Is this ok for my first Jant I’m waiting for it to arrive in the post .

[Ukcarl]

I use Atoma 140/400 to flatten. At the speed of my 400, I can't imagine I'd have the patience to flatten with a 1200...

If you stop flattening when it's flat with a 400, you wouldn't be removing any more material than if you flatten it with a 1200.
[/ok good point i put pencil marks on it so I know when it’s flat and then just stop .

 

[Slash McCoy]

Ummmmmm..... the problem with lapping on a diamond plate or a "flattening stone" is you can't help but overrun the ends and sides. This is problematic if you really really want your stone flat. You need some real estate so you can get some motion without overrunning. I always lap stones on a whole sheet of sandpaper stuck to a 12x12x3/4 piece of cast acrylic. A machinist's surface plate or reference plate is much better than that, though. You can usually use the sink cutout from a polished granite countertop, or a 12x12 polished marble floor tile, if you check it with straight edge and feeler gauge for flatness. Plate glass is usually flat enough but flexes too much unless you get it very thick, like at least 3/8". Believe it or not, float glass is LESS flat than plate glass. Anyway most of those things are flat enough that the sandpaper tolerance is actually looser, anyway. BUT you don't get overrun. Now some guys like using abrasive powders on glass or granite, and that's okay too, except you are also wearing down your plate when you do that, making it dish and so it doesn't stay flat for very long. Flat is flat. Flatter is flatter. Sorta flat is not flat. Your stone. Do it like you feel it. I just wanted to point out one significant problem with lapping on the Atoma. Not saying don't do it or you can't do it, cause obviously that isn't so, since lots of guys do use the Atoma or even a DMT, but you would be compromising your result to a degree. YMMV.

 

[eKretz]

You can use the diamond plate and get very flat indeed as long as you work around that overlap. Use long strokes to get the stone or hone close to flat (remove all pencil marks) then switch to shorter ones with less overlap at the very end.

 

[Ukcarl]

Ummmmmm..... the problem with lapping on a diamond plate or a "flattening stone" is you can't help but overrun the ends and sides. This is problematic if you really really want your stone flat. You need some real estate so you can get some motion without overrunning. I always lap stones on a whole sheet of sandpaper stuck to a 12x12x3/4 piece of cast acrylic. A machinist's surface plate or reference plate is much better than that, though. You can usually use the sink cutout from a polished granite countertop, or a 12x12 polished marble floor tile, if you check it with straight edge and feeler gauge for flatness. Plate glass is usually flat enough but flexes too much unless you get it very thick, like at least 3/8". Believe it or not, float glass is LESS flat than plate glass. Anyway most of those things are flat enough that the sandpaper tolerance is actually looser, anyway. BUT you don't get overrun. Now some guys like using abrasive powders on glass or granite, and that's okay too, except you are also wearing down your plate when you do that, making it dish and so it doesn't stay flat for very long. Flat is flat. Flatter is flatter. Sorta flat is not flat. Your stone. Do it like you feel it. I just wanted to point out one significant problem with lapping on the Atoma. Not saying don't do it or you can't do it, cause obviously that isn't so, since lots of guys do use the Atoma or even a DMT, but you would be compromising your result to a degree. YMMV.

Ok thanks you sound like you have a lot of knowledge and you know what you’re talking about I will do some research and try some different things and see what the best results are .YouTube is one of my go too places for information before I joined this forum now I’m glad I Joined thanks.

 

[Ukcarl]

You can use the diamond plate and get very flat indeed as long as you work around that overlap. Use long strokes to get the stone or hone close to flat (remove all pencil marks) then switch to shorter ones with less overlap at the very end.

Ok will do thanks

 

[rideon66]

You don't need the 1200 Atoma, but you could get just the 1200 replacement sheet and stick to the other side of the 400. You can also get any scratches out with w/d or if stone isn't to hard with nagura. I got the 600 Atoma which gave good speed and no visible scratches when new. Now well worn works more like a 1200 and is good for slurry, but is a bit slow on the harder stones or if a lot of material needs removed. I keep wanting to get the 400 replacement for my other side, but haven't been able to justify the need really.

 

[bluesman 7]

You can use the diamond plate and get very flat indeed as long as you work around that overlap. Use long strokes to get the stone or hone close to flat (remove all pencil marks) then switch to shorter ones with less overlap at the very end.

There is actually a science to this. About a 30% over run is neutral IIRC. Check out telescope mirror grinding.

 

[stone and strop]

I seem to get better results with my 10000 k Naniwa super stone if I go from the naniwa to the la roccia to finish it makes the edge worse not better it works better under running water but i still get a better edge with out it .

The 10k Naniwa is a fine stone and can certainly finish a razor for a comfortable, close shave. Naturals can be hit or miss.
I don't know of too many that use the La Rocca regularly as a finisher.
They don't seem to get much love.

 

[Ukcarl]

 

[Ukcarl]

 

[Ukcarl]

 

[Ukcarl]