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Is it my technique or my blade?

Hello fellow razor enthusiasts,

First apologies for the long post! The reason I was originally attracted to a straight razor wet shaving was the reports on the forums and the web that a straight razor will give you smooth shave with the least irritation. I am new to straight razor shaving and I am doing my best to trouble shoot my struggles. I recently purchased a 6/8 Ralf Aust and widely considered to be a great starter razor. When I received the razor, I tried a hanging hair test on the blade edge, and it failed. It seemed like the blade could have been sharper on arrival, however, I have nothing to compare it with since the Ralf Aust is my first straight razor. I decided that I would try shaving with the razor the way it came and evaluate from there. After shaving with it for about a week (20 strops on canvas/ 40 strops on English bridle leather). So far, my experience has been mixed, I can get a shave out of the razor, but I feel like the shave is anything but smooth and irritation free. I was hoping the blade would gently glide across my face effortlessly cutting my stubble much like some of my DE razors are able to do. I feel like I must apply way too much pressure on the razor to cut a day of growth. I have tried a lighter touch focusing on a few long strokes to minimize the irritation and avoid buffing an area over and over, however, the light touch feels like the razor is skipping over the stubble failing to cut and occasionally tangling or tugging. My suspicion is the added pressure is leading to extreme irritation that surpasses even some of my most aggressive DE Razors. This leads me to my next question, is the blade too light for a day’s growth of stubble? I have read some people say they prefer the extra heft of a heavier blade. Would I be smart to try a thicker grind? Am I better off with a 1/4 hollow over a full hollow? I did take a break from the straight razor and used my DE after seven straight days. Comparing the two I must admit that the DE gave me just as close of a shave with less irritation. That being said wet shaving is a hobby for and I am not ready to abandon straight razors I just want to know which point along the process am I falling short?
 
I was hoping the blade would gently glide across my face effortlessly cutting my stubble

This is a canard, in my experience, and not helpful for newbies as it establishes an expectation that reality will surely defy. Whilst you are learning, it will not feel like some magical piece of steel you merely need to wave near your face and whiskers will fly off to the sound of angelic trumpets. Over time, your technique will impove the experience, and the after shave feel will be sublime, but shaving itself, especially with a tougher beard, will be an effort.

the light touch feels like the razor is skipping over the stubble failing to cut and occasionally tangling or tugging.

I experienced this as well. The first thing I would do is send your razor out to a known good honer and get a reference edge. Once that is established, you can focus on the other variables. My Ralf Aust arrived sharp, but could have been sharper.
Would I be smart to try a thicker grind? Am I better off with a 1/4 hollow over a full hollow?

I enjoy thicker grinds, they work better for my beard. But before that, shave with a reference edge. Once you have done that, you may decide to go to something heftier. I have found that a Japanese Half-Hollow is pretty much the perfect grind,

Good luck, and don't be disheartened. The early exploratory phase passes quickly, and the quality of your shaves will soon surpass your best DE shaves. :badger:
 
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Several possibilities.

1 - the razor needs to be honed
2 - stropping skills need work
3 - lather needs improvement
4 - shaving technique might need help - stretching, angles, etc..
5 - all of the above

I would not think a different grind will change anything in the storyline. It takes a while to get all the plates spinning up in the air at one time, so patience is kay. Looking into #1-4 will probably help though.
 
Several possibilities.

1 - the razor needs to be honed
2 - stropping skills need work
3 - lather needs improvement
4 - shaving technique might need help - stretching, angles, etc..
5 - all of the above

I would not think a different grind will change anything in the storyline. It takes a while to get all the plates spinning up in the air at one time, so patience is kay. Looking into #1-4 will probably help though.
I would like to provide input given my recent transition into SR shaving.
I've been at it just over 1 month with a 6/8" Ralf Aust as one of my first razors in the arsenal. As @Gamma lists here is a fantastic starting point for troubleshooting. My other razors are TIs and were sent off to be honed once I had the chance, before I ever got around to using them. My Aust came as @silverlifter described; just sharp enough.

Comparatively speaking, I was able to shave well with my Aust without noticeable detriment (luckily). It was night and day after shaving with a razor which was worked by a Honemeister. This would be recommendation number 1. Send your razor out to someone who will set your edge on a path to success.

Recommendation number 2 - While that is being attended to, you have the perfect opportunity to practice stropping, and to continue practicing, and practice some more. To add clarification, there IS a difference in learning how to strop and how to develop proper stropping technique. Get a Gold Dollar (66 or 208) on the cheap to aid in this practice.

Thirdly, while I was preparing myself to transition into SRs, I made an effort to devolumize my shaving lather in pursuit of a wetter and slicker product. I still have a tendency to create a lather which I found desirable for DE shaving. A lather which is thicker, denser, pastier, etc I have not found to be a winning combination.

When I was shaving strictly by DE, I rarely found the need to stretch my skin to create a better cutting surface. Watching the blade angle and minding where that blade tip is at all rolls into this final recommendation.
 
Yeah, just to echo the others - send the razor to get honed for no other reason to remove a dull edge as a potential variable. Then just keep at it. It's most likely your technique. Shallow angle, light pressure.

I've been shaving regularly with a straight for more than a year now. I've gone from "when will I stop getting weepers and nicks?" to "when will I get a decent shave?" to "when will I stop getting irritated skin on my neck?" to nowadays more often than not "why can I get BBS seemingly everywhere but that one patch on my right jawline?"

Honestly, a shave with my Razorock GC .84 gives me a more consistent BBS that seems to last longer through the day. But I only use it on the mornings I have to wake up relatively early to get to the office on time. I like straight razor shaving better and glad I stuck with it. Just realize there's definitely a learning curve that takes longer to climb than with DEs.
 
Yeah, just to echo the others - send the razor to get honed for no other reason to remove a dull edge as a potential variable. Then just keep at it. It's most likely your technique. Shallow angle, light pressure.

If you are in the US, send the razor to Alfredo (@Doc226) for expert honing - send him a private message.

And then just keep at it with the understanding that, like any skill, it takes time - and you will be rewarded.
 
It is seldom that a new razor arrives in shave ready condition. If a new razor does come in shave ready, it is the rare exception. Send your razor out for honing. Once your razor is professionally honed, you can eliminate that variable and focus on face prep, lathering, technique and stropping. As @Gamma states above, it takes a while to get all those plates spinning. But unless you have a shave ready edge, it won't happen.
 
Hello fellow razor enthusiasts,

First apologies for the long post! The reason I was originally attracted to a straight razor wet shaving was the reports on the forums and the web that a straight razor will give you smooth shave with the least irritation. I am new to straight razor shaving and I am doing my best to trouble shoot my struggles. I recently purchased a 6/8 Ralf Aust and widely considered to be a great starter razor. When I received the razor, I tried a hanging hair test on the blade edge, and it failed. It seemed like the blade could have been sharper on arrival, however, I have nothing to compare it with since the Ralf Aust is my first straight razor. I decided that I would try shaving with the razor the way it came and evaluate from there. After shaving with it for about a week (20 strops on canvas/ 40 strops on English bridle leather). So far, my experience has been mixed, I can get a shave out of the razor, but I feel like the shave is anything but smooth and irritation free. I was hoping the blade would gently glide across my face effortlessly cutting my stubble much like some of my DE razors are able to do. I feel like I must apply way too much pressure on the razor to cut a day of growth. I have tried a lighter touch focusing on a few long strokes to minimize the irritation and avoid buffing an area over and over, however, the light touch feels like the razor is skipping over the stubble failing to cut and occasionally tangling or tugging. My suspicion is the added pressure is leading to extreme irritation that surpasses even some of my most aggressive DE Razors. This leads me to my next question, is the blade too light for a day’s growth of stubble? I have read some people say they prefer the extra heft of a heavier blade. Would I be smart to try a thicker grind? Am I better off with a 1/4 hollow over a full hollow? I did take a break from the straight razor and used my DE after seven straight days. Comparing the two I must admit that the DE gave me just as close of a shave with less irritation. That being said wet shaving is a hobby for and I am not ready to abandon straight razors I just want to know which point along the process am I falling short?
From what you are saying here, it sounds like the answer to your question is "both". If it fails the HHT then don't bother. Have your razor honed by someone who knows what they are doing - someone here with a good reputation. That way you reduce the factors leading to a bad shave.

Even when learning you razor still should be able to cut stubble easily.
 
A Ralf Aust 6/8" is a fairly large razor. You may eventually prefer larger razors but I do not think that is the problem. Most likely your edge was not sufficiently keen for your beard or you may have rolled the edge slightly when stropping. If you send your razor out for honing, try not stropping it the first time you use it to see if that might be the problem.
 
That’s the long and short of it. Doc226 does great work, and if you talk to any homed, ask them to hone and strop it for you. They likely will without having to ask. When you get it back, don’t strip it, just shave with it. There’s your reference.

Shallow angles means essentially the spine a spine’s width off your face shallow.

The rest of the advice is spot on to my experience figuring it out too. It just takes time starting with a good, shave ready edge
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
@silverlifter is right on the money. You need to be sure your SR is truly shave-ready. Ralf puts a good edge on his blades but they do not meet my standard of shave-ready, close but not quite there.
 
Ditto to everything everyone has already said. (Did you notice the amazing consistency in their responses?)

Technique is likely your biggest issue. Most experienced straight shavers can get a good shave from most any razor. But that said, if the tool isn't up to the job (not sharp enough or not consistently sharp along the whole edge), then the shave will be sub-par in even the most expert hands.

Make sure your blade is truly sharp. Have a straight razor expert hone it. (Most "professional" knife sharpeners are lost when it comes to honing a straight razor.) Then work on your technique.

And hang in there, it is well worth the effort.
 
This was similar to my experience. I started with a Ralf Aust straight from the manufacturer. I’ve had a few more since and none have been quite shave ready.

My first five shaves I had a lot of irritation and left over stubble. No nicks but not a good shave by any stretch. I then attempted honing it myself using the lapping film and diamond pasted balsa method. The first attempt was a fail. I clearly made the edge duller by lifting the spine. Second attempt, Bingo! Shave ready. My shaves improved quite quickly after that.

Passing a HHT is a must for me. I would not even attempt to shave with a razor that failed a HHT. It’s the minimum requirement.
 
Second attempt, Bingo! Shave ready. My shaves improved quite quickly after that.
I'm always amazed to read about those quick, almost instant success some of you have. For me it has been a process of more than a year before I was starting to be happy with the shaves off my SR edges and this process of learning and improving is far from being completed for me still after two years of exclusive SR shaving.

I either have to accept the fact that apparently I'm an exceptional slow learner or i must assume you are all Wunderkinder of honig and SR shaving. I prefer to believe in the second option.
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
@SilverSteel, when I started I followed The Method. This gave me a good shave-ready edge on the second try using just lapping films. I then added diamond pasted balsa strops to my honing routine. That immediately gave me even better shave-ready edges.

Over the next year or so and about 50 SR honings later, my edges were becoming perfect for me. I even had a (very) few edges matching Feather DE blades. I confirmed this by comparing them with a shavette fitted with a new Feather half-blade. From then on it was just playing around to learn more about honing and edge finishing.

Last year I started into experiencing natural whetstones. First is was an Adaee #12000 (still my favourite for some blades), a vintage coticule/BBW and lately a hard black Arkansas. Each of these natural whetstones produces a different result with each blade. It is all part of the fun trying to max out the finishes with different shave effects.

For pure keenness, the pasted balsa finish wins against all others. What I am experiencing now is different feeling edges.

I still can't get an edge, even a new or slightly used Feather DE edge, to pass a HHT. Must be my hair or technique. That doesn't bother me. It's only the shave test that counts.
 
I'm always amazed to read about those quick, almost instant success some of you have. For me it has been a process of more than a year before I was starting to be happy with the shaves off my SR edges and this process of learning and improving is far from being completed for me still after two years of exclusive SR shaving.

I either have to accept the fact that apparently I'm an exceptional slow learner or i must assume you are all Wunderkinder of honig and SR shaving. I prefer to believe in the second option.

I remember it taking me a few months to get the hang of using a DE and then around the one year mark the pieces really began to fall in place. Perhaps a little faster using a straight - around 100 shaves - as a result of the DE experience. But then, because of all of the experimenting with different razors and hones some bumps and potholes along the road. And I am still learning about 2.5 years after I started.
 
I have two Ralf Aust razors and both of them were well honed by Her Aust upon arrival. I have purchase some straight razors that needed honing. I have a very tough beard. I have found that using ultra fine hones and sub-micon abrasives on pasted strops are need to produce an ideal edge for my beard, but my beard destroys such a keen edge in only a few shaves, so I had to learn the art of honing.

A straight razor needs to be properly stropped. The strop clean and realigns the edge before the shave. It is like a chef using a steel to realign the edge of a carving knife. Unfortunately, stropping a razor is a skill to be learned. Many new SR shavers have rolled the edge by improper stropping. If you do not have a strop, get one soon. They range in price from around $10 for each Chinese ones to over $300 for a high-quality shell cordovan strop. A cheap strop may not do its job properly. Since new shavers are highly likely to cut an expensive strop until they master the art of stropping, I do not recommend them either. If you are on a budget, one of the Whipped Dog Poor Man's Strops ($16)will work. If you can afford more, check out Tony Miller's Plain Vanilla or Plain Chocolate strops. They are good enough to be a permanent strop, but not so expensive that you would freak out if you slice it (which is highly likely at first).

It could also be your technique. Preparing your beard by washing with soap and water to clean and hydrate your beard hairs softens the follicles making shaving easier. Using a high quality shaving lather also helps. I like to shave immediately after showering, but some people prepare their beard using hot towels.

One error many new SR shavers make is using a shave angle that is too high. If you are trying to shave with the blade at a 45 degree angle to your face, you won't get a comfortable shave. On the first pass with the grain of your beard, the blade should be no more than 30 degrees from your face. On the second pass across the grain, the angle should be around 20 degrees. On the third pass against the grain, the spine of the razor should barely clear the skin.

When first starting out, I recommend doing only the first pass (with the grain) using the straight razor and then finishing off your shave with a safety razor. Then as you get comfortable with the razor, try to do the 2nd or 3rd pass as well. I often use a mild safety razor with a super sharp blade for a 4th clean up pass to remove any stray stubble I may have left behind from earlier passes.
 
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I'm always amazed to read about those quick, almost instant success some of you have. For me it has been a process of more than a year before I was starting to be happy with the shaves off my SR edges and this process of learning and improving is far from being completed for me still after two years of exclusive SR shaving.

I either have to accept the fact that apparently I'm an exceptional slow learner or i must assume you are all Wunderkinder of honig and SR shaving. I prefer to believe in the second option.
I have been doing this for more then ten years. I must be a really slow learner :)
 
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