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Kolnisch Juchten - A Real Man's Russian Leather

Alright gents, it's been awhile since I posted up a mini-review, but this frag has caught my attention and I haven't seen much if anything about it on the B&B boards. You can search and find a few threads on Basenotes about this stuff, but without further adieu...

Birch tar. Banned for use in certain concentrations and distillation methods by the IFRA (I'll not bore you with the details), has historically and is still used as the basis for many fragrances for both men and women in the "leather" genre. Birch tar oil was historically used in the tanning and maturing process of leather hides from Russia in the 18th century when Russian Leather (Cuir de Russie) was generally thought to be the finest quality in the world.

In 1917, the Provisional Russian government shut down the production of Russian leather as it was known and the exact formula used for producing the leather was lost for good. Attempts to replicate the exact process have been engaged ever since.

The fine leather of this era gave off a distinct aroma that was unique and was associated with high quality, aristocracy, and affluence. Perfumers began attempting to replicate the scent and throughout the years and many have used birch tar in their "Cuir de Russie" formulae to create a warm, leathery scent. The most famous probably being Chanel's Cuir de Russie (1924). Nameless others have been created with the same name over the years. My personal favorite has, up until now, been Creed's discontinued Private Collection Cuir de Russie (1953) which is a beautiful leather scent, but good luck trying to find it. And if you do, you will pay dearly for it...

I have dedicated this fall to sampling every scent in the leather genre that I can get my hands on. I recently was gifted a sample of Kolnisch Juchten by the generous Chandos (thank you sir). I was immediately reminded of a familiar scent. Ah, yes..... Creed's Cuir de Russie.

This scent is all about birch tar, but it is not overpowering in any way. It is a cold, dark, smokey leather accord with a hint of woodiness and ash. It is ever so slightly sweetened with a citrus element to brighten up the darkness of the leather. I imagine trudging through a dark cold Russian winter with fine leather boots, their scent wafting up from the ground as I make my way through the snow. A perfect fit for winter.

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So if you're sitting around as the weather gets colder and bored with all of the traditional offerings of the world, fetch a squirt or two of Kolnisch Juchten which will whisk you away into the cold of winter but will keep you warm with it's dark, smokey, leathery accord. It is not a perfect match, but if you like Creed's Cuir de Russie, I must say that I think you will really like this one too.

I have read that the recipe for this fragrance is nearly 300 years old and the original production (in Germany) ceased sometime around 1960. But not all hope is lost - there is a manufacturer in San Francisco that has a license for current production in a small boutique called Jacqueline Parfumery (they do ship). Looks like I'll be giving them a call.
 
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Although I've never tried it, the descriptions and discussions of this fragrance are always compelling. I have been meaning to buy a bottle of this for some time now. I'm debating whether to order it or just wait until the next time I'm in San Francisco and buy it there. Let us know how you like it.
 
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EXCELLENT review! Well done! And although I was never overly impressed by it, you've made me want to revisit it just to be sure. My impressions were of course formed early in my fragrance hobby and could very likely be different now. I certainly respect the historical importance it has as a reference fragrance for the genre.
 
EXCELLENT review! Well done! And although I was never overly impressed by it, you've made me want to revisit it just to be sure. My impressions were of course formed early in my fragrance hobby and could very likely be different now. I certainly respect the historical importance it has as a reference fragrance for the genre.

My only gripe is that it wears a big light, but then so does Creed CdR. It's good while it lasts though!
 
Gents-- quick question. What is it that distinguishes a Russian Leather scent from, say, a Spanish Leather? In what genre would you place Knize 10? What about something like Bandit? I assume something like Trumper's Spanish Leather is in fact... a spanish leather?
 
Gents-- quick question. What is it that distinguishes a Russian Leather scent from, say, a Spanish Leather? In what genre would you place Knize 10? What about something like Bandit? I assume something like Trumper's Spanish Leather is in fact... a spanish leather?


Russian leather is based on birch tar and is usually accompanied with floral/citrus notes, but the heart of the frag is centered around birch tar. I'd say Knize 10 is probably a Russian Leather, but it seems to be different than most of the others in the genre.

Bandit is a chypre leather. It's really a woody scent based on oakmoss that gives off the impression of leather.

I'm no spanish leather expert, but it seems to be a different breed as well built around castoreum or civet maybe? I don't really know. The three main versions of Spanish Leather available today: Trumpers, Truefitt, and SMN are all pretty strikingly different from each other.

Here is an article about some differences between Russian and Spanish leather: http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/2007/12/leather-series-5-cuir-de-russie-vs-peau.html
 
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I've got a buddy in SF testing it for me this week. Ih he loves it, h will bring me a bottle when he visits next month. Merry Christmas to me
 
very interest ing...thanks for posting !
 

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I have tried Kolnisch Juchten, and found it to be to my liking. Now having said that give 1776 Russian Leather by Elsha a shot. I forget the gentleman's name that sells this fragrance. Only one place that I know of where this can be purchased. Google Elsha, and I'm sure you will find it. A little site that is rather simple, but does deliver fast service. A hearty leather fragrance, but not over bearing on that birch tar accord. wears well in cooler, and or plain cold weather. can be had for a song, and a dance. I have never seen a pyramid for this fragrance
 
Wow David, you have a nice brother!!! Did he pay $989.00 or did he find it somewhere else at a more reasonable price? I'm a sucker for reviews like these and I'd like to try some... do you know where he made the purchase? Thanks!!!
 
Wow David, you have a nice brother!!! Did he pay $989.00 or did he find it somewhere else at a more reasonable price? I'm a sucker for reviews like these and I'd like to try some... do you know where he made the purchase? Thanks!!!

DAVID, great gift !! where did your brother get it ? I would like to know the cost as well...how about an in depth synopsis of the scent ?
 
I think you referenced it above. He purchased it at Jacqueline Parfumery in SF.

I will say that while KJ has a BIG opening it settles down to a very nice skin scent. Longevity may be a bit of an issue with KJ. That said I still think it is superior to Creeds CdR...

No idea how I will ever get through the 100mls...might have to make some decants :)

:a11:

Bold statement there sir! I still prefer the late version from Creed, but this is good stuff. Funny you bringing this thread up. I have had this juice on my mind and waiting for the temps to drop so I could bust it back out. Good value for the money, but not a very versatile frag. I only find that I've worn it a handful of times in the past year.

Longevity does seem better with this than the Creed. I believe it has a heftier dose of birch tar.
 
Excuse my ignorance but are there multiple varieties of CdR? I had a decant of the most recent vintage but it was so fleeting on me I decided to part with it.

I agree that this is not the most versatile of fragrances but I hope to get some use out of it this winter...the opening is really spectacular and I bet I over apply at some point in the next few months!

Sorry, I should have worded more appropriately. By "the late" I meant discontinued as if speaking about a person who has passed. And by "version" I meant Creed's depiction of Russian Leather which is the CdR to which we are referring.

There is only one variety of Creed CdR. It wears terribly light on me and on most from what I gather, but ignoring that fact and simply based on the scent itself, I find it to be a better composition than KJ. KJ definitely wins in the longevity department, however.
 
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I received my sample of Kolnisch Juchten from daverasi (thanks Dave!) and it is most certainly unique and quite nice. I know nothing about frags and even less about describing them but, I'll give it a try:
It's real old school and antique... something Trotsky would have worn. It's got a strong, sweet, floral scent, however I wouldn't exactly call it a unisex frag like a straight fougere. The smokey, campfire background (which in only one row back) makes it obviously for men - although I met some tough women who could wear it. If you like fogere, you will really enjoy Kolnisch Juchten. Overall, it's killer!
 
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Congratulations on trying such a famous and elusive frag. I have always wanted to try it myself. I was planning to pick up a bottle on an upcoming trip to San Francisco, but my schedule changed so I guess I'll save it for another day. Thanks for your interesting description. I always like reading about the images that a scent conjures up for someone.
 
I received my decant from Dave as well.A very nice slightly smokey barbershop powder,with a hint of sweet pine tar and spice.Longetivity is great for me,really lasts all day.I must say I received another 2 samples from Surrender to Chance...a vial of KJ and a vial of Johann Maria Farina...the Farina was weak,and had a generic citrus scent,nothing special....the KJ was labeled as "vintage" ...but smelled like a feminine powder mono-note cologne,with zero trace of tar or smoke.I suspect these are counterfeits,they are so far off the mark in scent...if anything,the current Regency version of KJ should have even less tar and smoke than the original...
 
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