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Is Neatsfoot the Only Oil Suitable for a Strop?

I’ve used both Neatsfoot oil and Lexal on: saddles, tack, bike leathers and strops. Never had any issues.

I also have some Montana Pitch blend I might try although the pitch and beeswax make me wonder about the blade sticking to the strop more than desired...
 
I have recently used Feibing’s Aussie leather conditioner. But this was used along with neatsfoot in reconditioning old dry vintage veg tanned leather for use on a paddle strop. It has some beeswax in it.
 
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Big +1 on the Dubbin. Or you know, “Graisse” in French.

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FYI. For anyone looking for Dubbin, try a tack store. People seem to love it on saddles.
 
I've had good results with small amounts of mink oil in certain circumstances.
The mink oil you see in stores for shoes is all a mix of petroleum products, why not use the real deal? You can find real mink oil here: Trapper's MINK OIL TALLOW, patch grease, for match shooting & cold weather hunting, one 8 oz. tin - Track of the Wolf I've never seen real mink oil for sale anywhere else, but I would think that it would be better for leather than the artificial stuff.
 
I have long been told that: "any animal fat" is suitable for strop dressing. My recipe is a blend of beef tallow and beeswax. It also works fine for treating wooden cutting boards, salad bowls, wooden spoons and knife handles. If you are a muzzleloader, it's also an old recipe for ball patch lube.
 
I have long been told that: "any animal fat" is suitable for strop dressing. My recipe is a blend of beef tallow and beeswax. It also works fine for treating wooden cutting boards, salad bowls, wooden spoons and knife handles. If you are a muzzleloader, it's also an old recipe for ball patch lube.

Do you melt the beeswax into the tallow. Curious that tallow May become rancid.

I recently used a product Feibing’s Aussie leather conditioner..... I’m told it’s neatsfoot, petroleum jelly and beeswax. Once set rub off excessive beeswax to get desired draw.......
 
I really like neatsfoot for leather; I've used it for years in several leatherworking projects. As for stropping, I've only just started shaving with a straight, so I haven't had to think about that yet.

I just looked at the maker's page for the one I bought - Portland Razor - and it says they used neatsfoot when making it, so I'll stick to that if it ever needs it.
 
Do you melt the beeswax into the tallow. Curious that tallow May become rancid.

I recently used a product Feibing’s Aussie leather conditioner..... I’m told it’s neatsfoot, petroleum jelly and beeswax. Once set rub off excessive beeswax to get desired draw.......
My Grandfather did a lot of woodworking, including cuttingboards, and wooden bowls. He left a jar of tallow + beeswax to my Dad, who also made a lot of cuttingboards and wooden kitchen items. I have that jar today - it must be around 80 years old & isn't rancid.

I've also been rendering my own beef fat into tallow, and my recipe of tallow + beeswax to use in muzzleloading rifles is over 40 years old. It isn't rancid, either.

Tallow and wax melt nicely using a container heated in boiling water.
 
My Grandfather did a lot of woodworking, including cuttingboards, and wooden bowls. He left a jar of tallow + beeswax to my Dad, who also made a lot of cuttingboards and wooden kitchen items. I have that jar today - it must be around 80 years old & isn't rancid.

I've also been rendering my own beef fat into tallow, and my recipe of tallow + beeswax to use in muzzleloading rifles is over 40 years old. It isn't rancid, either.

Tallow and wax melt nicely using a container heated in boiling water.
How much wax do you use to the beef tallow?
 
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