be in vintage SR heaven.

I'm a bit scared to ruin a piece of craftsmanship and history. But would something like this work?

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And what would be problematic with spraying my counter with water, laying down the lapping film and honing the razor on there. I'm on a tight budget and would like to avoid additional cost.

 

[Tanuki]

That razor might work. The key to buying used razors is the edge. Make sure the edge is straight and undamaged, and that it doesn't suffer from anything other than superficial corrosion. Deeper corrosion ('edge rot') will either require too much steel removal, or may not be salvageable at all.

As for your stone counter, it might not be the most convenient spot, but it will work as a flat surface if you can work comfortably at it. For working on a single razor that doesn't need a lot of steel removed, it should be fine.

 

[Slash McCoy]

That's what I've been telling folks for years...

I happen to really like the velvety feel the lapping films have for feedback.

Have you tried the wet paper under the finisher trick yet?

Long time no see!

Have you tried the pasted balsa Method finish yet?

 

[Slash McCoy]

Hey,

so I am thinking about pickung up a gold dollar 66. Obviously the edge seems to be not shave ready. So I was thinking about learning to hone it and learn straight razor shaving with it. Since I don't have a lot of money I don't want to invest into expensive finishing whetstones. What I own at the moment is a 1000/6000 King KDS whetstone, which has been used to sharpem kitchen knives. So I assume that this is either not suitable or i nead to flatten it? (Would flatteing with sandpaper on a granit countertop do?). Since I've read that bevel-setting should be idealy done on a whetstone, because lapping film won't last long, I would either use my 1000/6000 stone or buy a new King 1000 KDS or a naniwa 1000/3000 econonmical stone. As far as lapping film is concerned I could pick up a set of 9,5,3,1,0.3,0.05 Mic 3M AluminumOxide lapping film for 20$, which I guess should be more than enough, right? Anther question would be what surface to lay the lapping film on to. Would my granite countertop or a flat tile do?

Save yourself a LOT of frustration and probable failure, and start with a shave ready razor. I know it seems backwards, but seriously, it is waaaaaaay easier to learn to shave with a shave ready razor first, and THEN learn how to make it and keep it shave ready. Even with LOTS of coaching and hand holding here, a lot of guys who start out trying to hone and then trying to shave with what they honed, give up, after spending more money than they would have spent just getting a shave ready razor and setting up a set of balsa strops.

 

[McBlade]

I got a shavette that takes half de blades. I think should work to rate sharpness.

IMO DE blades in a shavette are WAY too sharp for a comfortable shave. I got my first straight after I'd been using a shavette for a couple of weeks or so. Although I could get a decent shave with the shavette, it was a bit like shaving with angry bees. Zero margin of error. Even a Derby Extra felt wickedly sharp.

By contrast a straight razor with a mild edge can give you a very, safe comfortable shave.

After a few weeks learning how to shave with a straight razor I tried my shavette again, using exactly the same touch & feel I'd developed for the straight.

How did that go? After the shave I had to wipe blood off the wall. I'm not joking.

Obviously it was my fault for not adjusting my technique to "angry bee" mode. You can get a good shave with a half-DE shavette but I'd much, much rather pick up a straight with a milder edge.

 

[Tanuki]

You can get a good shave with a half-DE shavette but I'd much, much rather pick up a straight with a milder edge.

There might be differences among half-blade DE shavettes as well. I much prefer my Focus Slim Al to my heavier zamak Chinese half-blade shavette. Might be the weight, might be the blade exposure, might be blade security, or it might be that a preferred razor always gets more frequent use and better attention during the shave.

 

[McBlade]

I ordered a Feather DX clone recently so I could experiment with Feather AC-style blades. Schick proline and Kai mild might be a bit more forgiving.

And of course the Feather AC SS is designed to provide some protection with a little "bump" behind the edge.

It's all about user preference though. Maybe I'll like sharper blades more when I've had time to develop better skills.

 

[Slash McCoy]

IMO DE blades in a shavette are WAY too sharp for a comfortable shave. I got my first straight after I'd been using a shavette for a couple of weeks or so. Although I could get a decent shave with the shavette, it was a bit like shaving with angry bees. Zero margin of error. Even a Derby Extra felt wickedly sharp.

By contrast a straight razor with a mild edge can give you a very, safe comfortable shave.

After a few weeks learning how to shave with a straight razor I tried my shavette again, using exactly the same touch & feel I'd developed for the straight.

How did that go? After the shave I had to wipe blood off the wall. I'm not joking.

Obviously it was my fault for not adjusting my technique to "angry bee" mode. You can get a good shave with a half-DE shavette but I'd much, much rather pick up a straight with a milder edge.

Keep the spine down low to the skin, and stretch good. I find a Feather DE half blade in an ordinary cheep Chinese swing-back shavette to be a fairly nice shave. You are doing something wrong, there. I suspect your shave angle. You are used to very mild edges on regular straight razors, and so you are accustomed to an extremely high shave angle, probably well over one spine thickness. That works, with a dull-ish blade. With a sharp blade, you got to tighten up your shave angle and tighten up that skin or you will pay the blood sacrifice.

 

[Willem-Jan]

Hi,

thanks for the quick reply. Forgot to mention that I got a shavette that takes half de blades. I think should work to rate sharpness. As for laying down the lapping film I was thinking about a tile like this? Wandfliese 'Malta' grau, marmoriert 25 x 20 cm - https://toom.de/p/wandfliese-malta-grau-marmoriert-25-x-20-cm/2050449

the flattest thing you can buy is floating glass i think.