Is this straight razor worth salvaging?

[realdog4]

I bought this razor two years ago for $20 in order to practice the art of straight shaving.

It was advertised as being shave ready but it was not.

I had the luck, although just briefly, of meeting someone who would teach me the ins and outs of shaving.

He told me a shave ready razor can be identified by slowly moving a blade against arm hair. The hair would just seemingly pop off with the touch of a blade. He showed me one of his and it did just that.

My mentor moved and I never tried getting into this form of shaving.

I want back in which brings me to my question.

Is this razor worth cleaning up and getting it sharpened to shaving condition?

Take care,
Jason

 

[Rotflmao]

She may not be pretty but if you hone her up, she should shave great. Try some metal polish like autosol. You'd be surprised how much you can clean up a razor with just autosol. If you're going to clean her up though, do it before you hone it.

 

[realdog4]

I was hoping it wasn't a lost cause.

There are no chips or dings on the blade. Just surface scratches and minor rust.

I just need a practice razor for now.

Thanks for the restoration tip. I will try the autosol and clean her up and then post a picture to see if it's good enough to hone.

Thanks for the response and anyone else feel free to chime in.

Take care,
Jason

 

[kcb5150]

If the other side is similar that is easy to sort. The blade proper I would spend some 1k wet dry on and then polish. The tang maybe 600 800 1k and then polish.

 

[6Cuda6]

Yup....clean it up and hone it up....most razors have some kind of life in them. ☺

 

[Slash McCoy]

You are showing the back side of the razor. Identifying stamps and etching are usually on the "show" side. It looks okay to me, but I would like to see the brand. How To Use a Pasted Balsa Strop might bring it back, if you start with 1u or .5u but if the edge is too far gone then it needs to be honed from scratch. See this thread if you want to hone it yourself cheaply. Lapping film, try it. . I have to warn you though, that trying to teach yourself to shave with a razor that you are trying to teach yourself to hone, is an exercise in frustration and sometimes it seems, futility. But the lapping film thread is about as close to a surefire method as it gets, for a newbie.

 

[BSAGuy]

Good luck with your straight shaving, Jason.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Another thought. if you do decide to hone it yourself, learn to shave first, either with another shave ready razor such as a whipped dog, or maybe a shavette. Sallys Beauty Supply has the "Magic Razor" brand. You want the type that uses a half DE blade. Better with another straight, but a shavette is better than nothing.

 

[realdog4]

I plan to clean the razor myself but not hone it.

I have been warned against honing a straight razor before knowing how to use it.

As for the show side, there is none. I can't find any etchings on either side of the blade.

Edit - There is a stamp on the other side behind the shoulder of the blade.
(I think that's what is called - had to look on Wiki)

As always, thanks for everyone's help.

 

[782sirbrian]

I'd restore it I've been cleaning some in much worse condition than yours...

 

[bluesman 7]

Edit - There is a stamp on the other side behind the shoulder of the blade.
(I think that's what is called - had to look on Wiki)
.

That's the part most of us wanted to see. Restore it. IMO

 

[realdog4]

That's the part most of us wanted to see. Restore it. IMO

I bought 1000 grit sandpaper today as well as some metal polish. I will certainly post a picture once I clean her up.

I would have posted the stamped side in my OP but I didn't see it.

 

[bluesman 7]

Keep the crotch of your hand behind the spine while sanding. I'd probably start with 220 grit on that one. Good luck, and have fun.

 

[realdog4]

Keep the crotch of your hand behind the spine while sanding. I'd probably start with 220 grit on that one. Good luck, and have fun.

Is this to protect the spine?

Also, do you sand up and down, side to side or circles?

 

[Slash McCoy]

Is this to protect the spine?

Also, do you sand up and down, side to side or circles?

its to protect your hand. You would be amazed at how deep a dull razor can cut. Not talking about a bandaid fixable cut, either. And the bulk of your sanding will be longways.

 

[realdog4]

Thank you. I am on blood thinners so a major cut = emergency room.

Take care,
Jason

 

[bluesman 7]

Is this to protect the spine?

Also, do you sand up and down, side to side or circles?

No, it is to protect your hand from a possibly bad cut. Even a dull razor is pretty sharp. Alternatively you can use a sanding jig, or even just a piece of wood for safety (lay the razor flat against these) If the razor is very hollow I support the blade with a rubber step in my jig.

If your going for a high polish, I don't think the sanding direction matters much. If you are going to leave sanding stria, you should have your last grit going spine to edge. A lot of people recommend changing the direction when you move up in grit to help you see the scratches from the previous grit.

 

[realdog4]

You are showing the back side of the razor. Identifying stamps and etching are usually on the "show" side.

After sanding with 400 grit, I saw a few hidden identifiers. It is a "Suredge".

I also saw some very faint stamping on the blade but I realized that it had been sanded to the point of no return by previous owner.

Unfortunately, I couldn't read the original writing on the blade. It was too faint. It's now gone.

This is a dirtier job and more time consuming than I expected.

I do enjoy the fruits of my labor but I have a long way to go.

Thanks for everyone's safety advice. I just glanced at your suggestions until I really got started. The advice is appreciated more than you probably realize.

There are a few spots I really want out.

What is the lowest grit you would go without expecting perfection?

Take care,
Jason

 

[kcb5150]

I wouldn't go lower than 400. That robeson's tang is supposed to have all those craters just so you know.

 

[Cambouis]

I have been involved with straight razors only since last August, so am no expert. Here a couple of pictures of a razor I polished up using wet-or-dry papers. I started with 220 grit and worked up eventually to a probably unnecessary 4000.

You will see that the top pin is now changed. There was a great deal of corrosion at the top under the scales. I have terrible difficulty doing pinning - both removing and fitting, that's why the bottom one is unchanged!!

I too as outllined above, rest the blade on a piece of wood thereby avoiding losing the top of a finger!

Best of luck with your project.

Cambouis