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Ivory Maintenance

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
I have my first vintage SR, a 150yo George Butler & Co "Shakespeare" with ivory scales.
IMG_20210622_125643.jpg
I have applied three coats of Renaissance wax to the steel. My questions is, is it okay to apply Renaissance wax to the ivory scales?

If not, what (if anything) should be applied to the ivory to help protect it?
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
Probably best to keep this one out of the dry box. Low humidity is bad for ivory.
Yes. My dry box is in Cebu. I'm currently stuck in Australia trying to get back to Asia. While in AU I have been able to acquire a couple of good SR's, so it's not all bad.
 

Legion

Staff member
Ren Wax is fine on ivory.

If you live somewhere very dry you can give it a very light coat of mineral oil once or twice a year, but generally not needed in most places. Dont use too much or it might stain.
 
Yes. My dry box is in Cebu. I'm currently stuck in Australia trying to get back to Asia. While in AU I have been able to acquire a couple of good SR's, so it's not all bad.
Sorry to hear that you’re stranded. Maybe use the opportunity to pick up some acrylic. I know a guy.
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
Ren Wax is fine on ivory.

If you live somewhere very dry you can give it a very light coat of mineral oil once or twice a year, but generally not needed in most places. Dont use too much or it might stain.
Thanks. I'll apply three coats of Ren wax this evening.
 

Legion

Staff member
Thanks. I'll apply three coats of Ren wax this evening.
You can if you want, but ren wax is microcrystalline and one coat is usually more than enough.

It's not like a bees wax furniture polish where you can build up layers for a nicer finish. You are just trying to create a barrier, and it only has to be microns thick.

The rule with Ren wax is "a little dab'l do ya". And that dab is usually about half what you think you need to cover the object.
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
You can if you want, but ren wax is microcrystalline and one coat is usually more than enough.

It's not like a bees wax furniture polish where you can build up layers for a nicer finish. You are just trying to create a barrier, and it only has to be microns thick.

The rule with Ren wax is "a little dab'l do ya". And that dab is usually about half what you think you need to cover the object.
I also use just a dab. The reason for multiple coats on first application is to ensure that those missed spots are covered with at least one coat. Once done, I refresh with just one coat about every three months.
 

Legion

Staff member
I also use just a dab. The reason for multiple coats on first application is to ensure that those missed spots are covered with at least one coat. Once done, I refresh with just one coat about every three months.
As an experiment, just for fun, try this.

Take a small brass or copper object. When I did it I used a .303 bullet, but any uncoated brass and/or copper thing.

Give it a good polish and clean so it is nice and shiny, with no polish residue. Use the tiniest amount of RW, but buff it well into half the object, and leaving half uncovered. Put it aside and wait.

If you spend any time buffing, you wont miss spots. the difference between the coated and uncoated sections will be obvious.

And it lasts for ages. I found that (deactivated) .303, which I had been using as a pipe tamper originally, and it was still shiny after being forgotten for several years.
 
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