Alright gents, it's been awhile since I posted up a mini-review, but this frag has caught my attention and I haven't seen much if anything about it on the B&B boards. You can search and find a few threads on Basenotes about this stuff, but without further adieu...
Birch tar. Banned for use in certain concentrations and distillation methods by the IFRA (I'll not bore you with the details), has historically and is still used as the basis for many fragrances for both men and women in the "leather" genre. Birch tar oil was historically used in the tanning and maturing process of leather hides from Russia in the 18th century when Russian Leather (Cuir de Russie) was generally thought to be the finest quality in the world.
In 1917, the Provisional Russian government shut down the production of Russian leather as it was known and the exact formula used for producing the leather was lost for good. Attempts to replicate the exact process have been engaged ever since.
The fine leather of this era gave off a distinct aroma that was unique and was associated with high quality, aristocracy, and affluence. Perfumers began attempting to replicate the scent and throughout the years and many have used birch tar in their "Cuir de Russie" formulae to create a warm, leathery scent. The most famous probably being Chanel's Cuir de Russie (1924). Nameless others have been created with the same name over the years. My personal favorite has, up until now, been Creed's discontinued Private Collection Cuir de Russie (1953) which is a beautiful leather scent, but good luck trying to find it. And if you do, you will pay dearly for it...
I have dedicated this fall to sampling every scent in the leather genre that I can get my hands on. I recently was gifted a sample of Kolnisch Juchten by the generous Chandos (thank you sir). I was immediately reminded of a familiar scent. Ah, yes..... Creed's Cuir de Russie.
This scent is all about birch tar, but it is not overpowering in any way. It is a cold, dark, smokey leather accord with a hint of woodiness and ash. It is ever so slightly sweetened with a citrus element to brighten up the darkness of the leather. I imagine trudging through a dark cold Russian winter with fine leather boots, their scent wafting up from the ground as I make my way through the snow. A perfect fit for winter.
So if you're sitting around as the weather gets colder and bored with all of the traditional offerings of the world, fetch a squirt or two of Kolnisch Juchten which will whisk you away into the cold of winter but will keep you warm with it's dark, smokey, leathery accord. It is not a perfect match, but if you like Creed's Cuir de Russie, I must say that I think you will really like this one too.
I have read that the recipe for this fragrance is nearly 300 years old and the original production (in Germany) ceased sometime around 1960. But not all hope is lost - there is a manufacturer in San Francisco that has a license for current production in a small boutique called Jacqueline Parfumery (they do ship). Looks like I'll be giving them a call.
Birch tar. Banned for use in certain concentrations and distillation methods by the IFRA (I'll not bore you with the details), has historically and is still used as the basis for many fragrances for both men and women in the "leather" genre. Birch tar oil was historically used in the tanning and maturing process of leather hides from Russia in the 18th century when Russian Leather (Cuir de Russie) was generally thought to be the finest quality in the world.
In 1917, the Provisional Russian government shut down the production of Russian leather as it was known and the exact formula used for producing the leather was lost for good. Attempts to replicate the exact process have been engaged ever since.
The fine leather of this era gave off a distinct aroma that was unique and was associated with high quality, aristocracy, and affluence. Perfumers began attempting to replicate the scent and throughout the years and many have used birch tar in their "Cuir de Russie" formulae to create a warm, leathery scent. The most famous probably being Chanel's Cuir de Russie (1924). Nameless others have been created with the same name over the years. My personal favorite has, up until now, been Creed's discontinued Private Collection Cuir de Russie (1953) which is a beautiful leather scent, but good luck trying to find it. And if you do, you will pay dearly for it...
I have dedicated this fall to sampling every scent in the leather genre that I can get my hands on. I recently was gifted a sample of Kolnisch Juchten by the generous Chandos (thank you sir). I was immediately reminded of a familiar scent. Ah, yes..... Creed's Cuir de Russie.
This scent is all about birch tar, but it is not overpowering in any way. It is a cold, dark, smokey leather accord with a hint of woodiness and ash. It is ever so slightly sweetened with a citrus element to brighten up the darkness of the leather. I imagine trudging through a dark cold Russian winter with fine leather boots, their scent wafting up from the ground as I make my way through the snow. A perfect fit for winter.
So if you're sitting around as the weather gets colder and bored with all of the traditional offerings of the world, fetch a squirt or two of Kolnisch Juchten which will whisk you away into the cold of winter but will keep you warm with it's dark, smokey, leathery accord. It is not a perfect match, but if you like Creed's Cuir de Russie, I must say that I think you will really like this one too.
I have read that the recipe for this fragrance is nearly 300 years old and the original production (in Germany) ceased sometime around 1960. But not all hope is lost - there is a manufacturer in San Francisco that has a license for current production in a small boutique called Jacqueline Parfumery (they do ship). Looks like I'll be giving them a call.
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