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Is it possible to over-strop a razor?

I personally have done a few informal tests and I used a few different strops over the course of several months and I started at 25 laps and stopped at 100 and did this with several razors over various medias from kangaroo to cordovan and to be honest there was a minimal difference for my shaves.

Keep in mind I never used a loupe to look at edges and based it all on just the shave which in the end for me that’s all that matters, I say if you want to do a lot of laps before your shave then have at it but IMHO I believe technique is more important than how many laps you do. YMMV
 
I personally have done a few informal tests and I used a few different strops over the course of several months and I started at 25 laps and stopped at 100 and did this with several razors over various medias from kangaroo to cordovan and to be honest there was a minimal difference for my shaves.

Keep in mind I never used a loupe to look at edges and based it all on just the shave which in the end for me that’s all that matters, I say if you want to do a lot of laps before your shave then have at it but IMHO I believe technique is more important than how many laps you do. YMMV

For the past decade of straight razor honing and shaving, this has been my experience too. I think sometimes this forum has discussions that go way too far down different rabbit holes quite honestly. And to the detriment of newer members just starting out.

Leather and linen strops have been around and in use for decades. I've never over-stropped a razor however, I did when I first started out actually improperly stropped a razor that resulted in a nicked strop and a slightly ruined edge. For the novice reading this:

Strop your razor properly using 25-50-100 strokes/laps whatever you want to call them. If you are bored and like to strop to music, strop to your hearts content. But just do so properly and using the correct technique.
 
Stropping on a loose strop is best for those who prefer a more convex (less keen) edge. The convexity effectively increases the bevel angle. I am not one of those.
Ah. I'm not sure at what point the less keen edge becomes a dulled edge, however.
 
For the past decade of straight razor honing and shaving, this has been my experience too. I think sometimes this forum has discussions that go way too far down different rabbit holes quite honestly. And to the detriment of newer members just starting out.

Leather and linen strops have been around and in use for decades. I've never over-stropped a razor however, I did when I first started out actually improperly stropped a razor that resulted in a nicked strop and a slightly ruined edge. For the novice reading this:

Strop your razor properly using 25-50-100 strokes/laps whatever you want to call them. If you are bored and like to strop to music, strop to your hearts content. But just do so properly and using the correct technique.
I don't have an objective measure what this means for the blade edge, but I've cut back on the number of laps: 15 on the linen, 30 on the leather.
 
I don't have an objective measure what this means for the blade edge, but I've cut back on the number of laps: 15 on the linen, 30 on the leather.

Your number of laps looks just fine to me. I don't get caught up in X number of laps really. And speaking of edges ......

When I first started out and lost or couldn't find an edge. Or perhaps when I had no idea if my edge had dulled, I damaged it on the strop, etc. my solution was to send my razor to a hone-meister to have it looked at and honed again. I did this twice before deciding to learn for myself, how to hone and touch up my own razors.

I'm not suggesting that you follow that path. But, if you have lost your way on your edge, send it out to be honed or refreshed and start anew. After awhile (everyone's learning curve is different), you will zero in on those key indicators that will tell you that your edge is in need of refreshing. In the meantime, you could familiarize yourself with edge refreshing methods that others here subscribe to.

Best of luck on your shaves.
 
I see. The HHT will measure the result
I have never tried this test before, so i tested two of my razors in my rotation. Both of these have over 20 shaves on them. So i know that they shave well. After 20+ shaves there really should not be any micro burrs on the edge. I get no alum feedback after i shave. These are stopped before and after each shave. On average i do around 50 passes before and after each shave. For 20 shaves this gives over 2000 passes on leather in total. In addition i use linen to dry the blade.
They also do pass the hanging hair test. I did not have any dark coarse hair laying around, but it did cut my daughters thin blonde hair quite well.
To me this test just tells me the edge could be much keener. If you are able to get a close shave with that type of edge that is the important part. I never did well with those types of edges.

 
Your number of laps looks just fine to me. I don't get caught up in X number of laps really. And speaking of edges ......

When I first started out and lost or couldn't find an edge. Or perhaps when I had no idea if my edge had dulled, I damaged it on the strop, etc. my solution was to send my razor to a hone-meister to have it looked at and honed again. I did this twice before deciding to learn for myself, how to hone and touch up my own razors.

I'm not suggesting that you follow that path. But, if you have lost your way on your edge, send it out to be honed or refreshed and start anew. After awhile (everyone's learning curve is different), you will zero in on those key indicators that will tell you that your edge is in need of refreshing. In the meantime, you could familiarize yourself with edge refreshing methods that others here subscribe to.

Best of luck on your shaves.
Thank you for the suggestion. I’ve reached that point. I have a freshly honed Le Dandy back from Portland Razor. I’m using this as my base line. I’m inspecting the edge every couple of days to see how it deteriorates.

My Ralf Aust, which was honed so has a good bevel, needs to be refreshed. I will use my stones to do that instead of sending it in.

I’m not sure why the Ralf Aust edge deteriorated so quickly. I got 40 shaves off of it, but had to whet it three times.
 
Thank you for the suggestion. I’ve reached that point. I have a freshly honed Le Dandy back from Portland Razor. I’m using this as my base line. I’m inspecting the edge every couple of days to see how it deteriorates.

My Ralf Aust, which was honed so has a good bevel, needs to be refreshed. I will use my stones to do that instead of sending it in.

I’m not sure why the Ralf Aust edge deteriorated so quickly. I got 40 shaves off of it, but had to whet it three times.

The first place that I looked when I started was my strop technique. Take your time on your strokes making sure of 100% spine contact on the flip. Also making sure that your entire edge is on the strop.

40 shaves is a great stretch as some of my edges waned before then. Incidentally, my very first straight was a Ralf Aust 5/8 round point. I really think that they make a solid straight. No need to go all the way back to bevel. Not sure what progression or method you use but if you have a JNAT, I wouldn't go any further back than Tenjou.

Best of luck.
 
Thank you for the suggestion. I’ve reached that point. I have a freshly honed Le Dandy back from Portland Razor. I’m using this as my base line. I’m inspecting the edge every couple of days to see how it deteriorates.

My Ralf Aust, which was honed so has a good bevel, needs to be refreshed. I will use my stones to do that instead of sending it in.

I’m not sure why the Ralf Aust edge deteriorated so quickly. I got 40 shaves off of it, but had to whet it three times.
A high shave angle will kill an edge quicker too. Something I have to remind myself sometimes.
 
Thank you for the suggestion. I’ve reached that point. I have a freshly honed Le Dandy back from Portland Razor. I’m using this as my base line. I’m inspecting the edge every couple of days to see how it deteriorates.

My Ralf Aust, which was honed so has a good bevel, needs to be refreshed. I will use my stones to do that instead of sending it in.

I’m not sure why the Ralf Aust edge deteriorated so quickly. I got 40 shaves off of it, but had to whet it three time
The first place that I looked when I started was my strop technique. Take your time on your strokes making sure of 100% spine contact on the flip. Also making sure that your entire edge is on the strop.

40 shaves is a great stretch as some of my edges waned before then. Incidentally, my very first straight was a Ralf Aust 5/8 round point. I really think that they make a solid straight. No need to go all the way back to bevel. Not sure what progression or method you use but if you have a JNAT, I wouldn't go any further back than Tenjou.

Best of luck.
My Ralf Aust is a 6/8 Spanish point
A high shave angle will kill an edge quicker too. Something I have to remind myself sometimes.
That’s good to know. As the blade dulls one compensates by increasing the angle. With what you’ve said, one should go to the stones instead to avoid accelerating the dulling.
 
Bumping this thread a little instead of beginning a new one.

I set the bevel and honed up a vintage Bengall 5/8 awhile back. My first test shave was satisfactory but just didn't have my normal JNAT edge feel to it. And so, I set it aside for another go later in the rotation. A couple of days later I picked it up again and thought about options to try. I could go back to the stones, I could try pasted linen or balsa or, I could strop some more.

And so to set out and prove a point to myself and maybe people here just starting out, I have decided to pick up my Bengall 5/8 any time that I find myself in the shave den (several times a day) and perform numerous proper, rhythmic, slow and effect strop strokes on leather. I will be doing this until the Bengall comes up in the rotation again. How many sessions? I have no idea because I am not counting. My focus will be on rhythmic and proper application of the strop and not speed or a certain number of laps. I will be focusing on tactile and auditory feedback and my intuition.

I want to prove that I don't always have to go back to the stones or look outside of anything other than a proper application of the tried and true leather strop to tame an edge and make it behave. I also hope to be able to share with those just starting out that they need not follow down any number of rabbit holes to maintain an edge. If a Man can learn to properly use his strop to effectively maintain his edges, the longevity of those edges will be lengthened without the need to send out an edge to have it touched up. Or for those of us who do hone, lessen the need to push slurry around all the time.

The strop ...... it's been good enough for hundreds of years. Don't overlook it or its usefulness and purpose in your set up.
 
A simple way to prolong edge life is to properly clean the edge/bevel after shaving.

Edges, actual shaving edges deteriorate primality because of rust. Rust/oxidation eats an edge and razor edges are very thin. Many micrographs of the actual edge exist, you can not see them with handheld magnification or USB scopes.

So, think about what causes an edge to deteriorate, what does your edge touch. Your face/ skin, beard, soap, water, or strop. Except for the strop and dirt, non are by themselves are abrasive.

Most folks just wipe the blade dry, avoiding the edge and put the razor up for shaving the next day. On the bevel are soap, blood, beard hair, dirt and water (containing numerous minerals). All retain moisture and that moisture eats steel, eats the edge in the form of oxidation/rust.

So, if you simply remove the moisture from the bevel and edge, it will last longer. How do you do that?

Simple, wipe the blade, bevel and edge with a cloth or paper and strop on linen. You don’t want to strop on leather because you then transfer all the above to your leather. Yup, you have been coating your leather strop with that shmutz for years.

Linen is abrasive, even cotton linen. Flax linen is very abrasive and will clean and polish a bevel and edge well and more importantly dry the bevel and edge.

It also does not hurt to regularly clean your linen and leather, which are where all the deep random scratches on you bevel come from. Scratches end as chips on your edge.

You can strop on linen to polish and straighten a bevel and edge. Linen is more abrasive than leather, but dirty leather is or can be as abrasive as linen, but the abrasives are random in size and material. Imagine what a single 1k piece of grit does to an edge.

I use line to clean, polish and dry the bevel and edge, leather to fine polish and straighten the edge. It is the last polish an edge will receive before it touches your face.
 
Over stropping will never fix an edge needing honed; but it can result in rolled edges, hairline edge fractures and microchipping visible under a loupe. Also the risk of cut or nicked strops due to inattention from repetitive strokes increases. If you enjoy doing a hundred laps no harm, but no benefits either.
 
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