Is the bevel telling me th blade is warped?
- Thread starter Nxspam
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Actually I have a Dovo where on one side at the toe the bevel disappears completely whereas it gets broader on the other side. At a close inspection from the front the grind is definitely asymmetric. So yes. In my case the broadening if the bevel is an indicator for a warped blade.
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- #3
Same here. At the same position on the blade where the bevel tapers to the thinnest, the opposite side is just fine, a nice wide bevel.
I've been honing it taped. Should I stop taping and hone it "bareback" (if you'll pardon the expression
?
i think it's more than no tape vs tape.. propoer honing without tape might minimize the warp, but won't eliminate it likely, unless there was so much metal at edge and spine like a near/full wedge
if the blade is warped, what would honing the spine do? the edge would still have a warp at the edge, i would think. it might look less so but it would still be there.
If the problem was a asymmetric grind, (where one side of the spine is larger than the other from the mid point along the length spine) then honing spine would get them equivalent...
I think a solution is a rolling x stroke or a narrower stone. both would likely accomplish a more even bevel.
however, i have minimal experience compared to professional hone-meisters, but enough experience to suggest this as a possible solution.
if the blade is warped, what would honing the spine do? the edge would still have a warp at the edge, i would think. it might look less so but it would still be there.
If the problem was a asymmetric grind, (where one side of the spine is larger than the other from the mid point along the length spine) then honing spine would get them equivalent...
I think a solution is a rolling x stroke or a narrower stone. both would likely accomplish a more even bevel.
however, i have minimal experience compared to professional hone-meisters, but enough experience to suggest this as a possible solution.
Like global_dev wrote, you might read this: http://tinyurl.com/a6whh98
​Good luck with the blade and happy new year!
​Good luck with the blade and happy new year!
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- #6
Hey guys, thanks for the link and the advice. I'm considering a honing session with no tape on a lower grit to try to even things out, even if I can't get it near perfect. It will put wear on the spine, but its just an older restore project, and it doesn't have to look immaculate, it just needs to shave well. I'll go to the link and read before I make a move.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
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- #7
Well, just read the article and I'm watching Lynn's video. Looks like I have to get comfortable with a rolling X stroke. Thank god I have some old blades to practice on.
Very grateful for the advice guys, cheers.
Very grateful for the advice guys, cheers.
not a big fan of tiny urls or url shorteners so if anyone else was curious it leads to
http://www.coticule.be/the-cafeteria/message/5106.html
great discussion, thanks for posting it.
i knew there was a reason i liked smiling blades more... i just didn't know why until now.
Great advice so far.
For me, I wouldn't try to even things out IMO. I ruined a Dovo Special trying that...I ended up with even more uneve hone wear, and I still needed to x-stroke the thing.
I would sharpie the edge to see if the bevel is getting hit evenly on both sides. If it does I would leave it as is and chalk it up to a bad grind and enjoy a shave off it. A warped blade sometimes has mirror opposite bevels/hone wear on either side. Bad grinds have different bevels.
For me, I wouldn't try to even things out IMO. I ruined a Dovo Special trying that...I ended up with even more uneve hone wear, and I still needed to x-stroke the thing.
I would sharpie the edge to see if the bevel is getting hit evenly on both sides. If it does I would leave it as is and chalk it up to a bad grind and enjoy a shave off it. A warped blade sometimes has mirror opposite bevels/hone wear on either side. Bad grinds have different bevels.
The other thing that it may be is that in the manufacturing, the hollow grinding didn't remove as much metal in that section and the blade is just slightly thicker there where it is getting wider, so the end result is that the blade may still be straight but that thicker section of the blade is contacting the stone higher up (because it is thicker). The reason I say this is that I have just spent about 6 hours today grinding up a straight razor from a old file so that I would have something to practice on whilst I wait for my Dovo to arrive from Poland, about 1/2 way there on the blade, I also have noticed the same thing on mine, as I only have limited tools to do this and only an old 8" grinder to hollow grind the blade free hand which really is too big, but I think that I managed to do a reasonable job, will have to hit it with a fine diamond burr bit to remove the extra material as using the big grinder will instantly overheat the edge. Then polishing and making scales, tempering and then sharpening/stropping and hopefully it should be good to go. Otherwise I will have wasted a few days of my time but it is a good learning curve on how to sharpen these things, that is just my opinion and may not apply to your razor.
Cheers
EdB
Cheers
EdB
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- #11
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- #12
Kentos: it is a mirror opposite.
I have honed some straight edges that were straight from bread knifing it but the spine is curved-this lead to very uneven bevels.
Ah. Depending on how bad the warp is, you will need to hone it on a narrowish stone and use a rolling x. On a wide stone you can press the middle warp out of it, but it will lead to really wonky bevels. On a badly warped one the razor won't get uniformly sharp up and down the bevel since using excess pressure to straighten the razor out wont allow you to use a light touch critical good finishing. It will get sharp, but not sharp enough. YMMV of course, but its a good time to learning the rolling x
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- #15
Ah. Depending on how bad the warp is, you will need to hone it on a narrowish stone and use a rolling x. On a wide stone you can press the middle warp out of it, but it will lead to really wonky bevels. On a badly warped one the razor won't get uniformly sharp up and down the bevel since using excess pressure to straighten the razor out wont allow you to use a light touch critical good finishing. It will get sharp, but not sharp enough. YMMV of course, but its a good time to learning the rolling x
You cant see the warp with the naked eye, but its there. I've watched Lynn's video and I'll watch it again. This blade will give me some good practice.
Thanks.
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