very interested in this.
just need my local hobby store to come out of lockdown......
thinking about an 8k soon too so with new/old junker blades I can get to know progression changes. so it would run 4/5k, 8k, 12k, 14k
camo
Last edited:
Lapping film, try it.
- Thread starter Blix
- Start date
very interested in this.
just need my local hobby store to come out of lockdown......
thinking about an 8k soon too so with new/old junker blades I can get to know progression changes. so it would run 4/5k, 8k, 12k, 14k
camo
If you get a good 8k result, you can skip the 12k.
a friend gave me a few sheets of lapping film from specialized.net. i previoulsly have used 3M and currently using nonlaptech films. i found that the specialized.net film feel coarser than others. the film did wear in, sort of film slurry. i compared shaves and could not tell difference between companies. curious if any one has similar comparison?
My understanding is that for the best results the balsa strop must be kept at a vertical angle.
Which is the upper side of the balsa, the one close to you or the other?
You can sell them to me!
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
Read here.
How To Use a Pasted Balsa Strop
Having gone into some detail when asked or prompted in many threads, I thought I should comprehensively lay out the method in a separate thread, for reference. Thing 1. The Balsa Strop. Buy 3" wide balsa. Best to buy a 36" length. It is cheaper. Hobby Hut, Hobby Lobby, and other brick and...
www.badgerandblade.com
my lapping films are on their way..
On @Slash McCoy YT videos, when he is setting up the bevel on the 30u , he is doing back and forward laps on each side, with each stroke edge leading (forward lap) and spine leading (backward lap).
In the thread there is no mention of this.
Was the technique necessary for that specific razor (gold dollar)?
On @Slash McCoy YT videos, when he is setting up the bevel on the 30u , he is doing back and forward laps on each side, with each stroke edge leading (forward lap) and spine leading (backward lap).
In the thread there is no mention of this.
Was the technique necessary for that specific razor (gold dollar)?
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
It's just a bit faster, is all. A lot of steel has to come off of a fresh out of the box GD66, and back when those vids were made, even more. The grinding has improved quite a bit since then. That razor used to be pretty bad in that regard which is part of why so many guys started modding/regrinding them. When setting the bevel on that and similar razors, I suggest the burr method, or the hybrid burr method, but use whatever stroke you like. Straight back and forth, oval, edge leading only, whatever you like. Or a combination. Whatever.
Ok , I'm going to set up the bevel on a vintage Solingen in a very good shape, I guess I don't need such aggressive approach and normal edge leading strokes will do it.
i just returned to straight razors after a three-four month hiatus. The first shave was rough and I realized that not only had my straight razor shaving technique gone downhill but also my film lapping and balsa stropping was not up to par. After a quick review of Slash McCoy's posts/YouTube videos and a little elbow grease, my Tanifuji Max-fli 3000 was once again topping trees with a delightful pinging sound. If you put in the time and effort to learn, these teachings are priceless. Thank you again, Slash McCoy!
First and foremost, great thread! Thank you all, especially Slash McCoy!
Just ordered the gear. Also a Gold Dollar N71 razor to start playing before I even consider touching my brand new TI which I bought shave ready.
If I understand, to maintain I should use the 3u-1u method, plus dry strop before and after every shave of course.
For the whole process, from 30u progress down to 3u-1u.
Question is, how will I know what the this razor will need? Could I feel if it is good enough to work 3u-1u alone? Would not want to do the whole thing if not needed....
On another angle, not sure if there is a way to “reset” the razor so that I would know it needs the whole process.
Thanks, help welcome!
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Just ordered the gear. Also a Gold Dollar N71 razor to start playing before I even consider touching my brand new TI which I bought shave ready.
If I understand, to maintain I should use the 3u-1u method, plus dry strop before and after every shave of course.
For the whole process, from 30u progress down to 3u-1u.
Question is, how will I know what the this razor will need? Could I feel if it is good enough to work 3u-1u alone? Would not want to do the whole thing if not needed....
On another angle, not sure if there is a way to “reset” the razor so that I would know it needs the whole process.
Thanks, help welcome!
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There a more than a few threads on honing a wedge. I was wondering if there are any special advice regarding using a lapping film to hone a wedge.
Thanks for the answer!
Is this razor a wedge? Don’t even know what it is... 6/8?
Will try to find more about honing a wedge in that case.
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Is this razor a wedge? Don’t even know what it is... 6/8?
Will try to find more about honing a wedge in that case.
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The Gold Dollar N71 looks somewhat hollow ground to me, not a wedge razor.Thanks for the answer!
Is this razor a wedge? Don’t even know what it is... 6/8?
Will try to find more about honing a wedge in that case.
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That is what I thought as well.
Does anyone know or can guess the size? 6/8?
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Does anyone know or can guess the size? 6/8?
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This week I decided to start my honing experience, with film!
Created a side thread mainly to discuss material procurement, which was one my main frustrations.
I would like to hereby THANK THE EXPERTS that helped me out, as well as to leave a few words on how the experience went. In short, it shaves!
WHAT WENT WELL
1. Satisfaction of getting it done
2. Hand held honing plates I found, flat and light weighted
3. Easy to learn technique, at a newbie level
WHAT WENT BAD
1. PSA film. Terrible. Higher grades were actually plastic backed, so I found out later on that I could use them without peeling the plastic. Very thin glue, even enough. Perfectly flat. The lower grits were paper backed, had to peel off. That glue did not seem very evenly set, so peeling was really a must. A lot of effort to glue on the glass, but afterwards, all good. Not worth the effort IMO. Really hard to procure decent film, to ship here. Unless from China, which I am afraid due to quality control and takes ages. Found one single seller in Europe, will try him out and report if it helps others.
2. Too much pressure. I had a hard time in keeping the pressure light, was afraid to allow the spine to lift. Did the whole process twice, because I found after the first round that the results with just ok. Second round a lot faster and was able to keep the pressure light. Much better results.
3. Finalize each grade with pull strokes was ok, but the subsequent x-strokes took my confidence away. X-strokes make me feel I am lifting the spine and ruining everything. Need to practice more.
WHAT I WANT TO DO NEXT
1. Ability to see what I am doing. Ordered some gear to magnify and be sure when I am ready to move to a next stage. Besides the bevel setting with that foolproof method, other stages I felt I was moving with my fingers crossed. Even if I say that blade was starting to lift all the water and sludge. I felt no real suction I must admit.
2. I still see some scratches on the edge, not sure from which step. The ability to see just mentioned above could help me here.
2. As I understand the finishing stages are a bit personal, I want to try different combinations. Today I finished with 1u, then with lather on, then dry strop and shave. Was ok, similar to my other straight that came really shave-ready. Perhaps next time I redo the 3u and 1u to ensure same conditions, add cr-ox. Another possibility add wet paper under 1u, after I get non-PSA film of course. Perhaps 0.3u, even with low expectation from all I read - the kit I found includes this grade anyway. Want to feel the differences to learn what I am doing and also to chose what works better for me.
Great experience!
Had some fun after the inicial irritation due to the material procurement, at some point I even had the PSA film glued to my arm hairs by accident! Let’s just say that one of my arms is less hairy now, but not due to the HHT....
Looking forward to get better at it!
Created a side thread mainly to discuss material procurement, which was one my main frustrations.
I would like to hereby THANK THE EXPERTS that helped me out, as well as to leave a few words on how the experience went. In short, it shaves!
WHAT WENT WELL
1. Satisfaction of getting it done
2. Hand held honing plates I found, flat and light weighted
3. Easy to learn technique, at a newbie level
WHAT WENT BAD
1. PSA film. Terrible. Higher grades were actually plastic backed, so I found out later on that I could use them without peeling the plastic. Very thin glue, even enough. Perfectly flat. The lower grits were paper backed, had to peel off. That glue did not seem very evenly set, so peeling was really a must. A lot of effort to glue on the glass, but afterwards, all good. Not worth the effort IMO. Really hard to procure decent film, to ship here. Unless from China, which I am afraid due to quality control and takes ages. Found one single seller in Europe, will try him out and report if it helps others.
2. Too much pressure. I had a hard time in keeping the pressure light, was afraid to allow the spine to lift. Did the whole process twice, because I found after the first round that the results with just ok. Second round a lot faster and was able to keep the pressure light. Much better results.
3. Finalize each grade with pull strokes was ok, but the subsequent x-strokes took my confidence away. X-strokes make me feel I am lifting the spine and ruining everything. Need to practice more.
WHAT I WANT TO DO NEXT
1. Ability to see what I am doing. Ordered some gear to magnify and be sure when I am ready to move to a next stage. Besides the bevel setting with that foolproof method, other stages I felt I was moving with my fingers crossed. Even if I say that blade was starting to lift all the water and sludge. I felt no real suction I must admit.
2. I still see some scratches on the edge, not sure from which step. The ability to see just mentioned above could help me here.
2. As I understand the finishing stages are a bit personal, I want to try different combinations. Today I finished with 1u, then with lather on, then dry strop and shave. Was ok, similar to my other straight that came really shave-ready. Perhaps next time I redo the 3u and 1u to ensure same conditions, add cr-ox. Another possibility add wet paper under 1u, after I get non-PSA film of course. Perhaps 0.3u, even with low expectation from all I read - the kit I found includes this grade anyway. Want to feel the differences to learn what I am doing and also to chose what works better for me.
Great experience!
Had some fun after the inicial irritation due to the material procurement, at some point I even had the PSA film glued to my arm hairs by accident! Let’s just say that one of my arms is less hairy now, but not due to the HHT....
Looking forward to get better at it!
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
Don't knock the Chinese film. I have always used it and never had a problem with the quality. Yes, shipping can be a pain as it can take a month or two, even just over the pond to the Philippines. I just make sure that I have stock on hand and reorder well in advance.
Hi all. I honed my Joseph Rodgers & Sons straight today. Back in 2014 I had messed it up with my kitchen knife jig by putting a roughly 30 degree bevel on it just as an experiment. Today I pulled out my float glass flat plate and worked my way through 320 to 1500 grits of wet/dry paper just to rebuild the edge from scratch, using the backbone of the knife as the guide to get the proper angle. Then I used 5um and 3um lapping film to get a real mirror shine on the repaired edge. After stropping with canvas and leather it shaved great! I know this is old hat to most of the readers on this forum, but I got a kick out of doing test shaves along the way and discovering that it really didn’t shave at all until I got to the 5-micron lapping stage (by my calculations roughly equivalent to a 5000 grit stone). Now it’s working better than the disposable blades in my Parker SR1.
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Some pics of my first edge.
I intended to check out the scratch pattern, but now I seem to see some kind of double edge on one side? Last 2 pics.
I intended to check out the scratch pattern, but now I seem to see some kind of double edge on one side? Last 2 pics.
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
Time for the Sharpie again.
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