In search of a unicorn (razor and blade recommendations)

[The Seasonal Shaver]

I need help finding the right razor for my beard and face.

Shaving with a safety razor is new to me, but I'm slowly getting the hang of it. Let's remove technique and how often I shave from the equation and assume I basically know what I'm doing for the purpose of this conversation.

The situation:

I shave once a week (don't ask - it works for me). I have a tricky beard, it's thick, coarse, and grows in all sorts of directions. I can grow a big thick beard in a matter of weeks. I'm guessing this has something to do with my Italian and Jewish ancestry.

Under that burly beard, I have sensitive skin. Ingrown hairs are common (even when I don't shave) and my chin area and mustache are extra thick. A recent shave with an Alpha Outlaw Mild with a Personna Platinum produced less than ideal results (this is most likely because of a hurried shave with poor technique).

I'm seeking that "unicorn" razor and blade combo. A razor that can handle a thick beard, but not destroy my skin. I understand that if I only shave once a week, razor burn will likely be a part of that, but I'm sure some razors/blades will be better than the others. I think I have a decent grasp of what is considered a mild blade versus a sharp blade. I've read a mild blade in a more aggressive razor could work well, I of course have also seen that a sharp blade in mild razor might be best. I know that blades might be the most important part of this equation. That said, I want to know if I'm even on the right path with the razors I've tried or plan to use.

Razors I've used:

Rockwell 6C - plate 4 ("weekly" driver).
Alpha Outlaw Mild (not exactly mild in my opinion)

Razors I will have the opportunity to try (but haven't yet):

Razorock GC .68 SB
Razorock GC .84 SB
Parker Variant

Razors I have researched but do not own or have access to:

Timeless .68 OC
Karve CB - C plate?
Rex Envoy
Parker Semi-Slant
Henson AL-13

Razors I have not researched (but probably should):
Anything vintage

I have pondered whether or not I'm barking up the wrong tree with closed comb plates. Perhaps I should have gone straight to open comb?

I do not plan to keep an arsenal of razors, I'd like to find one or two that work great for me. I'm more interested in finding a good razor and spending my money on different soaps and aftershaves. I feel like much of the advice on this forum is steered towards those folks who shave every day. This razor would not be a daily driver, but rather a "weekly" driver.

So, I'm seeking the advice of you lumberjacks out there who have a burly beard and gentle skin. I look forward to the discussion, thanks in advance!

 

[Blackland Razors]

Blade choice is very personal and with a nearly endless number of possibilities so I recommend removing that from your consideration for now and focusing on the razor just for practicality. Otherwise you'll have a ton of variables which makes it really tough to reach a conclusion. Once you have a razor you like you can dial it in by trying a few blades.

Regarding your sensitivity, the more you shave the more your skin adapts and the less sensitive it usually becomes. Taking it up to even just two days might help if you're open to that. The issue you'll run into with a weekly shave is that a more aggressive razor will be needed to hack through all that growth, but you don't really want that aggressive razor on your skin. Cutting the length of your beard in half by shaving twice as much would help in this area, too. This would open up a lot more razor options. Additionally, a week of growth is right at that length where the beard begins to curl and irritate the skin for many men (the case for me). So your skin could be becoming irritated by the whiskers and then you run a blade over that and it's not a great combo for irritation. Of course this is entirely up to you and your post didn't mention any willingness to chance the frequency so I'm out of line here, but it's something to consider.

Ignoring my suggestion above, I think you're one of the very rare people who would thrive with a dual comb razor (open comb on one side and safety bar on the other). OC is ideal for getting through thick growth without clogging, but I worry that your sensitive skin may not love the comb teeth. So in this arrangement you'd use the OC side to get rid of the excess on your first pass and then you'd use the SB side to remove the short stubble and get your final close shave. The bummer is that dual comb razors are uncommon. Hopefully someone will chime in with available options.

If you can't find a dual comb razor, you might consider looking at the Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements DOC. This razor is a mild open comb razor. So the OC will help get through that week of growth without clogging, but it's mild enough that your sensitive skin would appreciate it on passes 2+.

 

[Chad3]

My first thought is game changer 84 JAWS. Even better thought is add that to the GC SB and you’ll have what I think is a great combo that would equal the DC recommendations above. Just another suggestion.

 

[Hannah's Dad]

You said nothing about your preferences for blade feel; so if you don’t mind a bit of that, and you can keep your technique steady, I suspect either the Blackbird SB or the Wolfman WR2 1.55 SB with a Feather blade and a very steep angle would have you dancing the Unicorn dance.

 

[Gatts]

I would agree with Hannah's dad Blackbird killed my rad (razor for it's price point is amazing)....plus it helps I already have a wolfman wr1 and wr2 already . I was scared the Blackbird would be too aggressive for head shaving but right blade it's super smooth.

 

[Noodles]

Definitely higher gap Wolfman Is a good choice. For vintage, Fatboy or Slim on 7-9 has a large gap, but gentle on the skin. I’ve found that sharper, efficient blades are best with coarse hair/sensitive skin.

 

[JackJ]

I only wish I had the patience to wait a week between shaves--these days I'm just too eager to try just another razor and blade and brush and soap, so I'm missing out on the experience of hacking through serious stubble.

That said, Shane's advice above on a dual comb option sounds like a really good option. I expect to receive the new dual comb Razorock Lupo tomorrow and can't wait to give it a try. But since I won't be removing anything more than 48hrs growth, my experience with it may have little relevance for you.

 

[Fred D]

I need help finding the right razor for my beard and face.

Shaving with a safety razor is new to me, but I'm slowly getting the hang of it. Let's remove technique and how often I shave from the equation and assume I basically know what I'm doing for the purpose of this conversation.

The situation:

I shave once a week (don't ask - it works for me). I have a tricky beard, it's thick, coarse, and grows in all sorts of directions. I can grow a big thick beard in a matter of weeks. I'm guessing this has something to do with my Italian and Jewish ancestry.

Under that burly beard, I have sensitive skin. Ingrown hairs are common (even when I don't shave) and my chin area and mustache are extra thick. A recent shave with an Alpha Outlaw Mild with a Personna Platinum produced less than ideal results (this is most likely because of a hurried shave with poor technique).

I'm seeking that "unicorn" razor and blade combo. A razor that can handle a thick beard, but not destroy my skin. I understand that if I only shave once a week, razor burn will likely be a part of that, but I'm sure some razors/blades will be better than the others. I think I have a decent grasp of what is considered a mild blade versus a sharp blade. I've read a mild blade in a more aggressive razor could work well, I of course have also seen that a sharp blade in mild razor might be best. I know that blades might be the most important part of this equation. That said, I want to know if I'm even on the right path with the razors I've tried or plan to use.

Razors I've used:

Rockwell 6C - plate 4 ("weekly" driver).
Alpha Outlaw Mild (not exactly mild in my opinion)

Razors I will have the opportunity to try (but haven't yet):

Razorock GC .68 SB
Razorock GC .84 SB
Parker Variant

Razors I have researched but do not own or have access to:

Timeless .68 OC
Karve CB - C plate?
Rex Envoy
Parker Semi-Slant
Henson AL-13

Razors I have not researched (but probably should):
Anything vintage

I have pondered whether or not I'm barking up the wrong tree with closed comb plates. Perhaps I should have gone straight to open comb?

I do not plan to keep an arsenal of razors, I'd like to find one or two that work great for me. I'm more interested in finding a good razor and spending my money on different soaps and aftershaves. I feel like much of the advice on this forum is steered towards those folks who shave every day. This razor would not be a daily driver, but rather a "weekly" driver.

So, I'm seeking the advice of you lumberjacks out there who have a burly beard and gentle skin. I look forward to the discussion, thanks in advance!

For once a week shaving you might like the Fatip Open Comb with a Gillette silver blue blade.

Another Fatip that many people also like is the Lo Storto open comb slant.
I find both of these razors to be very smooth, comfortabke, and very efficient. The Gillette Silver Blue blade pairs nicely with these razors for me.

 

[Kyle89]

Grab a few razors and a few sample packs and experiment. That's what I did. What you don't prefer, you can always revisit later to see if your taste has changed, or sell the rest. Make it fun and interesting.

 

[Ivo4u2]

Ikon has a dual comb
Yaqi has a dual comb
Yaqi sloc/doc Mellon might be tempting too

Something badly available and very mild but difficult to clogg a broman I can shave armpits etc with it. And it shave a lot like a cartridge.

I would give the Parker a go on 0-2 it is heavy but lots of control carefully opening it up.

Try razors with something middle of the road dependable like a Gillette silver blue. If you find your razor tune up and down with blades choice.

Make sure you do a very good prep softening your beard. Use stuff like stirling or paa pre shave soap and a hot towel on top for 5min if needed longer before applying your actual soap.
Trying just wtg and xtg if possible.

 

[Medivh]

Asking for razors and blades recommendations is simple, but finding the ''unicorn'' combo is very hard and not many have found their best combo without looking for anything else.

My beard is and skin and similar to yours and for me the vintage GEM Micromatic open comb or MMOC and Micromatic clog pruf or MMCP razors work great. I suggest you to grab one or both of these razors and a GEM Personna PTFE blades, which are the only good blades for these razors and give them a try. The MMOC might be too much for an every day shaver, but the clog pruf might fit into that category nice and easy. Both razors are very inexpensive in decent/good condition, since there isn't that much of an interest and are also very easy to find.

From the DE world I can recommend you getting Fatip Grande OC. It's inexpensive, reliable and delivers great shaves.

As for DE blades, I recommend you try Nacet and Perma-Sharp. Both are great and also inexpensive and I rarely see people complaining about them.

You can also get a straight razor, but learning how to shave with it it's going to be the least of your concerns and you also have to learn how to hone it at some point, and that will require lots of practice and of course - expensive set of good stones.

Of course, there are much expensive and ''maybe better'' options out there, but since you're still learning and new to this game, it's unwise to go for anything above 100$. The chances of throwing your money out of the window are very high, so start with some proven and more common razors before jumping into the deep end where only a handful of people venture and the results are inconsistent and more of a bragging rights thing than anything else.

 

[molon_labe]

Depending on your budget, I would recommend you first try the Razorock Game Changer .84 OC. With your beard type and only shaving once per week, I think you would benefit from an OC vs SB. If the .84 seems to be too much, give the .68 OC a try. It will not get you quite as close as the .84 but if you're only shaving once a week I'm not sure how much that matters to you.

If you have a bit higher budget, you might want to consider one of the Timeless OC razors. I just recently posted a comparison between the Ti and SS and a few difference blade gaps. Sounds like we have very similar beard and skin, might be worth you taking a read of my thoughts on the variations.

As far as blades, my personal experience is that blades are far more YMMV than even razors are. I have pretty much settled on Astra SP in all razors. Sharpness, longevity, and price point have made them my go to.

 

[Hannah's Dad]

Asking for razors and blades recommendations is simple, but finding the ''unicorn'' combo is very hard and not many have found their best combo without looking for anything else.

My beard is and skin and similar to yours and for me the vintage GEM Micromatic open comb or MMOC and Micromatic clog pruf or MMCP razors work great. I suggest you to grab one or both of these razors and a GEM Personna PTFE blades, which are the only good blades for these razors and give them a try. The MMOC might be too much for an every day shaver, but the clog pruf might fit into that category nice and easy. Both razors are very inexpensive in decent/good condition, since there isn't that much of an interest and are also very easy to find.

From the DE world I can recommend you getting Fatip Grande OC. It's inexpensive, reliable and delivers great shaves.

As for DE blades, I recommend you try Nacet and Perma-Sharp. Both are great and also inexpensive and I rarely see people complaining about them.

You can also get a straight razor, but learning how to shave with it it's going to be the least of your concerns and you also have to learn how to hone it at some point, and that will require lots of practice and of course - expensive set of good stones.

Of course, there are much expensive and ''maybe better'' options out there, but since you're still learning and new to this game, it's unwise to go for anything above 100$. The chances of throwing your money out of the window are very high, so start with some proven and more common razors before jumping into the deep end where only a handful of people venture and the results are inconsistent and more of a bragging rights thing than anything else.

I have found that the higher-priced razors are actually quite easy to re-sell (often for more than was paid) and thus a great way to ‘rent’ and ‘experiment’ with the high-end razors. Nobody is going to lose money when buying a Timeless, Blackland, Wolfman, Charcoal Goods or other such artisan hardware. Lots of eager buyers in this artisan space.

 

[BudgetShaverGuy]

What soap, cream, foam, or gel have been using so far? That makes a huge difference!

A vintage Gillette New Long Comb with a very sharp blade like a Gillette Silver Blue, Nacet, or Permasharp makes quick work of my typical 4 day growth, I am socially acceptable (visually) after one pass, and I only do two because I have hair and skin similar to yours. As someone who doesn’t shave everyday, I find open combs work way better than closed combs do.

I’d avoid the monsters like the Razorock JAWS 84. I used one for a year and just dealt with the mild pain for what I perceived to be a close shave. With the vintage Gillette I get a closer shave with virtually no pain.

 

[Danuhoh]

Why not an adjustable, like a Parker or other. For a first pass with long growth, dial up aggressive, and then subsequent pass (or passes) dial it down to mild to minimize irritation.

I would try that method with the Rockwell you have, go with a higher plate first, and then a lower plate, to see how it works. Regarding blades, an Astra SP, SS or Gillette yellow would do the trick.

 

[Medivh]

I have found that the higher-priced razors are actually quite easy to re-sell (often for more than was paid) and thus a great way to ‘rent’ and ‘experiment’ with the high-end razors. Nobody is going to lose money when buying a Timeless, Blackland, Wolfman, Charcoal Goods or other such artisan hardware. Lots of eager buyers in this artisan space.

Agreed. Especially if we talk about Wolfman or other high end razors that are no longer in production or have been for a limited time. The seller can definitely make an extra buck, but I wouldn't recommend them to someone new to this hobby. That's like telling someone who's new into watches to buy a Rolex as his first watch. There's also no guarantee that any of those razors are going to be perfect for everyone. I'm sure they shave very well, but are they going to beat the much cheaper ones that I have is hard to say. Besides, he can always get a more premium razor after some time. The fact that I see lots of people selling their high end razors means that they ain't all that perfect.

 

[The Seasonal Shaver]

I only wish I had the patience to wait a week between shaves--these days I'm just too eager to try just another razor and blade and brush and soap, so I'm missing out on the experience of hacking through serious stubble.

That said, Shane's advice above on a dual comb option sounds like a really good option. I expect to receive the new dual comb Razorock Lupo tomorrow and can't wait to give it a try. But since I won't be removing anything more than 48hrs growth, my experience with it may have little relevance for you.

After reading some of the posts here, I ordered a Razorock SLOC head from Italian Barber. I think it was like $7.99 so that seemed like a low-risk option to try.

 

[The Seasonal Shaver]

What soap, cream, foam, or gel have been using so far? That makes a huge difference!

A vintage Gillette New Long Comb with a very sharp blade like a Gillette Silver Blue, Nacet, or Permasharp makes quick work of my typical 4 day growth, I am socially acceptable (visually) after one pass, and I only do two because I have hair and skin similar to yours. As someone who doesn’t shave everyday, I find open combs work way better than closed combs do.

I’d avoid the monsters like the Razorock JAWS 84. I used one for a year and just dealt with the mild pain for what I perceived to be a close shave. With the vintage Gillette I get a closer shave with virtually no pain.

Soaps: Proraso Green and Cella Aloe Vera. Preshaves: Proraso Green Pre Shave and the PAA Cube. I usually take a hot shower before I Shave, or at minimum, wash my face and beard with warm water and the PAA Cube. I've got my eye on some formula CK-6 CAD at PAA.

 

[The Seasonal Shaver]

Definitely higher gap Wolfman Is a good choice. For vintage, Fatboy or Slim on 7-9 has a large gap, but gentle on the skin. I’ve found that sharper, efficient blades are best with coarse hair/sensitive skin.

I must admit, the idea of owning a vintage razor is intriguing. I'd like to avoid eBay, so where is the best place to find a vintage Slim or Fatboy? Does the year really matter? I've ready about them, but there is a lot to process.

 

[The Seasonal Shaver]

Agreed. Especially if we talk about Wolfman or other high end razors that are no longer in production or have been for a limited time. The seller can definitely make an extra buck, but I wouldn't recommend them to someone new to this hobby. That's like telling someone who's new into watches to buy a Rolex as his first watch. There's also no guarantee that any of those razors are going to be perfect for everyone. I'm sure they shave very well, but are they going to beat the much cheaper ones that I have is hard to say. Besides, he can always get a more premium razor after some time. The fact that I see lots of people selling their high end razors means that they ain't all that perfect.

I've gotta admit, I've already stepped down this road a little a bit, although not as far a Wolfman or a timeless. I will admit, however, that the Timeless .68 OC looks like an amazing razor that I would be very interested to try.