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I'm kind of excited to try this all out... There's something about the honing process that's very appealing.
I thought about the Spyderco, but for the most part they seemed to be thin and would require an X honing pattern, which I didn't want... I really am coming into honing for the first time though, so we shall see how it plays out
And I think I've decided to go the sandpaper route--I know I've been flip-flopping. But it's just more cost effective. My only concern is not knowing when the hone is completely lapped. Is it possible to overlap? For example, if I just keep running the hone over the sandpaper for hours, can I assume it's good to go? I don't mind doing it for an hour a night for a week even before using it
So, just to be sure I have this all down:
I get some wet/dry sandpaper, and I have a glass coffee table that I dont mind scratching...so I wet the paper and stick it to the table, then I draw the pencil grid on the hone, wet it, and rub it over the sandpaper until desired lapping is complete?
Basically using a product that doesn't need lapped . Or if it ever does I send it to Spyderco for a free new stone .
And the diamond part , as we all know not much out there is harder . And using it with a much softer material like HCS you get micro chipping . Due to the extreme hardness of the diamond chips used as abrasives . YMMV of course .
cityjim
Paper towels it is.
OK, OK, final question, I'm almost sure! Am I supposed to round the edges? And if so, does that just mean taking a couple seconds to run the edges along the paper?
http://straightrazorplace.com/srpwiki/index.php/Hone_Lapping_101So, just to be sure I have this all down:
I don't understand how the hardness of the abrasive leads to microchipping. Perhaps you want to explain the process of the abrading of steel in a bit more detail and walk me through the logic. I am rather interested because as I said it's not something I have observed.And using it with a much softer material like HCS you get micro chipping . Due to the extreme hardness of the diamond chips used as abrasives . YMMV of course .
Any stone that can abrade metal, contains particles that are far harder than the steel. The spyderco hone is darn near diamond on the mohs scale, so hardness is a moot point by your own admission.
Have you used a DMT stone? Chinese 12k?
What razors have you honed? Have you compared your honing to anyone elses, that others know can actually hone?
Sorry to snap, but asking about the TiN coated pakistani razors, and the pocket knife that looks like a razor, and that wood inlayed timber rattler, makes me think you have never held a truly shave ready razor.
Fnord5 ,
please send a PM if you wish to remain hostile . Have a nice day partner .
cityjim
I used norton wet/dry 320 grit sandpaper to do mine. I have a 2' square piece of granite countertop leftover from my installation. It was the sink coutout made into a cutting board. I used the standard pencil markup method and did both sides in about 30 minutes. No elbow grease was required and the volume of water was not so much as to require heavy prep or cleanup work.
Please tell me you didn't just say you use a hunk of granite for a cutting board.
Those poor knives
Okay, so I may have went a little overboard and bought a Naniwa 3000K and Naniwa 8000K. Can I just do the same to lap them? And use roughly the same 200 to 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper?
Second question, can I just hone with all three of my stones by only dampening them as I hone, not actually soaking them prior to use?
Again, everyone's help has been much appreciated (and I'm sorry for any scuffles that have arisen from this thread )
Yes. But at this point, you might as well buy the Nani 12k.