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Identification Help, Please!!!

I just scored three nice brushes on the 'Bay: an off white Ever Ready, a red Erskine that I have a question about but I'll ask in another post, and a black and ,for lack of better description, mottled gold/yellow unknown brand. That's the one I have questions about for ID. The brush is a screw-apart and it looks like the handle was used to hold some shaving cream (maybe). There is an obvious parting line on the black portion. I find absolutely no identifying marks anywhere.

Two questions about this brush? (1) Does anyone know who may have made it and when? and (2) If you were restoring this brush, would you leave the parting lines or sand/polish them down? I'm inclined to leave them alone ... they have a certain character that I like. Your opinons are requested!
 
Looks like my rubberset 203. The markings were on the bottom and as you can see from my pictures are easy to fade. I am still in the process of restoring mine and will most likely leave the lines. The pictures below show both the 153 and 203.

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Good luck,
CZ
 
Yeah it's a 203 by Rubberset. I have restored quite a few of these actually, always have taken the casting lines off of mine but I have seen some restored with the lines left and they look really good as well.
 
Flat Tire What do you use for polish & how are you applying it I'm not getting the results I'm looking for using Simichrome
 
Flat Tire What do you use for polish & how are you applying it I'm not getting the results I'm looking for using Simichrome

I am still messing around with different types. I have a regular metal polish (don't remember the name right now) that comes in a little tub, and I have applied it both by hand and with a buffing wheel in a drill. And I have also tried a polishing compound loaded directly to the buffing wheel.

Either way, the drill seems to be the easiest and quickest and does not appear to get too hot as I am using a 4" wheel (or bigger).

After looking at the handle (the #203 shown above) I decided I didn't like the cast lines and sanded them off using my dremel. Then I used, 220 - 400 - 800 - 1000 - 1200 grit sand paper followed by polishing with the metal polish on the buffing wheel. Took about 20 -30 minutes, but I think it looks even better than the previous picture and you cannot tell where the lines used to be.

Thanks,
CZ
 
I discovered 3M polishing compound (liquid) when refinishing the headlight covers on my car. Really good stuff that leaves a super-fine finish. Got a bottle of it last night at a local auto parts store for right around $10.00.
 
I discovered 3M polishing compound (liquid) when refinishing the headlight covers on my car. Really good stuff that leaves a super-fine finish. Got a bottle of it last night at a local auto parts store for right around $10.00.

How does it work for you? The polishing compounds I have tried are good at leaving a shiny surface, but still do not remove scratches. I find I need multiple iterations with the fine grit sand paper and polishing compound. Polish to see where the scratches still remain, use 1000+ grit sand paper to try and remove the scratches, re-polish, re-inspect.

If I were really picky I could spend all day at this. So does the 3M remove visible scratches or just brighten the surface (i.e. remove ultra fine invisible scratches)?

Thanks,
CZ
 
CZ, I'm in the same boat ... could spend waaaaayyyy too much time fretting over a few scratches here and there - and sometimes I do. For this Rubberset I am working on now, I am going through the 320, 400, 600, 1200 paper routine followed by polishing with 6, 3, and 1 micron diamond paste (from a previous career) and then the 3M compound to shine 'er up. So much time ... so little to do.
 
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