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Is a Strop Material with a Heavier Draw Necessarily more Aggressive?

duke762

Rose to the occasion
Is there any correlation? Is Russian finish more aggressive than say, regular cowhide? Is cowhide more aggressive than shell. Does the material the strop is made of affect the number of laps needed to finish?
 
Is there any correlation? Is Russian finish more aggressive than say, regular cowhide? Is cowhide more aggressive than shell. Does the material the strop is made of affect the number of laps needed to finish?


No.
The tactile feel of a strop, heavy draw/light draw is a cosmetic characteristic. It does not affect the capabilities of the strop.
A super fast light strop can be more effective than a heavy draw strop given the same number of strokes.
 
No.
The tactile feel of a strop, heavy draw/light draw is a cosmetic characteristic. It does not affect the capabilities of the strop.
A super fast light strop can be more effective than a heavy draw strop given the same number of strokes.

+1

The only exception to this I can think of is the old Dovo red strops from Jemico. The leather is supposedly treated with a very mild abrasive. It's not pasted per se but it's red finish is supposedly mildly abrasive.

I have one and use it occasionally for the purpose of helping my edge along just a touch. I love it and it works well that way.

Chris
 
To go out on a limb, I would say that increased draw and resistance are matched by increased pressure or control as needed or applied during the pass. This applies to certain oil-tanned strops, in particular, which are resistant to a lateral motion. Consequently, with increased pressure or control in these cases, fewer laps are needed. For example, I have a small Solingen paddle strop with an oil-tanned piece stretched across felt that works quite well in restoring the edge with around 10-12 laps. Great on the road.
 
Friction between blade and leather creates heat. Heat is required to more easily and effectively straighten the edge during stropping. Pressure is not your friend wrt stropping, but rather heat.

Try heating up your razor blade with hair dryer before stropping next time while keeping the pressure light...

You can thank me later :shaving:
 
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A super fast light strop can be more effective than a heavy draw strop given the same number of strokes.

Paul, this seems to imply that there is a difference. My above remark may run contrary to the predominant consensus; but if what you say is true, then there are two alternatives with heavy-draw strops, one to increase the lap count and the other to use a bit more guiding pressure to reduce the lap count. By guiding or increased pressure, I mean only enough to be in control of the blade's motion during the pass.
 
Paul, this seems to imply that there is a difference. My above remark may run contrary to the predominant consensus; but if what you say is true, then there are two alternatives with heavy-draw strops, one to increase the lap count and the other to use a bit more guiding pressure to reduce the lap count. By guiding or increased pressure, I mean only enough to be in control of the blade's motion during the pass.


Sorry for the late reply Alan - was away on the yearly camping trip :)

I thought the OP was asking if a heavier draw was in fact more effective (the way I read it).
For me the draw has no effect on the effectiveness of the strop. Tony Miller reiterated this in another thread. It is a tactile thing only.
I will try to find the thread and link it in a bit.
Some with heavy draw may be more effective and some with no draw can be most effective, there is no one over the other, meaning the draw has no effect on the effectiveness.

Friction between blade and leather creates heat. Heat is required to more easily and effectively straighten the edge during stropping. Pressure is not your friend wrt stropping, but rather heat.

Try heating up your razor blade with hair dryer before stropping next time while keeping the pressure light...

You can thank me later :shaving:


Yes a little warmth will aid in stropping but I would certainly NOT recommend putting a hair dryer to your strop.
A couple of rubs with the palm will warm things up enough.
 
Vintage strop question
Here is the question about draw Alan.





stone and strop


stone and strop






Most strops will have a different feel to them.
Just because you feel little draw does not mean it isn't doing its job, some strops are like that.
Unless it is dry I would not add anything to them but rather enjoy the variety that each brings to the table.
If you find one that is not as effective as the other you are not going to change the effectiveness through "seasoning" the strop IMO. You may increase the draw from oils or waxes but the leather itself is what's doing the work not the toppings you apply to them.
The products that are applied are only to keep the leather supple, add/remove draw.
The sweet slick draw from many vintage strops are very nice to strop on and most all are very effective.




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Jan 31, 2019 #4





Tony Miller


Tony Miller

Vendor









stone and strop said: ↑


Most strops will have a different feel to them.
Just because you feel little draw does not mean it isn't doing its job, some strops are like that.
Unless it is dry I would not add anything to them but rather enjoy the variety that each brings to the table.
If you find one that is not as effective as the other you are not going to change the effectiveness through "seasoning" the strop IMO. You may increase the draw from oils or waxes but the leather itself is what's doing the work not the toppings you apply to them.
The products that are applied are only to keep the leather supple, add/remove draw.
The sweet slick draw from many vintage strops are very nice to strop on and most all are very effective.

Click to expand...
This, exactly. Well said.

Dressings may enhance (or detract) from the draw and feel slightly but it is the characteristics of the leather itself that is the real determining factor. You are not going to change that drastically unless you use drastic measures (sanding) which I just would not do. Vintage strops often get burnished smooth from years or use and lots of dressing but seldom can be brought back the other way just by adding oils and fats.




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Sorry for the late reply Alan - was away on the yearly camping trip :)

I remember the shots from one of those trips! Hope you had a nice time and that the mosquitoes were kept at bay!

And thanks for the other links. To restate what I wrote earlier, my take is that with certain strops that have an increased draw leading to increased resistance with regard to a lateral motion during the pass, a bit more pressure (this being relative) is needed to achieve genuine control. Consequently, the lap count diminishes with increased friction or "heat" as thereby introduced.
 
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I remember the shots from one of those trips! Hope you had a nice time and that the mosquitoes were kept at bay!

And thanks for the other links. To restate what I wrote earlier, my take is that with certain strops that have an increased draw leading to increased resistance with regard to a lateral motion during the pass, a bit more pressure (this being relative) is needed to achieve genuine control. Consequently, the lap count diminishes with increased friction or "heat" as thereby introduced.


Yes, you do need more pressure to move it across the strop but that doesn't make it act faster - at least for me.
I had a Latigo strop at one point that had a very heavy draw, almost sticky. It did not work as well or even close to an old Red Imp I had, despite the friction. I ended up selling it.
Some just like the heavy draw and maybe even perceive that it, because of the friction, it IS in fact doing more.
It doesn't in my book. Imps are still the most effective strops I have ever used and they are lightning fast.
Boar works incredibly fast as well. Coincidentally, it is very fast but creates an enormous amount of heat during use. I just prefer the Imp for tactile feel - otherwise I would be using Boar.


I said heat the blade, not the strop!


You sure did!
Sorry bout that.
 
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I have several strops. I often use multiple strops in sequence when stropping. I start out on a DIY linen strop to clean the blade and then cotton and linen strops to get it ready for the leather. Then I start on a latigo strop with a heavy draw and then move on to strops with lighter draw. I will finish either on a fast bridle or horsehide strop. That sequence give me great stropping satisfaction. However, I could take any one of my fabric strops and any one of my leather strops and achieve a similar edge. I might have to adjust my strop tension, stropping speed and stropping pressure somewhat, but any good strop will get the job done. Even Tony Miller will tell you that his plain vanilla strops will work just as well as his premium heirloom strops, but I do like his premium strops.
 
In regards to the heating of the blade point - I am not of the opinion that heat does anything to the razor. The razor may warm from the stropping but it doesn't get anywhere near the temperature needed to affect steel.

Chris
 
Here is an advertisement in an old Journeyman barber publication for RW Sunasack strops with a short instruction for use.
"Lay your razor flat, strop slow and heavy. This will give you a velvet edge."
The Journeyman Barber

Not sure anyone actually strops slow but I thought it was interesting. The Sunasack strop I have does have a heavy draw.
 
Here is an advertisement in an old Journeyman barber publication for RW Sunasack strops with a short instruction for use.
"Lay your razor flat, strop slow and heavy. This will give you a velvet edge."
The Journeyman Barber

Not sure anyone actually strops slow but I thought it was interesting. The Sunasack strop I have does have a heavy draw.


I can't read anything from your link. It shows the book but it doesn't show anything for content.
Am I missing something?
 
I can't read anything from your link. It shows the book but it doesn't show anything for content.
Am I missing something?

Maybe a browser problem. Not uncommon in this day and age.

Could be a plug-in problem or a cache problem or a version problem. Modern technology.

Who knows but hope you can find a solution.

Chris
 
Not sure, what I do know is I greatly prefer heavier draw strops for wedges and kamisori. I think proper technique when stropping is where the biggest gains are made off the strop, followed by having a great linen component.
 
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