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Is this Filarmonica worth buying? Doble temple model 12

I am planning to learn razor restoration and I am new to vintage razors. however I just saw this Filarmonica for 65euro in my marketplace, is it worth buying? Doesn't look as nice as Ebay ones, but it's clearly underpriced in comparison.

Since it's such a well talked brand I am having tons of FOMO to snatch it and restore it later when I am decent at it.

What do you think about the deal?

My objective is not to just sell it and take a profit. It's more like a collector perspective and wanting to have the experience of a famous razor brand apart from mine. I intend to start with cheaper razors, but since 65 euro is not that cheap, am I being greedy with this one?

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Thanks for the answers. I ll skip that one and keep looking.

What about those?






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The yellow is a "puma best puma steel". I think it's not wide enough and has quite a frown right.
The other one just say solingen. I really like the handle of that one and it's very wide. I am worried about that chip at the point ( I used an arrow), is that problematic? Can I fix it somehow?

They are both 30€, 15 each. I may grab both if they are not trash. Puma one seems ****ty but I ll just train with that one.. It doesn't come with the storage box tho, is it still a decent buy?
 

Legion

Staff member
Thanks for the answers. I ll skip that one and keep looking.

What about those?






View attachment 1833672
The yellow is a "puma best puma steel". I think it's not wide enough and has quite a frown right.
The other one just say solingen. I really like the handle of that one and it's very wide. I am worried about that chip at the point ( I used an arrow), is that problematic? Can I fix it somehow?

They are both 30€, 15 each. I may grab both if they are not trash. Puma one seems ****ty but I ll just train with that one.. It doesn't come with the storage box tho, is it still a decent buy?
The Puma looks a bit far gone. The other is ok. That chip shouldn't be too hard to correct if you are handy. It might involve shortening the blade a couple of mm. shouldn't be noticeable.
 
Thanks for the answers. I ll skip that one and keep looking.

What about those?






View attachment 1833672
The yellow is a "puma best puma steel". I think it's not wide enough and has quite a frown right.
The other one just say solingen. I really like the handle of that one and it's very wide. I am worried about that chip at the point ( I used an arrow), is that problematic? Can I fix it somehow?

They are both 30€, 15 each. I may grab both if they are not trash. Puma one seems ****ty but I ll just train with that one.. It doesn't come with the storage box tho, is it still a decent buy?

The broken toe is easy to deal with.

This razor had a similar toe when I got it.

https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/attachments/dscn0930b-jpg.1098421/

I held it in my hand dry, and rounded off the toe
using the action that I used to use as a child
sharpening an ice cream stick on the sidewalk,
with one of these:

image_25043.jpg
 
Take your time and buy razors in the best condition for your price point. There are tons of razors in the wild.

Here in the US, you can buy razors in good condition for $5-10 at antique stores and $2-10 at Antique flea markets.

But there are some deals on-line for nice unbranded razors. The Solingen razor will clean up and as said the toe is an easy fix, with a diamond plate, carborundum stone or 220 wet and dry.

Some 600 and 1k wet and dry and a wine cork will clean the blade up nicely. Personally $30 for a razor in that condition would be on the high side, but if you do not have access to antique stores or flea markets, it’s not that far out of line, if you end up with a restored shaver for $30. And you get to learn razor restoration and worst case the razor has unseen issues, it’s only $30.

Just don’t feel you need to buy, another will come along in a few hours, literally.

Enjoy, ask questions and post your progress.
 
Take your time and buy razors in the best condition for your price point. There are tons of razors in the wild.

Here in the US, you can buy razors in good condition for $5-10 at antique stores and $2-10 at Antique flea markets.

But there are some deals on-line for nice unbranded razors. The Solingen razor will clean up and as said the toe is an easy fix, with a diamond plate, carborundum stone or 220 wet and dry.

Some 600 and 1k wet and dry and a wine cork will clean the blade up nicely. Personally $30 for a razor in that condition would be on the high side, but if you do not have access to antique stores or flea markets, it’s not that far out of line, if you end up with a restored shaver for $30. And you get to learn razor restoration and worst case the razor has unseen issues, it’s only $30.

Just don’t feel you need to buy, another will come along in a few hours, literally.

Enjoy, ask questions and post your progress.

Thanks for your time and thoughtful reply.

I did buy some nice wet stones (naniwa advanced), luckily I bought a 220 one. It's been very useful to restore some old knifes around my parents house. So to fix the toe, I can lap just the tip at the 220 wet stone right? Circular motion like, should I angle it like a knife?

About the stone progression. I have 220 1k 8k 12k, do you think it's a must to have a stone between 1k and 8k? I don't think i ll restore razors often. But if I need one, it's best to have a 3k or 5k? I think both are too much for me.

I didn't understand your instructions for cleaning though. "Some 600 and 1k wet" do you mean sandpaper grit? It's the method I found here and I am planning to try it. What did you mean with wine cork? I didn't understand sorry.

Another thing is about disinfection. Do you use alcohol or another product, or it's just pointless because of sanding and honing protects it already?

About the sandpaper, is it fine to use it with hands for now? Saw a post they advised not to, but couldn't understand the alternative, the photos were all gone 😞

I did buy the solingen, the handle was just too nice for me. It was actually 15€, but I negotiated and bought another 2 razors and a cage for more 15€ 😅. They are not as pretty but look solid.

Sorry about so many questions, feel free to skip some. I might figure it out on the go, it's just so much new stuff
 

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Yes, the 220 will work, but a diamond plate will make lapping your stones regularly much easier. You can use a sheet of 220 and a marble or granite floor tile or piece of glass to lap your stones and to make the repairs.

Rub the toe on the sandpaper with the blade 90 degrees to the paper and substrate to shape the toe.

Depending on which Naniwia stones you have, a 3,4,5 or 6k will make the jump easier, but some 8k’s, like the Naniwia Snow White or Fuji will easily make the jump.

You will not use a 220 stone much except for edge repair, but I prefer using wet & 220 dry sandpaper or a diamond plate. You can buy a good diamond plate for $30, 400/1000 grit.

Wrap a synthetic wine cork in 600 or 1000 grit wet & dry cut into 3-inch pieces. The cork will allow you to sand the curved belly of the razor, and also works well on the flat parts. When the paper stops cutting, just roll the cork so a fresh strip of sandpaper is now on the razor.

Always use a backer or you will make an uneven surface.

Good buy on that razor, just remember there are a ton of razors in the wild. I picked up a nice Wostenholm today, with almost no spine wear, no pitting and very lite rust at an Antique store, $10.

The other 2 look ok, hard to tell from the photo. But be aware that the second one from the bottom razor, is in full blown Celluloid off gassing and has eaten the whole blade and the black one with the mother of pearl inlay may have been contaminated. Beware of Cell Rot off gassing.

No problem asking questions.
 
Thanks again it is much clearer now.

Yea that bottom razor looks really nasty, it was off putting right away. But it was nice to learn about the cause and that it can spread.

Do you just wrap the paper around the cork? Or do I have to glue it, or do something else to fix it there.

Have fun with your new acquisition. I ll for sure look for antique stores if I keep restoring razors.
 
Nope no glue, hand sanding you will go through lots of paper, buy good, high quality Wet and Dry and change it when you feel or see that it stops cutting, paper is cheap bought in bulk.

Look at the (Grit suggestion for this Doble Temple 14) post for photo of the sanding tools I use.

May make it clearer.
 
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