Instructions for New SR Shavers

[Herrenberg]

When I toyed around with the Pasted Balsa a couple of months back, I was actually able to find a solid piece of balsa (no gluing of glass, plexi, whatever). Just lapped it, pasted it and went to town.

Had you stuck with it longer, you might have found out that balsa loves to warp under the least duress. I think that's the point of the substrate.

 

[Mouette]

Had you stuck with it longer, you might have found out that balsa loves to warp under the least duress. I think that's the point of the substrate.

Which is probably why all those balsawood flying model aeroplanes I made as a kid never actually flew. By the time I put tissue paper and dope on them, they never seemed to be the right shape.

Really showing my age here!

 

[Titleist]

Had you stuck with it longer, you might have found out that balsa loves to warp under the least duress. I think that's the point of the substrate.

The balsa block that I was using and referring to was a good 1" thick, hardly something that would warp. The exact dimensions were 1" X 2" X 12" and is pictured below. Once lapped and the paste applied and wiped in I was all set. The block fit nicely in hand and as you can see below, required no gluing of anything.

My use was merely experimental to see what all the "hub bub" was about. I have gone back to JNAT finishers and no longer use the balsa method. The edges that I can produce from JNAT are far superior for my liking. But hey, to each his own.

 

[Slash McCoy]

The part about the substrate is confusing. The substrate is required to be flat and stiff, to prevent the balsa from warping, correct? The instructions suggest using acrylic, tile, pvc foam, or balsa. Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but that doesn't make any sense to me. Why would I use balsa as a substrate for balsa?

I attempted to cut some tile with an angle grinder and a masonry blade and I was only able to make one clean cut. All my other cuts cause the tile to chip and ruined the good side.

I'm considering getting some ready cut acrylic, but the shipping is annoying expensive. Maybe I'll pay a visit to the local flooring store to see if they have any scraps.

Absolute flatness of the base is not required, since you will lap the balsa after gluing. Nice, but not required. What you DO need is something that does not flex or warp, doesn't break, and is thick enough to raise the balsa's surface high enough that the fingertips of your hand holding it are not sticking up high enough for the razor to slice or nick. I prefer at least 1" and lately I am migrating more to 1-1/2" thick. TAP Plastics is my source. Compared to a high end stone, TAP's acrylic is dirt cheap, and their product is high quality. Remember, it lasts forever. You can't break it. It is impervious to moisture. Only very high temperatures can cause it the slightest harm. Buy once, use for a lifetime.

Any acrylic over 1/4" is stiff enough, just not necessarily thick enough to save your fingers and give you a good grip. And so you CAN glue it to a lesser substance, using a flexible glue like gorilla glue, and the acrylic and the flexible glue should defeat small amounts of warpage in the lesser substance, speaking particularly about wood. Tile is good in such a sandwich, too. Like I said, you lap the balsa last, and so flatness of the balsa is created by the lapping and not by the flatness of the underlying.

You can also solvent weld two or more layers into one thick monolithic block with something like MEK, Methyl Ethyl Ketone. NOT MEKP, but MEK. Most hardware stores should have it. It is both a solvent and a catalyst for polyester resin. Put the perfectly clean, flat, and smooth surfaces together. With a syringe, introduce the MEK to the joint and let the capillary action suck it right in. Let it stand a few hours. A little weight, well distributed, is all the clamping required. So if you can locally source say 1/4" acrylic, or whatever other common or trade name you find it by in your area, you can lay up as thick a plate as you want.

 

[Slash McCoy]

The balsa block that I was using and referring to was a good 1" thick, hardly something that would warp. The exact dimensions were 1" X 2" X 12" and is pictured below. Once lapped and the paste applied and wiped in I was all set. The block fit nicely in hand and as you can see below, required no gluing of anything.

My use was merely experimental to see what all the "hub bub" was about. I have gone back to JNAT finishers and no longer use the balsa method. The edges that I can produce from JNAT are far superior for my liking. But hey, to each his own.

View attachment 1456563

The thicker the balsa, the more it will swell or warp. Thinner, on a hard base, is better. Thinner only flexes more, if unsupported.

 

[Titleist]

The thicker the balsa, the more it will swell or warp. Thinner, on a hard base, is better. Thinner only flexes more, if unsupported.

You are talking about a TON of humidity here. It's not like I left that balsa block outside in the rain forest or something. Can you substantiate your claim with any data to back up your position never having used a full block of balsa yourself? The balsa block that I referenced and used is at least 1" thick! How much humidity are we really talking about here?

 

[rbscebu]

You are talking about a TON of humidity here. It's not like I left that balsa block outside in the rain forest or something. Can you substantiate your claim with any data to back up your position never having used a full block of balsa yourself? The balsa block that I referenced and used is at least 1" thick! How much humidity are we really talking about here?

I can but it was only 12mm thick balsa glued to a tile composite substrate and the environment was in Cebu City, not a rainforest but a reasonably humid environment, even though air-conditioned.

I first lapped flat on 280 grit sandpaper in the morning using a pencil grid to check. Lapped again in the afternoon and found the balsa had warped. I kept this up for a few more days and observed the same until my balsa got down to about 8mm thick. The warping by then was hardly even noticeable with the pencil grid.

Of course, it may have been the quality of the balsa. I am not willing to take that risk. Gluing balsa to a substrate takes only a couple of minutes and a 5mm or 6mm thick balsa strop can last you decades of regular use.

If your are happy using just thick solid balsa, by all means continue doing so. I am only an engineer who aims for as close to perfection that I can reasonably achieve.

 

[Titleist]

I can but it was only 12mm thick balsa glued to a tile composite substrate and the environment was in Cebu City, not a rainforest but a reasonably humid environment, even though air-conditioned.

I first lapped flat on 280 grit sandpaper in the morning using a pencil grid to check. Lapped again in the afternoon and found the balsa had warped. I kept this up for a few more days and observed the same until my balsa got down to about 8mm thick. The warping by then was hardly even noticeable with the pencil grid.

Of course, it may have been the quality of the balsa. I am not willing to take that risk. Gluing balsa to a substrate takes only a couple of minutes and a 5mm or 6mm thick balsa strop can last you decades of regular use.

If your are happy using just thick solid balsa, by all means continue doing so. I am only an engineer who aims for as close to perfection that I can reasonably achieve.

As you know, 1" is equal to 25.4 mm. So again, you would have to store a 25.4mm chunk of balsa in an extremely humid environment outside for days to get it to warp.

I live in Florida in HVAC conditioned comfort where the balsa strops were stored at 52% humidity. So what is this really about here? Is it really because I didn't construct my personal strops to someone else's "specifications" or, because I personally don't find the useful for me?

Let's be realistic here. I'm not asking you chaps to hone my edges nor are you asking me to hone yours. Be mindful of the attempt to allow perfection to get into the way of "good enough".

Cheers!

 

[rbscebu]

As you know, 1" is equal to 25.4 mm. So again, you would have to store a 25.4mm chunk of balsa in an extremely humid environment outside for days to get it to warp.

I live in Florida in HVAC conditioned comfort where the balsa strops were stored at 52% humidity. So what is this really about here? Is it really because I didn't construct my personal strops to someone else's "specifications" or, because I personally don't find the useful for me?

Let's be realistic here. I'm not asking you chaps to hone my edges nor are you asking me to hone yours. Be mindful of the attempt to allow perfection to get into the way of "good enough".

Cheers!

I'm glad that you have found what is good enough for you. That is the main thing. For others, your "good enough" may not be good enough for them.

Remember that the instructions are for those new to SR shaving. Things are probably far different for you with your wealth of experience. Enjoy your shaves.

BTW, it is not the humidity that warps timber. It is the change in humidity (and temperature to a much lesser extent) that warps timber.

 

[Slash McCoy]

You are talking about a TON of humidity here. It's not like I left that balsa block outside in the rain forest or something. Can you substantiate your claim with any data to back up your position never having used a full block of balsa yourself? The balsa block that I referenced and used is at least 1" thick! How much humidity are we really talking about here?

The thicker it is, the more total swelling that a percentage of dimensional change will amount to. And when I started, I DID use solid balsa, and found it wanting. I am in New Orleans. Humidity in your bathroom is probably similar. Look, if you want to use a solid block of balsa, go ahead. I am not going to argue. I said my piece trying to help. A piece of balsa 4x as thick can expand 4x as much by swelling the same percentage. No I haven't bothered to gather data on this, nor have I sought to back up with data my assertion that the sky is blue except when it isn't, or that water at sea level boils at 212° and that temperature is too hot to stick your hand in for more than a fraction of a second. If I tell you the weather is fine, feel free to bring your umbrella if you insist.

Do it your way, I don't care. I'm just telling you it isn't the optimal way even if it does work after a fashion.

 

[Slash McCoy]

As you know, 1" is equal to 25.4 mm. So again, you would have to store a 25.4mm chunk of balsa in an extremely humid environment outside for days to get it to warp.

I live in Florida in HVAC conditioned comfort where the balsa strops were stored at 52% humidity. So what is this really about here? Is it really because I didn't construct my personal strops to someone else's "specifications" or, because I personally don't find the useful for me?

Let's be realistic here. I'm not asking you chaps to hone my edges nor are you asking me to hone yours. Be mindful of the attempt to allow perfection to get into the way of "good enough".

Cheers!

Well, that does bring up the question. Which is better, perfection, or good enough?

I can never be perfect, but when I quit striving for perfection, I quickly find myself increasingly disillusioned with my results.

 

[Titleist]

The thicker it is, the more total swelling that a percentage of dimensional change will amount to. And when I started, I DID use solid balsa, and found it wanting. I am in New Orleans. Humidity in your bathroom is probably similar. Look, if you want to use a solid block of balsa, go ahead. I am not going to argue. I said my piece trying to help. A piece of balsa 4x as thick can expand 4x as much by swelling the same percentage. No I haven't bothered to gather data on this, nor have I sought to back up with data my assertion that the sky is blue except when it isn't, or that water at sea level boils at 212° and that temperature is too hot to stick your hand in for more than a fraction of a second. If I tell you the weather is fine, feel free to bring your umbrella if you insist.

Do it your way, I don't care. I'm just telling you it isn't the optimal way even if it does work after a fashion.

Thanks for your input based on your experience. I respect your position. I'll pass on the diamond pasted strop and the "Method". I've been very satisfied with my edges off of JNAT for a decade even after trying something new (to me).

That's the great thing about this community. We offer several different approaches to the same end. And that is the removal of whiskers in the most expedient and comfortable ways.

To each His own.

 

[Titleist]

Well, that does bring up the question. Which is better, perfection, or good enough?

I can never be perfect, but when I quit striving for perfection, I quickly find myself increasingly disillusioned with my results.

My friend, never once have I ever quit striving for perfection. I play golf, drink Bourbon and hone razors

All I stated was that one should never let "perfection" or perhaps the pursuit of the same, to ever get in the way of "good enough".