Let's say I take the measurements of a Feather FHS-10 blade and subtract from it the length of an injector blade, then I 3D print an object with those dimensions and set it down on a flat surface and put an injector blade right next to it and stick some strong tape tape to them to stick them together, then I turn them over and tape the other side, and perhaps even wrap more layers of tape around just to make sure it's sturdy. Would that fit in say, an Auto Strop VC1? It's kind of a crazy idea, but I don't see why it wouldn't work, as long as I get the measurements right and everything.
Injector blades in Auto Strop razors?
- Thread starter Itazuramono
- Start date
Flintstone65
Imagining solutions for imaginary problems
I say go for it -- of course, it's easy for me to say! 
Even if it worked, why would you do that? What would be the advantage over your favorite DE or injector razor? Would it be worth the work and the hassle? If it did work with benefit, why aren't other bright guys who shave already doing it?
More questions than answers.
More questions than answers.
Because it's there!
Rather than the 3D printing (don't gots one), I personally would use my bench sander to remove an injector-width of steel from a used FHS-10 blade and then do the taping, probably with a piece of a DE overlapping the joint to add stiffness.
I may have done something similar with a Christy or a Keen Kutter proprietary blade SE. No scars to remember it by, at any rate.
- Thread starter
- #5
Well, I don't have any injector razors... yet, but the VC1 is my favorite razor and I thought it would be cool to try different types of blades in it since the only ones I can really use are Gem and Feather and the Feathers feel way too harsh.
Kai makes a AutoStrop compatible blade, but they are hard to find, with boutique pricing. Vintage AutoStrop blades are sometimes usable.
Check out:
Check out:
- Thread starter
- #7
Would these be the blades you're referring to?
KAI / REPLACEMENT BLADE SET (50 SHEETS SET) / BEST0.25 / MADE IN JAPAN | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/183776337301?hash=item2ac9ec5d95:g:iGUAAOSwboFeVdja
Also, that link you posted doesn't seem to work.
That is it. I have yet to buy any.
Here is the Kai spec sheet for 'special blades':
www DOT kai-group.com/global/en/biz/industrialblades_special DOT html
The bay listing says 0.25mm thick.
Based on Kai's specs, current 'BEST' production should be carbon steel (better stropping?) and 0.15 thick. They also show a 0.25 thick carbon blade without the BEST punch, which may be closer in stiffness to original AutoStrops. And Gem profiled blades at 0.23 thick.
My new digital caliper puts Gems and Feathers at 0.25 and a VALET punched AutoStrop blade at 0.27.
Ron R
I survived a lathey foreman
Not sure why you would go to that extreme when it is safer and easier to use a De splined Gem SS PTFE blade modified to fit a Valet auto-strop C1 model. That is all I use in my C1 model and works very good. There is a video on you tube on how to do this.
I make sure to use electric tape to give the blade a little rigidity when sniping and keeps the sniped piece in place and easy to find. Takes a few minutes to do per blade.
Have some great shaves!
- Thread starter
- #10
Yeah, I use despined Gem blades and they work really good, but I'd just like to try something different.
R
romsitsa
This would be too thick, or won't hold the blade in place.
You could convert a later model with a thin strip of brass (acting as a stop) soldered into the blade tray, so it would accept (only) injector blades.
So, how do these shave compared to other single edge razors like my HFT and Clog Pruf; or a Schick Injector?
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