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Intermediate hones advice

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Personally I don't like combo stones. YMMV

If funds are a problem you could fill in with a few sheets of film for cheap or even 1000 grit W/D, 2000 grit W/D, 3 micron film.

Enthusiasts should still be enthusiastic about their stones, maybe more so.
800 grit to 9μ film would be a nice jump. Then on to the 3μ and then the 12k or 1μ film.

I like the Naniwa Superstone 8k, but the 3k doesn't really give me the warm fuzzies. It loads up pretty quick. Like @bluesman 7 I don't like combo stones. Anyway the film will fill the gap cheaply and you might even decide you don't need the stones after all. Or wait and see what pops up on BST. Once your gap is filled with film, there is no hurry in filling it with rocks. You might also consider a nice coticule for the midrange. It is a good gateway drug into naturals.
 
How did you breake in the dmt 8k? I have a narrow one. I did not like the result i got, but i guess mine was not properly broken in.
Looking under manification, even after a well used 1200 dmt the bevel looks perfect. It is really tempting to use these.
I used it for a few knives because the reports at the time said they needed it... But I don't know that it did anything, maybe it did. DMT claims they are broken in when sold.
 
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Shapton HR 4k and 8k are also nice stones. My recommendation would be to get two good midrange stones and direct the rest of your budget to finishing stones.

4k is a great place to start when setting bevels on already shave-ready razors.
 
Thinking of either of the following progressions:

Option 1
- Naniwa 800
- Naniwa Combi 3k/8k
- Naniwa SS 12k

Option 2
- Naniwa Pro 1k (use the 800 for kitchen knives only)
- Naniwa Hayabusa 4k
- Naniwa Fuji 8k
- Naniwa SS 12k

Option 1 would be the more economical choice as I would have to buy only the Combi 3k/8k.

Option 2 seems to be recommended here, but more costly, unless I go straight from the 800 to the Hayabusa 4k.

Does it really matter which option I go with if I finish on the Naniwa SS 12k on either setup?
You get to the same place regardless of what you chose, option 2 is just a better experience.
A different option is to get the Naniwa Pro 3k, and spend a little more time on the 12k you have. You can always add an 8k stone later. The 3k Pro stone is a fantastic stone. If you like the 800, you will like the 3k even more. It might be a big jump to the 12. I have not tried it. The 3k pro cuts almost as fast as the 800 and gives a little polish. It is grate for knifes to.
Burrfection.com is selling a smaller version of the 3k and 800 as a set for less then the price of a full sized 3k.
 
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My understanding is that they are more or less the same as the super stones. Maybe they did something to the resin binder, or something.
Allot of people like these stones, especially the super stones. I only have the 8k and the 12. They give good result, but if feedback (feels like rubber) and loading will bother you, i would get something else.
I have a full set of Naniwa Gouken stones 1k, 4k and 8k. The 4k and the 8k is really nice to use. I think they really shine when used as a system. The 4k is relatively soft, but somehow the 8k Fuji compliments the 4k really well. To me it seems like the 8k Fuji gives a better edge then the 8k super stone. There is a reason i have never touched my super stones after i got these.
The super stones are also quite thin. The stones i have seem to warp or bend a little. I ended up gluing my 8k to a piece of slate. They will stabilize if allowed to soak a little.
The Gouken stones are more stable and thicker. You can get the kagayaki in 20 mm thickness to, but then they are more expensive.
I have the 20 mm in a couple of stones. I’ve had no issue with warping of the 20mm so far. Most of my 10 mm stones have warped.
 
The Hayabua and Fuji are more refined stones than the Nani 3k & 8k.
Whether or not you can realize the advantages are, relies on skills and style. They hone differently, they're more efficient, less prone to cracking and warping, the feedback is different.

Looking at this from a numerical POV - six of one, half dozen of another maybe. Just maybe though.

But when factoring in skills, styles, etc - maybe the better stones will allow further advancement of edges refinement. To me, the Falcon and Fuji are more enjoyable to hone on. The Fuji is a top-flight 8k and outside of Jyunpaku it's hard to think there's a better set up for the any 12k. I put a lot of value on increased enjoyment.

Basically, while it might matter what someone uses for midrange, they might not notice unless they're skilled and able to do many side-by-side comparisons with multiple stones, blades, honing progressions, etc .The 12k Nani is a serviceable finisher but I've found that reducing the amount of work needed to finish on it will increase smoothness and cutting efficacy.

My personal overview of honing is that an edge is always a sum of its parts.
For example - each stone contains abrasive particles of its specified 'grit', and it also contains finer particles and bigger particles. JIS standards spec how much of what is allowable but we all know that not ever stone complies with spec. Finer particles don't matter but the larger ones can matter a lot.

So when I have a stone that is 'more true' to it namesake, with a better PSD, I have fewer incidences of rogue scratches for the next level. Someone might argue that it doesn't matter. And for some that might be true. Everyone's needs are different.
But in my own honing comparison tests, which - at this point - I would say have been extensive and thorough - I find that the Falcon and Fuji allow me to do a better job. I've also found that adding in-between grits helps the progression eliminate the incidences of rogue scratches. Adding a 5k inbetween 3k and 8k has proven to be beneficial. The more incremental the jumps, I see less work needed on any one particular stone, and a more efficient path.

Is all of that necessary? Well, for me, honing isn't necessary, shaving isn't necessary, most of all of this isn't really all that necessary. So any of this is, for me, mostly, a matter of edified choices based on personal experience; the goal is personal satisfaction with my efforts and investments. Everyone is going to think/feel different here.

At the end of the day, the only one that can tell anyone what path or stone choice is best is the person asking the question. The only way to know for sure is test what is possible, compare and then decide. And sometimes, what is 'better' might not be worth the bother to any particular person.

The main reason I'd avoid the Nani combo is because of the intermittent warping issues surrounding the product line. Otherwise I would have no issue using it myself if I was going to only be doing a minor bit of honing. Second reason is that they are too soft for me. I prefer harder stones.

If I was considering heavy use, I'd get separate stones - wear on the 3k will out pace that on the 8k by a long shot.

If I was considering Nani stones for heavy/constant/continual use, I'd go with Pro/Chosera. The Arata series I've tested were not 100% the same as Chosera. I would go with the Pro series.

I sold my Falcon and Fuji because I wasn't using them. Those stones being better in that position didn't matter much for my honing progressions. I use Jnats most of the time and don't usually need synths above bevel-set really.

When I do go with synths - I do a 1.5k, 5k progression and when I'm focused I add the 2k in between. I have a 4k, 6k, and 10k stones that see use sometimes.
I don't often use an 8k or 12k . For the 8k, I prefer the Snow White because of the stellar feedback. I use a Shap Pro 8k most of the time because it's there and usually out on the counter. Typically, I rely on synths for the ground work and Nagura progressions to cover the post bevel-set through midrange work. So it's a different thing entirely.

So, will it matter what you use in the middle? Only you will be able to know for sure whether or not one stone or another is better for you or not. Chances are, any of the above will work for you, and you will shave well if you learn them.
Pick, use, learn, advance, repeat.
It's impossible to make comparisons without having a solid foundation.
 
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