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Is my Slim Adjustable broken? Advice wanted

Or does it just need some TLC? I stupidly left it sitting for a long time with a blade in it, TTO ring all the way tight. When I tried to open it today the TTO knob really resisted my efforts, almost couldn't get it to move. I finally got it to open, but now that last quarter turn is really stiff tightening and loosening. I soaked it in dish soap and water for several hours and that had no effect. Maybe it needs some oil? But what kind and how to do that? Maybe there's something else I should do to get it to operate smoothly?
 
Sounds like it's full of built up crud from years gone by that had time to dry out.
IDK, it looks very clean, I've had it many years, used it frequently and then more occasionally. Always rinsed and dried the accessible areas. Maybe it's got crud in it internally. It does kind of squeak when I tighten or loosen the TTO ring.
 
What’s the best way to get it clean internally? I have an ultrasonic cleaner, but I hesitate to use it because I’m afraid it would damage the plating.
 

ajkel64

Check Out Chick
Staff member
I would try soaking it in dishwashing liquid and warm to hot water. When I buy a Slim I normally drip straight dishwashing liquid down the handle from the top. I let it soak inside it for a while then drop it in the hot soapy water. I will do this several times and sometimes a pour very hot water down the sides of the baseplate and you should see that gunk that comes out after several soaks and cleans.
 

musicman1951

three-tu-tu, three-tu-tu
What’s the best way to get it clean internally? I have an ultrasonic cleaner, but I hesitate to use it because I’m afraid it would damage the plating.

The best way is to take it all apart, then you can really get at all the individual parts.

Then post again when you need to put it back together. I will, unfortunately, not be responding to that post as I am rarely successful in that part of any adventure. Good luck.
 
What’s the best way to get it clean internally? I have an ultrasonic cleaner, but I hesitate to use it because I’m afraid it would damage the plating.

I would be very surprised if your ultrasonic cleaner could damage the finish. If any plating comes off, it wasn’t really attached anymore anyway. I usually use dish soap and water in mine with a healthy splash of vinegar.


The best way is to take it all apart, then you can really get at all the individual parts.

Then post again when you need to put it back together. I will, unfortunately, not be responding to that post as I am rarely successful in that part of any adventure. Good luck.

I have taken apart and reassembled two slims, and having done so, I’d caution against it unless you want to purchase a really cheap one to practice on. It’s not hard to do, but it is really easy to damage in the process. (My “beater” slim now has a gouge on the handle.)

My best suggestion would be to soak it in a dish soap / hot water / vinegar solution until it is no longer hot, then a few cycles in the ultra sonic with the same solution. One note - if your numbers are still painted, the ultra sonic may remove it, but they’re easy to repaint.
 
I let it soak in dish soap and water for another 8 hours or so, rinsed it well and let it dry. It's much better now, still slightly stiff to turn the last 1/4 of the way, but no squeaking and it has a smooth feel. I don't worry that it will get stuck closed anymore. I don't have any mineral oil around, but when I get some I'll put a few drops in. I like this razor a lot, one of my favorites and also one of my first DE purchases long ago.
 
I've picked up many TTOs and adjustables in antique stores and check if the last 1/4 turn is there (for adjustables), and I have a tendency to fidget and keep locking and unlocking the razor and nearly every time the handle will become harder to turn and usually stop. At that point I know that everything is fine mechanically, but I've just broken all of the hardened soap loose from the spring and it's jamming the mechanism--the soap breaks away from the spring better dry than after soaking. When I get home, I open the razor doors fully (for Black Beauties, take a pocket knife and separate the silver end cap from the razor--it will pop off and pop back in later, just don't lose it). With the razor full open, pump some Dawn into the end of the razor up to the top; place your thumb or finger on top of the soap (to trap the soap between the bottom of the razor and your finger--get a willing spouse to help if needed) and then open and close the razor several times without taking your finger/thumb away from the end of the razor. When the soap level drops, replace it a few mores times and keep pumping the soap to where it needs to be. What it does is force the soap deep into the spring mechanism where it can dissolve and put the crud and old soap into suspension. Then open the doors, fill the end of the handle with soap and leave it to soak in hot soapy water over night. Most times, I get antsy and test the razor after an hour or so and nearly every time that short bit of time will have restored the 1/4 turn, but just fill it back up with soap and let it sit. Just soaking it in soapy water will work, but pumping the soap into the handle under (low) pressure works quicker and more completely and lasts longer--without having to use an ultrasonic cleaner (you can buy a lot of Dawn for that price). FWIW
 
What’s the best way to get it clean internally? I have an ultrasonic cleaner, but I hesitate to use it because I’m afraid it would damage the plating.

The ultrasonic cleaner won't harm the plating, but the paint on the numbers will be eradicated.
 
Lord NSIC, I will follow your advice, even though my previous soaks in dish soap seem to have really helped the problem. I'd prefer not to subject this razor to the ultrasonic since the paint in the numbers is pretty intact.
 
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