Novelty cutlery was actually out of canton Ohio, and a solid razor/knife manufacturer that closed in the 1940s. Based on the hone wear this has actually been used at some point. I bet it's a solid blade.
Just getting started
- Thread starter trapperpete
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rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
Very true. Don't start on diamond pasted balsa until the bevel is properly set and refined up to about 12k or 1.0um. Then and only then, move on to your balsa.
How do I know? I have tried otherwise and failed.
My 2 cents on stropping, I bought an $80 strop from razor emporium when I first started. I haven’t nicked it a single time. I know most guys think you will definitely cut up your first strop but I’m slow and methodical about it. Nothing about SR shaving is a race. When you see videos of guys stropping quickly they have been doing it for years and there is no reason that you have to match the speed. The quality of the edge when your done is what’s important, not how quickly you can do it. Long story short my opinion is buy something decent and be careful with it.
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First you will need a good leather strop and a way to sharpen the edge. I suggest a 3” wide horsehide strop and a The Method Setup of lapping films and diamond paste.
Then you will need a razor. I suggest a new razor the has been professionally honed before it is sent to you. A Ralf Aust 5/8” roundpoint is perfect. A Gold dollar is a budget option.
Do yourself a favor and get the strop and chosen honing equipment before you get the razor! You absolutely need a sharp edge to get a good result. Sharpening the edge yourself is easy if you have the equipment. Maintainance is part of the deal with SR’s. You might as well learn how to do it from the start.
In theory you can shave with a truely shave ready razor indefinitely with just a strop and finisher. In reality there are plenty of ways to ruin an edge and it is likely you will do that in the beginning. This is no big deal, if you have some honing equipment you can quickly and easily bring the edge back. Apart from cracking the blade in half, almost all damage is reversible. If you don’t have the full set up you will likely soon be stuck with bad equipment, unable to get a good shave and doubting yourself. If you’re going to do it, do it right.
Then you will need a razor. I suggest a new razor the has been professionally honed before it is sent to you. A Ralf Aust 5/8” roundpoint is perfect. A Gold dollar is a budget option.
Do yourself a favor and get the strop and chosen honing equipment before you get the razor! You absolutely need a sharp edge to get a good result. Sharpening the edge yourself is easy if you have the equipment. Maintainance is part of the deal with SR’s. You might as well learn how to do it from the start.
In theory you can shave with a truely shave ready razor indefinitely with just a strop and finisher. In reality there are plenty of ways to ruin an edge and it is likely you will do that in the beginning. This is no big deal, if you have some honing equipment you can quickly and easily bring the edge back. Apart from cracking the blade in half, almost all damage is reversible. If you don’t have the full set up you will likely soon be stuck with bad equipment, unable to get a good shave and doubting yourself. If you’re going to do it, do it right.
- Thread starter
- #25
The information on the blade is Novelty Cutlery Co. Canton O. Pat.Nov.79
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- #26
Any of you have a preference on a SR blade design straight vs curved?
Each has their own. Curved blades, which are called smiling, have their benefits and downfalls. I prefer a razor edge to be as near to straight as possible.
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
I'm with @Sinnbad11 on that, particularly in your early SR edcation. A smiling blade need a slightly increased skill level to properly hone and balsa strop.
Now I like a little smile, about 1mm. I still try and avoid very happy SR's.
Now I like a little smile, about 1mm. I still try and avoid very happy SR's.
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- #29
Interesting. I am definitely going to have to purchase a smiling razor someday to try.
I was also able to just now enter my location.
I was also able to just now enter my location.
This, 100%.
I was going to suggest going with a 6/8 when I read the first post. When I started I found 6/8s easier to use and judge angle.
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- #32
That was a great video.
Now the question of whether tape or not to tape? I would think the tape would protect wear on the spine but also change the angle over time. Thoughts?
Now the question of whether tape or not to tape? I would think the tape would protect wear on the spine but also change the angle over time. Thoughts?
I use tape depending on the bevel angle. If the razor is at a good angle with no tape I don't use tape. The edge and spine will wear fairly evenly and the bevel angle will change minimally over time. With a taped spine the bevel angle will slowly increase over time, that being said, there are a wide variety of angles a razor will shave well at and if you find your angle shaves well after honing with a taped spine the edge will continue to shave well through many honings, it will also save you some hone wear which can affect aesthetics.
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
If you want to use diamond pasted balsa strops in your progression/maintenance, do not use tape - ever.
If you tape, you always need to tape, otherwise you'll change the bevel angle; if you don't tape, you can never tape without changing the bevel angle - basically you need to stick with whichever you pick, unless you feel like taking it back to the 1k and resetting the bevel
I always tape with Kapton tape (0.06mm thick vs the 0.22mm of 3M 88 Super). Reason being, I like my razors to look as good as they shave, and I don't trust myself not to overhone the spine - can always take the spine down if needed, can't get it back.
That said, I hone on lapping film, not balsa. It's closer to stones (can go edge trailing or edge leading vs paste on balsa which is only done edge trailing) and goes just as high as paste (currently have 0.05u, 500,000 grit from Amazon). Both lapping film and paste are easy to find on Amazon at lower grits, and both get harder the lower micron/higher grit you go.
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Out of curiosity, why? You can change tape easily between pastes, or is there some other reason?
Is that true if it WAS honed with tape? I like the idea of hitting the .1u balsa after every shave but I don’t because the razor I use most was originally honed with tape. I end up only hitting the balsa about once a month because I don’t want to tape the spine everyday
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Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
It loads up the balsa with gummy crap.
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
^ What he said.
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