Simply question? If my razor is cleanly cutting hairs off my arm, then have I set the bevel correctly? This is my first go at honeing and I'm nearly ready to throwing the towel. I was watching this video and it seemed simple but, I could never feel or see the dam burr he is talking about. Also, I think i'm applying too much presure.
Is my bevel set?
- Thread starter Nuke
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Maybe. Was it completely dull before? If it was completely dulled before and now shaving arm hair with ease then you have a new bevel at least at some part of your edge. Now make sure it is equally sharp from heel to toe and you are set. Bevel set is 99%. Trying to raise a burr is completely unnecessary even though some claim it is the only way.
You can get a razor to grab arm hair mid air after the 1k, I dont move to another stone before it can do that. You can shave arm hair at skin level with a wonky bevel, so there is that. You really need to feel that grab at the hair, preferably mid air imo. Then I would say you have a bevel.
The last strokes on the 1k should be fairly light to get a precision edge.
The last strokes on the 1k should be fairly light to get a precision edge.
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- #4
I glassed it half a dozen times, honed it million differrent ways, after watching the various youtube video's, on a 800 nawina super stone. I was never convinced I had set the bevel. I got fed up with the whole thing and just to see what would happen I decided to stone stropped a half a dozen times on the 800. I then did the same (only I did 20 laps) on the nawina 3000. I then went to the linen and leather strop and did 10 laps on the linen with Thiers paste on it and finally 20 laps onto the leather. Amazingly after all that it shaves no bother. So, I guess I've set the bevel after all that.
Trying to shave arm hair with only a bevel set will bit into the hair and feel ridiculously sharp.
I have mentioned before my dislike for the burr. You do NOT need to raise a burr. Many do not know what they are looking for and can't actually feel it until it is far bigger than need be which can lead to more problems when getting rid of it.
If the edge is biting along its entire length. Its set. You could also try the cherry tomato. If it slices the skin with no pressure along the whole edge - its set.
I have mentioned before my dislike for the burr. You do NOT need to raise a burr. Many do not know what they are looking for and can't actually feel it until it is far bigger than need be which can lead to more problems when getting rid of it.
If the edge is biting along its entire length. Its set. You could also try the cherry tomato. If it slices the skin with no pressure along the whole edge - its set.
If it worked for you, great! But stopping your stone work in the 3000 range can leave a lot to be desired in your shave. Maybe the strop paste helped you finish the edge so it wasn’t so harsh. You might want to consider some finer stone(s) to help refine and smooth your edge. Most wont shave off anything less than 8000 range of synthetics. So you might try some and see what they can do for you. But from the sound of it you have a bevel on your edge. How good is probably something you will have to determine. Glad you got a bevel and I think you can avoid chasing the burr in the future.
- Thread starter
- #7
I have a Nawina 10000 comming in the post so, when it comes I'll do a few laps off of that.
What do you use to keep your stones flat?
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- #9
Nothing yet these were brand new Nawina's but, I suppose the next time I have a go i'll use sandpaper on something flat.
Please don’t use sandpaper, get something like an Atoma 400
Why not sandpaper ? just curious
You may absolutely use sandpaper, so long as it is wet/dry paper and you have a flat surface it will work very quickly and efficiently.
The only time paper is not recommended is for Ceramic type hones where the grit could possibly lodge in the stone IMO.
Many manufacturers don't recommend paper for that reason but with 99% of Waterstones they work great with no issue. Ceramic being the 1%.
A diamond plate is a luxury, not a necessity. If going diamond, the Atoma's are very good plates albeit pricey.
W/D is cheap and works every bit as fast and good.
The only time paper is not recommended is for Ceramic type hones where the grit could possibly lodge in the stone IMO.
Many manufacturers don't recommend paper for that reason but with 99% of Waterstones they work great with no issue. Ceramic being the 1%.
A diamond plate is a luxury, not a necessity. If going diamond, the Atoma's are very good plates albeit pricey.
W/D is cheap and works every bit as fast and good.
Yeah I can say that shapton glass will atleast eat up that wet and dry sandpaper and imbed in the stone. Have tried naguras to refresh the surface but same there it eats up the stone and embed in it. They are just too aggressive, only a diamond plate works with good results there.
I have had particles of sandpaper come off and get imbedded in my hones long ago, not sure on W/D paper but for me common sense told me to buy the proper item to flatten and clean my Shapton GS stones along with my JNATS/ Coticules
I won’t say you can’t but I personally would not consider using $10 sandpaper on a $400 JNAT but that’s just my opinion, as far as a diamond plate being a luxury I say everything between a 1k and JNAT is a luxury as you can use a 1K to set the bevel and then JNAT to do the rest just ask Alex G. of Japan stone but we choose to use our 4,8 and 12k’s to save time and $$ so why not get a Atoma 400 and be done, you will never wear it out
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You won't see the burr as you would a larger knife , take a straight razor as the next extension from larger knife ,for the bevel ..GLARE IT IN THE LIGHT
HERE IS AN EXAMPLE OF WHAT YOU DONT WANT, keep in mind you can take off steel , but not bring back ...
And won't have to be perfect for a great edge
A 6k - 8k and leather ( maybe some paste is all you need
Going from 12k plus to leather just a waste of time in my opinion
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Added bonus of getting a 400 diamond plate is that you can use to set a bevel a lot faster with it.
