...and in addition to above, I know that you can decrease the aggression of the respective slurry by diluting the mud. Thanks again.
Increased frequency is giving excellent results with my black ark
- Thread starter kohalajohn
- Start date
Ugh....I just watched another video and realize that the Tomos can come in different hardness/softness levels. And I am sorry, I think my posts may be better placed elsewhere. I apologize to the OP. To mods...if you think this should be moved...please do. thanks.
John:
I don't know what you are using as a progression now but looking at the pic you posted I would concur that the edge needs more work in the low to mid-range and then pre-finished to eliminate the visible striations before moving to your Ark.
Since we who use them know that the Blk. Arks are slow finishers, we should not ask them to do any of the mid to high range work before finishing.
I always take my edges to 10>12K range before finishing on the Blk. Arks that I use, or maybe I jump from a really high-quality Suita J-Nat. then to the finishing Ark. The goal is to progress to a quality shave ready edge before transitioning to your Ark.
Since you are thinking about Shapton synthetics I will share a progression I often use. Shapton GS 1K HR, 4K HR, 8K HR,
10K HR or Naniwa 12K SS then finish on one of my Blk. Arks. You could certainly sub the GS 4K & 8K HR'S for the HC'S, I know Steve likes the HC's a bit better I can't say as I have not honed on them.
Of course, there are other ways to get there but a solid synth. progression producing an edge that's truly shave ready is a great way to then finish to a stunningly great Ark edge.
Frank
I finish my arks at #600 then very lightly touch up my 1830 edc(one of 4 I keep on me) pocket knife very lightly and I don't feel like mine is slow at all. With medium torque I can have an edge smoking sharp in about 35 laps. With one finished at #1000 and heavily burnished it takes 3x that many laps and I can't tell a single bit of difference in the edge as long as I do a solid job stropping with a light touch.
Let me see if I got these principles correct:
1) Use a diamond plate, like the Atoma 400, if you want to use the grit off the JNAT stone itself.
Yes.
2) Use Nagura if you want to use the grit off the Nagura slurry stone, and those grits will vary depending on the stone.
Yes, but. If you want to use the grit off the nagura (and the base stone), a slurry cocktail. The slurry will vary depending on the nagura, layer, type, quality and the base stone.
3) Use the Tomo Nagura if you want a very high grit, but not from the finishing stone, but from the Tomo Nagura. So it would represent the highest grit choice, without an inordinate amount of actual finishing stone degradation here.
No. it will be a combination of nagura and base stone, again results vary depending on the above. Generally, tomo are harder than Mikawa nagura.
Diamond slurry can finish finer than Mikawa or Tome slurry, depending on the base stone.
Grit size by itself is not an indicator of performance. For example, Hard Ark Black and Translucent have much larger grit size than synthetics but can provide a much finer finish.
So, it would represent the highest grit choice, without an inordinate amount of actual finishing stone degradation here.
Not sure what you mean. Even with diamond slurry you are removing microns of stone, multiple lifetimes of honing.
Nagura slurry and really all slurry are or should be, a synergy of grit. There are no hard fast rules, because both the Nagura and base stone are natural and exact composition are unknown. YMWV
1) Use a diamond plate, like the Atoma 400, if you want to use the grit off the JNAT stone itself.
Yes.
2) Use Nagura if you want to use the grit off the Nagura slurry stone, and those grits will vary depending on the stone.
Yes, but. If you want to use the grit off the nagura (and the base stone), a slurry cocktail. The slurry will vary depending on the nagura, layer, type, quality and the base stone.
3) Use the Tomo Nagura if you want a very high grit, but not from the finishing stone, but from the Tomo Nagura. So it would represent the highest grit choice, without an inordinate amount of actual finishing stone degradation here.
No. it will be a combination of nagura and base stone, again results vary depending on the above. Generally, tomo are harder than Mikawa nagura.
Diamond slurry can finish finer than Mikawa or Tome slurry, depending on the base stone.
Grit size by itself is not an indicator of performance. For example, Hard Ark Black and Translucent have much larger grit size than synthetics but can provide a much finer finish.
So, it would represent the highest grit choice, without an inordinate amount of actual finishing stone degradation here.
Not sure what you mean. Even with diamond slurry you are removing microns of stone, multiple lifetimes of honing.
Nagura slurry and really all slurry are or should be, a synergy of grit. There are no hard fast rules, because both the Nagura and base stone are natural and exact composition are unknown. YMWV
