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Knives on razor hones

I have a fair collection of kitchen knives that get a lot of use. Does anyone else here use their wetstones, cotis, etc. To maintain kitchen cutlery?
 
I've used my cotis on my kitchen and outdoor knives. I just make sure the stones are free of anything that might have been left by the knives before i hone my razors.
 
I frequently use my DMT D8C, King 1k/6k & Muller grindstone on my knives. Occasionally I'll use a coticule or Chinese natural. Knives also love a good stropping.
 
I use my stones up to 8k for both and it works great. I just never sharpen knives and straights during the same session and make sure that lap my stones well before touching the straights to stone.

I tried using my strop on my knives once. Now I have a new strop:lol:
 

Luc

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I use my 1.2K Atoma to sharpen by kitchen knives. The instructions (In Japanese) say that you can so I do! :laugh:
 

ouch

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The stone doesn't know what it's sharpening. If you're using them for both knives and razors, I'd suggest hining the razors first, then the knives, then relapping before doing the razors again.
 
How do you guys maintain proper edge angle when honing your knives on a stone? I've been having trouble with it

Same as on any stone really...just practice and eyeballing it. I have a set of Arkansas stones I have used on different knives for years. But they are much smaller in comparison to my razor hones. Hence, I figured I'd ask if they were compatible as they will be much easier to use that the 4"x2" Washita and 2"x1" Hard Arkansas oil stones I have endured for all these years.
 
I've always used waterstones to maintain my kitchen knives - they're laminated Japanese knives of around Rc63-64. Up until recently I've been using a King 1k/6k stone, but since I've bought some razor hones I last honed my knives on a Naniwa 3k/8k and got glorious edges.

How do you guys maintain proper edge angle when honing your knives on a stone? I've been having trouble with it

Just experience and muscle memory - for some of my knives (eg Santoku, Nakiri) I prefer a convex bevel, while for others (eg Yanagi) I prefer a flat bevel, and I don't think there's any quicker way to get them right than to practice.
 
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Just experience and muscle memory - for some of my knives (eg Santoku, Nakiri) I prefer a convex bevel, while for others (eg Yanagi) I prefer a flat bevel, and I don't think there's any quicker way to get them right than to practice.



Plus, watch out when using softer stones, the angle used for sharpening some knives is steeper than what you'll use for a razor.
You can gouge a soft waterstone stone pretty easily if you're not paying real close attention - I took a piece out of a Naniwa SS 1k once, took a while to lap that out.
 
I stink at eyeballing; my Grandpa always made it look easy. I use an Edge Pro Apex for most of my knives except for those in high hardness like D2 or S90V. (They go up to Benchmade.) For utility I work the blades down to 320 grit, sometimes to 600 but no finer. I like a toothy edge. For my laminated Shuns sp. for kitchen use, I set the table 30 degrees inclusive, which gives them a long time between sharpenings...and for touchups use the 1800 grit ceramic EP rod that came with the kit. For final stropping, I use a piece of 12" X 2" horsehide with green jeweler's rouge.
 
Plus, watch out when using softer stones, the angle used for sharpening some knives is steeper than what you'll use for a razor. You can gouge a soft waterstone stone pretty easily if you're not paying real close attention - I took a piece out of a Naniwa SS 1k once, took a while to lap that out.

Yep, very true - you do get a feel for the edge on the stone after a while and can tell when it's right, but most people take a few chunks out of their stones as they're learning!
 
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