Lots of this will depend on the knife, I would give it a go with your Chosera if its not very dull already. If so a coarser grit may be needed. When you raise a burr along the entire length of the blade its time to flip the blade over and do it again. Removing the burr is key to a blade that stays sharp ( all other things being equal.) A chunk of pine or a piece of blue Styrofoam house insulation does a good job, just pull the knife through the material.Then you can go higher if you want to try. One trick is to use a black magic marker to mark the edge to see where you are holding the blade against the stone.When you get to the tip you are going to have to lift the blade from the rear.
knife sharpening
- Thread starter rickboone1
- Start date
Lots of this will depend on the knife, I would give it a go with your Chosera if its not very dull already. If so a coarser grit may be needed. When you raise a burr along the entire length of the blade its time to flip the blade over and do it again. Removing the burr is key to a blade that stays sharp ( all other things being equal.) A chunk of pine or a piece of blue Styrofoam house insulation does a good job, just pull the knife through the material.Then you can go higher if you want to try. One trick is to use a black magic marker to mark the edge to see where you are holding the blade against the stone.When you get to the tip you are going to have to lift the blade from the rear.
I sort of backed into knife sharpening via razor honing. I figured I was spending hours sharpening razors and yet many of my kitchen knives were dull as screwdrivers. The thing about knife sharpening with waterstones was keeping the all-important 20-degree angle. With my carpal-tunnel situation, holding a knife at that angle long enough to sharpen it is pure torture. I can, however, hold a blade flat for a long time without pain. The key was to angle the stone, and not the blade.
Solution #1 was a marble tile into which I drilled some holes at the right heights to support the rod-end of a steelex stone-holder at 15 or 20 degrees, depending on which I want. I know I have a pic of this somewhere, but I can't find it. I wasn't totally happy with solution #1 (too simple, must be a trap), so I came up with solution #2.
This is a panavise with a few embellishments and a deck made from HDPE, also known as cutting board material. I can set it to any angle I wish, and the rubber matting holds the stone steady. There are three changes I'm planning to make to this, but the basic concept is there.
Sure, you could get an Edge Pro or Wicked Edge and get perfect angles every time with zero effort, but where's the fun in that?
Solution #1 was a marble tile into which I drilled some holes at the right heights to support the rod-end of a steelex stone-holder at 15 or 20 degrees, depending on which I want. I know I have a pic of this somewhere, but I can't find it. I wasn't totally happy with solution #1 (too simple, must be a trap), so I came up with solution #2.
This is a panavise with a few embellishments and a deck made from HDPE, also known as cutting board material. I can set it to any angle I wish, and the rubber matting holds the stone steady. There are three changes I'm planning to make to this, but the basic concept is there.
Sure, you could get an Edge Pro or Wicked Edge and get perfect angles every time with zero effort, but where's the fun in that?
Thanks for the suggestion, bhtoad. Probably about the same price as sending it away but a lot more convenient.
Ben
Ben
Ouch started a thread a while back on how to sharpen a knife. My favorite post was on finding the angle . 1000 grit works real nice for me. Bit of polishing on 4000. If a knife really needs work I use a Gatco system (Like Lansky) and start with a stone that is about 320 grit. So far with my Japanese knives, that were honed by Dave Martel, I've only used very careful hand honing.
A while back I used the services of a local restaurant knife service to sharpen a couple of my German knives. (Was investigating for post on a foodie board) The owner of the service uses a 2" wide trizact belt and puts a pretty darn keen edge on a knife very quickly. It is very much a bulk process . . . not overly concerned over care of the knives other than getting a nice working edge on a knife. Cost about $4 per knife. My 1000 grit stone cost about 30 bucks and I've used it tons over the years. Well worth the investment.
A while back I used the services of a local restaurant knife service to sharpen a couple of my German knives. (Was investigating for post on a foodie board) The owner of the service uses a 2" wide trizact belt and puts a pretty darn keen edge on a knife very quickly. It is very much a bulk process . . . not overly concerned over care of the knives other than getting a nice working edge on a knife. Cost about $4 per knife. My 1000 grit stone cost about 30 bucks and I've used it tons over the years. Well worth the investment.
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Howyou hold the knife doesn't really matter, what does matter is that you find a way that lets you keep the angle.
Also, my take on it is that you find a really comfy position, somehwere around the right angle & keep that. Way better that your angle ends up at 18 and stays there then taht you chase exactly 20 & loose
that angle because it feels wrong.
I've found that my body has pretty much 3 built-in levels, 7, 14 & 18. All these comes automatically more or less. The rest I have to continously struggle a bit for.
Two major "schools" x-pattern or section sharpening. I.e you sharpen the whole knife in one stroke or in sections.
Again, do as feels best.
Often it can feel easier to sharpen the flat/belly & the tip/curve in sections, especially when learning.
I personally use a x-pattern most of the time, pretty much like in this video, which I find is pretty much a show of spotless technique.
Watch how he uses his free hand on the blade & how he positions it. That is the one that feels in the angle & keeps it & also puts the pressure where it is needed at any given time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Duwt8oMZRaA
Also, the Chosera 1K is awesome for knives IMO. And with soem pressure and/or slurry, you can really take care of some issues too, without spending to much time.
Of course, for knives you will need/wanta coarser stoen eventually, but you can do a whole lot with a C1K & when you learn to use it properly & finish "right" you can get a really sharp edge right off the C1K.
With some training you can get a good knife to pushcut paper with ease & that is actually plenty for a kitchen knife.
Also, my take on it is that you find a really comfy position, somehwere around the right angle & keep that. Way better that your angle ends up at 18 and stays there then taht you chase exactly 20 & loose
that angle because it feels wrong.
I've found that my body has pretty much 3 built-in levels, 7, 14 & 18. All these comes automatically more or less. The rest I have to continously struggle a bit for.
Two major "schools" x-pattern or section sharpening. I.e you sharpen the whole knife in one stroke or in sections.
Again, do as feels best.
Often it can feel easier to sharpen the flat/belly & the tip/curve in sections, especially when learning.
I personally use a x-pattern most of the time, pretty much like in this video, which I find is pretty much a show of spotless technique.
Watch how he uses his free hand on the blade & how he positions it. That is the one that feels in the angle & keeps it & also puts the pressure where it is needed at any given time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Duwt8oMZRaA
Also, the Chosera 1K is awesome for knives IMO. And with soem pressure and/or slurry, you can really take care of some issues too, without spending to much time.
Of course, for knives you will need/wanta coarser stoen eventually, but you can do a whole lot with a C1K & when you learn to use it properly & finish "right" you can get a really sharp edge right off the C1K.
With some training you can get a good knife to pushcut paper with ease & that is actually plenty for a kitchen knife.
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I do. I find it very easy and effective on most knives. It brings the edges up to a point where they can easily shave arm hair, and that is all I need for my knives.
Honed: Thanks for posting that link. It made me think I might actually be able to sharpen my own kitchen knives if I get some stones and then get some stones. I've been kicking around the idea for a couple of months now because I feel a case of SRAD coming on and would want to hone my own straights if I go down that path.
Dumb rookie question--does the squeeze bottle he's using just have water in it? (I mean, um, yeah--they're **water**stones, but I was just curious if there is some "pro" trick he might be using.)
Dumb rookie question--does the squeeze bottle he's using just have water in it? (I mean, um, yeah--they're **water**stones, but I was just curious if there is some "pro" trick he might be using.)
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Hang around 'Blade Forums.com" a while and you'll learn more than you ever needed to know about everything 'knife'!! I have both a Spyderco Sharpmaker and an Apex Edgepro. Both great sharpeners but with different purposes really-----I recommend both. Rather than me trying to type all about them, do a quick Google, but basically, if you are re-profiling or have a seriously dull knife, you'll want to use the Edge Pro for faster shaping initially, but once it's shaped (to match the Spyderco sharpener angles) it's easy to do quick touch-ups using the Sharpmaker. If you have to do heavy material removal to re-profile, it can take a while, but you get a nice uniform bevel with no burning like you might with a grinder. I re-profiled a Ka-Bar marine combat knife using the Edge-Pro, and now I can to a few swipes with the SM and bring it back to razor sharpness very effortlessly.
This oldie may not provide the answer you're looking for, but it was a hoot-
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/25522-How-to-sharpen-a-knife?highlight=sharpen+knife
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/25522-How-to-sharpen-a-knife?highlight=sharpen+knife
Before you know it, you'll have scary knife skills and will be able to knock out terrific meals, such as this one.
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What about convex edges? I just purchased a Bark River knife and it has a convex edge (the first knife I own with a convex edge). When I did some searching on sharpening a convex edge, it looks more like stropping a straight as compared to sharpening a straight (or any other knife I am use to), in that the direction to sharpen is from back-to-edge.
The knife is made of A4 carbon steel, and I was wondering if using one of my coticules following the dilucot method just like I do for my straights would work just as well or if that would condition the blade in a manner that would not retain an edge as long/well...
Any thoughts?
The knife is made of A4 carbon steel, and I was wondering if using one of my coticules following the dilucot method just like I do for my straights would work just as well or if that would condition the blade in a manner that would not retain an edge as long/well...
Any thoughts?
Convex edges are a genre of it's own.
Barkies are made of A2, a tough tool steel.
And the real Barkie fans are obsessed with their convex edges.
Mouse-mat or piece of leather & a bunch of sandpaper & you are good to go.
Stropping motion.
There is a TON of information on the web, some googling will take you very far.
For example Bark River has a very active sub-forum on one of the knifeforums, they also have a facebook page et al.
TONS of informations to be had if you put a little effort into it.
In the end a convex edge is also a sharp edge. All sharpening is about removing the "right" amount of metal from two sides & make them meet at an optimum angle.
Barkies are made of A2, a tough tool steel.
And the real Barkie fans are obsessed with their convex edges.
Mouse-mat or piece of leather & a bunch of sandpaper & you are good to go.
Stropping motion.
There is a TON of information on the web, some googling will take you very far.
For example Bark River has a very active sub-forum on one of the knifeforums, they also have a facebook page et al.
TONS of informations to be had if you put a little effort into it.
In the end a convex edge is also a sharp edge. All sharpening is about removing the "right" amount of metal from two sides & make them meet at an optimum angle.
Thank you...
Yes, google and you tube have offered lots, that was where I found the 'stropping' motion for sharpening and was surprised... since the A4 is more of a tooling steel, I suspect it will hold its edge better that some others... I also think the only time I would need to do any major work is if the edge gets a bad nick. Thanks again.
Yes, google and you tube have offered lots, that was where I found the 'stropping' motion for sharpening and was surprised... since the A4 is more of a tooling steel, I suspect it will hold its edge better that some others... I also think the only time I would need to do any major work is if the edge gets a bad nick. Thanks again.
- Thread starter
- #36
I can't watch videos.... computer shuts down when I do.
I tried a little tonight. I've got a 10" Forynsthyth??? Some type of kitchen knife. Yeah, I can't hone that worth anything. I was using the C1K
I took my Mora 2/0 to the Cretan hone for a few strokes. Seemed to dull it up a bit. I took it to the strops with abrasives. Brought the edge back pretty good. Did not work for the kitchen knife, though.
I tried a little tonight. I've got a 10" Forynsthyth??? Some type of kitchen knife. Yeah, I can't hone that worth anything. I was using the C1K
I took my Mora 2/0 to the Cretan hone for a few strokes. Seemed to dull it up a bit. I took it to the strops with abrasives. Brought the edge back pretty good. Did not work for the kitchen knife, though.
I have been sharpening knives for many years, started with a simple wet stone-long ago. It works but requires quite a bit of fitness and skill to to correctly. i bought a Lansky sharpening system about 15 years ago and it was OK. About 5 years ago I bought an electronic marvel a cutlery something, electric with different grits. HATE it, I bought an Edge Pro sharpening system about a year ago and it rocks. I love to cook and own top drawer Wustof knives, and bought a Japanese knife for my wife. The Japanese knife is just better, you can't chop a chicken in half with it but damn good knife. I have re profiled my German knives to the Japanese angles with the Edge Pro, It was not a 10 minute task, But I can sharpen and watch tv and be a husband while sharpening-sort of therapy. I love this thing, it takes a little while to get used to it, but then WOW. I have used a 3000 grit and stropped the blades with some knives. Serious sharp. I saw the stuff on You tube, I figured I have been screwed before so what the hell, and used AMEX so i could return it. I love it. 5star rating- but elbow grease required.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Lansky type systems are fantastic. There is nothing random or inconsistent about a well executed edge from the Lansky setup. I have used the Lansky and also a cheap knockoff that was probably just dissimilar enough to get by. Once the bevel is set to your chosen angle, resharpening later on takes less than a minute and you get the same great edge every time. I have heard nothing but good about the Edge Pro but have never used one. If you have a lot of knives, either setup, or a Chef's Choice electric, will save you a lot of time and give you great edges. OTOH, having a lot of knives also potentially gives you a lot of practice, and the art of sharpening freehand is something to inspire awe and envy in others, and you can always get an edge when you are away from your gadgets but have a good rock handy.
I have a 5 year old Wustoff Knife Sharpener - and it is awful - it has a course and fine slot. It used to put a decent edge on knives, but something has gone horribly wrong - it is hit or miss depending on the hardness of the steel, and the edges just don't seem to stay like they used to. I am thinking about the Lansky system, but it seems a little more complicated than what I am looking for. One or two hones seem enough for me. I would even be open to just using a sharpening stone and figuring out how to do the proper angle. Any suggestions for a simple kitchen/pocket knife sharpener? Not doing serrated edges - so that is not a concern.
I've been experimenting and have recently invested in a 2k/5k ceramic combo stone. I've found a progression of grinding an edge at 200 and cleaning up at 800, followed by the 2k/5k and a final polish on a honing steel gets an insanely sharp edge. Easily sharp enough to shave arm hair. But I still want sharper...
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