I have an Arkansas Translucent I want to be sure is flat before using. Tradionally I use 600 WD sandpaper for the task. Alas, none is to be had today. I have 220, 400, even 1500..no 600 though. Question: Is it some hard-fast rule to use 600 grip for lapping stones which are pretty much flat?
Lapping Arkansas (and other) Stones with W/D
- Thread starter Acmemfg
- Start date
I find without checking my stones with a known straight edge I won't KNOW whether they are flat. I resisted for some time purchasing a verified straight edge, since this acquisition I learned just how erroneous my assumptions about how "flat" my stones were.
Once operationally flat what you use to prepare the surface is up to what you like in performance from your particular stones surface.
For instance.
I have a two sided vintage Norton Hard black that works well w/ one side freshly finished w/600 grit W/D, the other finished w/1500 and then broken in some. This has become my go-to travel system for maintaining razors on the road.
The 600 side cuts well w/ just water and the other side finishes to an outstanding level, I would not assume this would work on someone else's stone.
Once operationally flat what you use to prepare the surface is up to what you like in performance from your particular stones surface.
For instance.
I have a two sided vintage Norton Hard black that works well w/ one side freshly finished w/600 grit W/D, the other finished w/1500 and then broken in some. This has become my go-to travel system for maintaining razors on the road.
The 600 side cuts well w/ just water and the other side finishes to an outstanding level, I would not assume this would work on someone else's stone.
I would say use very coarse to get to flat then dress it a little fine.
It will eat TONS of w/d before getting anywhere. Get some loose silicon carbide.
No hard and fast rules for Arks. 600 is the preferred final dressing grit for many. Finish dressing on 400 is ok but a little aggressive feeling on the blade. That feeling won't last too long. Like Stone and Strop says, Arks eat W/D for breakfast. I only go to fixed grit W/D after flattening on loose grit.
I prefer a piece of granite tile and Sic powder to lap Arkies. Its inexpensive and lasts a long time. 240-800 grit would be fine. It only takes a tablespoon or so of each grit unless really dished.
How long does the loose Sic tend to last before it's no longer cutting on an average hard ark with a tbsp? Is the sic overcome by the volume of the loose novaculite or does the sic actually break down too? for those that use loose sic on float glass, does it abrade the glass as quickly as the stones?
In my experience the sludge that is a byproduct of the lapping fouls the process before the grit loses its cutting ability. Try to keep the sludge wet enough it can still cut while not rinsing it away at the same time. I usually add add a teaspoon or so of powder after a few minutes and see where the flatness of the stone is at.
The SiC does abrade the glass but at a slower rate than the stone.
The SiC does abrade the glass but at a slower rate than the stone.
So when i was watching the videos on making newton lenses, it showed that the top glass or stone piece became or was the tool to shape the bottom piece.
is that what you see or is the placement not an issue?
is that what you see or is the placement not an issue?
If you don’t make use of the entire lapping plate equally you will cause the plate to dish and as the bottom plate dishes the top stone will follow becoming convex.
It will pretty much concave the granite no matter what over time, but single tiles that are flat enough are cheaply had.
I’ve started using a big piece of glass on a folding table outside. The bigger work area stays flat longer and I can lap faster and also hose it all clean when finished. I love using sic to lap but it is a project cleaning up all the grit and spatter if done indoors. I don’t want rogue SiC particles interfering with my honing. Just one piece of grit can can leave a nasty scratch and nick in the bevel.
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Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
400 grit paper will work just fine for flattening. Then jump to your 1500 to start the burnishing process, and finally hone a big SS chef knife or similar blade on it. It will then smooth out nicely and after a good bit of rubbing it will get nice and glossy. I have no experience with powders for lapping so I can only speculate. One thing about the sandpaper is that the lapping plate never wears and never gets dished. With powder I would change the glass after a dozen or so razors but that's just me. SiC is a tried and tested method with many adherants.
400 grit if it's well out would take a cost prohibitive amount of sandpaper. Best way I have found is in increments. Sic on granite or glass, followed by a plate I know is flat with a coarse high quality wet dry with sic media and more loose thrown on top, after that fixed grit coarse to finish reeling in the low corners and then start refining once it reads flat.
Didnt mean to hijack OPs thread with some of my slightly off-topic questions.
I’m trying to apply the same concepts to a non flat surface and make sure i measure twice and cut once and learn before i mess something up like usually happens.
I’m trying to apply the same concepts to a non flat surface and make sure i measure twice and cut once and learn before i mess something up like usually happens.
ive used a couple different WD grits on granite/marble.
over time I've felt improvement with ultra fine blk ark I have.
running hunting knife over it afterwards helps smooth things out even more. im starting to prefer these as a finish edge.
will keep an eye on this thread for sure.
camo
over time I've felt improvement with ultra fine blk ark I have.
running hunting knife over it afterwards helps smooth things out even more. im starting to prefer these as a finish edge.
will keep an eye on this thread for sure.
camo
Does anyone use Atoma diamond plates for refreshing and final dressing? Or does the ark kill the expensive plate too quickly?
Does anyone use Atoma diamond plates for refreshing and final dressing or does the ark kill the expensive plate too quickly?
Its my experience that the Atoma doesn't always match well to the flat surface left by using lapping powder and there is a fair amount of resurfacing to match the Atoma so I go straight to burnishing with a chisel after using lapping powers.
I use a heavily worn diamond plate to refresh soft arks and washita's. I wouldn't use any diamond plate a cared about though.
