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Is a more aggressive razor better for a beginner?

For me my easiest razor to get a great shave is my slim adjustable cranked up to 8. I feel the reason this is so because it gives a lot of blade feel making it easier to find and keep the correct angle and also not to put too much pressure on it. Some of my other razors it's harder to feel the right angle and when I would nick myself I would never even feel it happen, I would just see the blood lol
 
I would suggest a mild razor to start with, as an aggressive razor leads to developing all sorts of bad habits that result in poor shaves. The worst of those habits is very high angle shaving, which scrapes your face something terrible -- for an example, take a look at NickShaves Muhle R41 video. Close shave, but burning and bleeding all over. This is NOT what you want..... It can also reduce blade life quite a bit by chipping the edge, and in a razor with a long clamping distance (less rigid blade) result in blade vibration that grossly irritates your skin. Mild razors won't shave very well at high angle as it's very difficult to get the edge properly in contact with the skin unless you use very heavy pressure -- a recipe for nicks and weepers.

With a mild razor, you are more or less forced to use the correct angle if you use minimal pressure, and this is a good thing -- ALL razors shave best within a very narrow range of angle, including straights. That angle is around 20 degrees at the blade/skin interface, no matter what blade or razor you are using. Handle angle on the razor will vary with the grind angle on the blade and the angle at which the razor actually holds the blade. When you get that figured out, an aggressive razor (more blade gap) may indeed work better for you, but you will bleed much less finding out how to get good shaves.

Weepers and nicks are user errors -- weepers result from too much pressure, usually in response to "drag" of the blade while cutting. Resist the temptation to push down, the edge doesn't need you to "help" with pressure, it's gonna cut or not either way, but will cut skin with pressure. Irritation is usually excessive pressure or too high (or low with extra pressure) blade angle -- you need only enough pressure to keep the blade from skipping over stubble, no more.

Don't mistake loss of PTFE coatings for a dull blade, they reduce the drag of the hair on the bevel, giving that "no blade in the razor" feel, but the blade is just as sharp when they are gone. It just gives much more sensation of drag, it's not dull. Just feels different, and you will get a good shave with little irritation.

That said, some blades are easier to use in a more aggressive razor (actually, more blade gap), for instance for me a Polsilver. Can't get a close shave with one unless I have that Fatboy opened up to 7 or 8, but I'm still shaving at shallow angle.
 
Yeah, start with a milder razor like the Weishi 9306 (re-branded in the U.S. under the Van der Hagen and Micro Touch One labels, though I recommend the former if you decide on this one). Alternatively, you can start with a Merkur 34c (I got mine off of Amazon for $27), which is a bit heavier and has a wider gap between the blade edge and comb. In fact, I now think I should have started with the Merkur 34c instead of spending money on the VDH-Weishis, but at the time I was simply at Target looking for less expensive razors to help reduce my grooming budget and didn't realize how great the Merkur 34c is for beginners and advanced wet shavers alike.

It boils down, really, to how sensitive your skin is and finding the best blade to use in your razor. Different blades will work better in different razors than others, so you'll want to get a sampler pack of blades that includes Astra Superior Platinum, Gillette Silver Blue, Feather Hi-New Stainless, PolSilver Super Iridium, and Bic Chrome Platinum.

If you do decide on the Van der Hagen handles, don't bother with the over-priced blades they come with—they're dull and almost universally disliked. I suspect those are re-branded Timor blades, which are also marketed as being ice-tempered. In my experience, the Merkur blade that comes with the 34c does well enough, but is similarly over-priced and you can get sharper blades ordering one of the blade brands out of Gillette's plant in St. Petersburg.
 
I think a mild razor is best to start with mainly because it minimizes cuts and weepers. I think a lot of beginners would just give up if they see a lot of blood those first few days or weeks.

I remember being kind of scared my first few shaves with a very mild van Der hagen razor. I don't think I would have continued has I started with an aggressive double edge.
 
I would suggest a mild razor to start with, as an aggressive razor leads to developing all sorts of bad habits that result in poor shaves. The worst of those habits is very high angle shaving, which scrapes your face something terrible -- for an example, take a look at NickShaves Muhle R41 video. Close shave, but burning and bleeding all over. This is NOT what you want..... It can also reduce blade life quite a bit by chipping the edge, and in a razor with a long clamping distance (less rigid blade) result in blade vibration that grossly irritates your skin. Mild razors won't shave very well at high angle as it's very difficult to get the edge properly in contact with the skin unless you use very heavy pressure -- a recipe for nicks and weepers.

With a mild razor, you are more or less forced to use the correct angle if you use minimal pressure, and this is a good thing -- ALL razors shave best within a very narrow range of angle, including straights. That angle is around 20 degrees at the blade/skin interface, no matter what blade or razor you are using. Handle angle on the razor will vary with the grind angle on the blade and the angle at which the razor actually holds the blade. When you get that figured out, an aggressive razor (more blade gap) may indeed work better for you, but you will bleed much less finding out how to get good shaves.

Weepers and nicks are user errors -- weepers result from too much pressure, usually in response to "drag" of the blade while cutting. Resist the temptation to push down, the edge doesn't need you to "help" with pressure, it's gonna cut or not either way, but will cut skin with pressure. Irritation is usually excessive pressure or too high (or low with extra pressure) blade angle -- you need only enough pressure to keep the blade from skipping over stubble, no more.

Don't mistake loss of PTFE coatings for a dull blade, they reduce the drag of the hair on the bevel, giving that "no blade in the razor" feel, but the blade is just as sharp when they are gone. It just gives much more sensation of drag, it's not dull. Just feels different, and you will get a good shave with little irritation.

That said, some blades are easier to use in a more aggressive razor (actually, more blade gap), for instance for me a Polsilver. Can't get a close shave with one unless I have that Fatboy opened up to 7 or 8, but I'm still shaving at shallow angle.
I guess it is one of those YMMV. For me I tend to get more nicks and weepers if my shave angle is too shallow. It's hard to tell what angle the blade is actually at when I shave but generally the handle is somewhere between 20 and 22 degrees. For me having more blade feel actually keeps me from applying more pressure.
 
the handle is somewhere between 20 and 22 degrees. For me having more blade feel actually keeps me from applying more pressure.
That is a very steep angle and is nearer about 60 degree blade angle. If you want more blade feel try a neutral angle where you be at maximum blade exposure and riding both cap and guard; so handle angle will be nerarer 45 degrees or a little more. Nicks and weepers are due to user error so concentrate on letting the blade do the work which should be at the correct angle with the minimum of pressure.
 
That is a very steep angle and is nearer about 60 degree blade angle. If you want more blade feel try a neutral angle where you be at maximum blade exposure and riding both cap and guard; so handle angle will be nerarer 45 degrees or a little more. Nicks and weepers are due to user error so concentrate on letting the blade do the work which should be at the correct angle with the minimum of pressure.
I think I explained my angle wrong. The angle I use is just a little more than the handle being halfway parallel which would be 90 degrees and straight down which I think would make it a little less than 45 degrees.
 
Mild, but with a some blade feel! - If it's too comfortable, they'll learn by applying pressure, which as we all know isn't the best way to learn. Better to get the hang of no added pressure to begin with, than to have to relearn a bad habit later on.

That's by $0.02 on the topic
 
I would say it depends.

My personal opinion is that very mild razors are like training wheels. I never used training wheels with my children and they all learned to ride a bike. I think they learned faster than if they had training wheels, but I fully realize I will never know for sure. The same with razors, BUT, like bikes, one needs some instruction as you go along.
 
Only you can determine what works for you. Generally, a milder razor is easier to use because it is more forgiving. However, if you have tough skin, that may not be the case. Also, the number of passes you need to get a good shave is an important factor.
 
Given that I gave myself a howling case of razor burn with a Schick injector when I started shaving, mild is the way to go if you are new to shaving or switching from cartridges. Cartridges require significant pressure, and that results in razor burn with a DE.

Adjustables are great, you can easily start mild and open them up as needed.

As for razor angle, blade and handle angle will vary between designs, some have the blade pretty flat and some are fairly sharply curved. What matters is the angle of the blade on your skin, you have to learn to feel when it's correct and position the handle accordingly. I find very shallow angle (riding the cap) with light pressure works best for me, with most razors. Only exception is, as I noted before, Polsilver SI blades. Have to open up the Fatboy for those, or I get a stubbly shave.

Experiment, the main thing it so use VERY light pressure no matter what razor angle you use. And good, slick lather. Ignore the whipped cream look, you need wet, slick lather. How much is on your face doesn't matter, it just has to be slick. I get excellent shaves with Williams and nearly invisible lather, ditto for lather so wet it drips off the razor as I shave. It's lubricant, not a buffer.
 
With a mild razor, you are more or less forced to use the correct angle if you use minimal pressure, and this is a good thing -- ALL razors shave best within a very narrow range of angle, including straights. That angle is around 20 degrees at the blade/skin interface, no matter what blade or razor you are using. Handle angle on the razor will vary with the grind angle on the blade and the angle at which the razor actually holds the blade. When you get that figured out, an aggressive razor (more blade gap) may indeed work better for you, but you will bleed much less finding out how to get good shaves.
Exactly. And for the same reasons, even when you have more practice, a sloppy mistake or slip of the hand when you are still half asleep or, ahem, suffering from the previous evening's libations can have a painful and bloody result with an aggressive razor but cause no trouble at all with a mild razor. I suspect that most of those who favor aggressive razors are not shaving early every morning.
 
"Aggressive" razors are not better, they are just different. The ultimate in "aggressive" razors is a straight razor -- it's not a sign of manliness to use an aggressive razor, they just work better for some people. They will also cut you if you have bad technique much worse than a mild razor. "safety razor" isn't an advertizing slogan, after all. A straight can cut your throat, or slice off a chunk of ear if carelessly handled. The worst I've ever done with a safety is a shallow slice when I moved the blade sideways on my first shave. Learned not to do that....

Comfort is King at my house, I could care less how "aggressive" the razor is as long as I get a nice, close shave without weepers or irritation!
 
Now that I think about it, if someone has never wet shaved before, a mild razor is definitely good advice. I think if someone has wetshaved with a cartridge and never used pressure, they could try an aggressive razor.
 

nemo

Lunatic Fringe
Staff member
Beginner = mild razor.

....take a look at NickShaves Muhle R41 video. Close shave, but burning and bleeding all over....

Ridiculous. I don't watch shaving videos (whew!), but if one doesn't have good enough technique to safely use a razor like the Mühle R41 why on earth would you post a video of it? Shows his n00bness I guess, the R41 is a shaving machine and you better use a steep angle.
 
You CAN shave with a steep angle with an aggressive razor, unlike with a mild razor. Whether one should or not is a different question, eh? I would personally use it like a straight -- very shallow angle, very light pressure, much care.
 
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