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I Wish Soap Makers Would Focus More on Scents Than Bases

I agree with the OP. Just about every soap I've tried the last 3 or 4 years had great performance. To me scent is important because it adds to my shave experience if I enjoy the scent of the soap. Tabac is a great performer, but the scent isn't my thing so I rush through my shave so I can rinse it away and put on my AS and EDT.

One other point--scent descriptions from artisans tend to be terrible, overly wordy, meaningless drivel. Don't tell me "this scent will remind you of a time when men were men and barbershops offered haircuts on a cool spring afternoon and the homeless lady on the corner was selling flowers she dug up from someones front yard..." I read a lot of descriptions that just leave me saying, "what the..."
 
After recently experiencing a particularly severe case of SAD I've come to the conclusion that soap makers should spend more time and effort on their scents rather than creating new bases. To be honest, I can't tell the difference in performance from the old bases to the new ones. Now sure, if you go back a decade you can find a difference in performance compared to the new stuff. But that's not what I'm talking about. I'm talking about all the bases that have come out in the last 3-4 years. They're all basically the same with very minor improvements.

Where I think a lot of the artisans could stand to improve is in the scent department. Everything from coming up with coherent scent descriptions that actually match the smell of the soap, to a rating system that lists scent strength and longevity, to hiring professional perfumers occasionally to come up with a unique, great smelling soap even if it turns out to be a little more expensive.

And I guess that's where my real complaint is. It seems like so many of the artisans are just a little bit off with a scent or they aren't complex enough; something is missing. I wish one of the American artisans would work with a professional perfumer for a line of soaps that focus on scent above everything else. I know Declaration Grooming does this with Chatillon Lux but I want something better that works with the natural scent already present in the bare soap. The Gentleman's Nod/Zarahoff collaboration didn't quite smell the same as the cologne either, something was off.

I'm thinking of something along the lines of what Nuavia did with their four scents or Saponificio Varesino which also seems to put out great scents, but for one of the American artisans to do it instead. I know scent blending in necessarily the strength of a soap maker, but I've received quite a few recently that left me underwhelmed based on what I was expecting.

Anyone else feel the same way?

they do.

CF has done this....

20200714_085237.jpg


the only problem is that they are limited edition with runs of 200 according to the website.

20200713_190746.jpg


I would say these are not cologne like "smelling" in the sense of either modern cologne scents or older favs that have been around.

Macaque has green apple up front with frankincense or other spicy smells with it. some cedar and a lot of other smells poking out. I dont smell too well but everytime I pick up the jar I smell something different and that is amazing. at the zoologistperfumes.com website.......the collaborative perfumers seem to have quite the imagination and I like that.

to me it is a fresh look at soaps and a good product that is at least pondered by professionals.

will it be for everyone........probably not. I'm sure it will come with nay sayers. my intial impression is good.

camo
 
they do.

CF has done this....

View attachment 1126103

the only problem is that they are limited edition with runs of 200 according to the website.

View attachment 1126104

I would say these are not cologne like "smelling" in the sense of either modern cologne scents or older favs that have been around.

Macaque has green apple up front with frankincense or other spicy smells with it. some cedar and a lot of other smells poking out. I dont smell too well but everytime I pick up the jar I smell something different and that is amazing. at the zoologistperfumes.com website.......the collaborative perfumers seem to have quite the imagination and I like that.

to me it is a fresh look at soaps and a good product that is at least pondered by professionals.

will it be for everyone........probably not. I'm sure it will come with nay sayers. my intial impression is good.

camo

nevermind.....just saw you purchased them !!!!

camo
 
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I would probably recommend picking
would like to hear about Civet.....was leaning heavily toward that one.

camo
I find Zoologist's Civet to be very much in the style of a vintage women's fragrance. While I rarely have a problem with rocking a quality perfume that was "made for women", i would highly recommend that anyone not quite as comfortable with feminine-leaning fragrance find an inexpensive sample of the Civet parfum before dropping $40-ish dollars on a shave soap.
 
Australian Private Reserve was focussed on scents. Actually Dan does not longer sell soaps, just parfum....
 
I have a lot of soaps and will not be buying anymore till I've used up 5 different soaps
most of my soaps are a different variation of Lime since I'm a major Lime freak. I like the Orange scents too but not as much. I cannot stand Lemon scent because it smells too much like spic n span and I've hated the smell of that stuff since I was a small child.
 
would like to hear about Civet.....was leaning heavily toward that one.

camo

Kinda long post. TLDR: these are all very well fragranced shave soaps that are more complex (in scent) than even the upper tier shave soaps. For those that prioritize scent over other factors I'd highly recommend all 3 assuming the scent notes match what you like.

On to the initial review:

Received the Civet, Macaque, and Panda today. All very nicely packaged in heavier than typical jars.

All three are noticeably more complex in scent than your typical artisan offering, even upper tier artisan offerings. Not to knock the artisans, but scents aren't always their specialty and given that my skin doesn't require a special base I focus on scents. I'm just tired of ordering soaps that sound intriguing based on the scent description but then when you get them it's absolutely dominated by one note or two and gets boring very quick. Maybe I'm just expecting too much from the artisans who aren't professional perfumers in the first place.

My only complaint with the Zoologist/Chiseled Face collaboration is that there is no aftershave option. I haven't used the soaps yet so maybe they are strong enough to act as an aftershave on their own but I think when a soap maker collaborates with a professional perfumer there should be both aftershave and cologne options. If I'm just spending an afternoon at home I don't need the strength of the cologne and an aftershave would be perfect for that situation.

Of the three Civet and Panda are my favorite. I can see Civet being a great spring and summer option. It's reasonably fresh and bright with other things I can't identify going on underneath. That's what I like so much about the more complex scented soaps, you can pick out a few things initially, but then there's more going on underneath that continues to pique my interest.

As mentioned, Civet was my initial favorite but I wouldn't call it a vintage women's fragrance; but then I don't know much (in other words, not a damn thing) about vintage women's fragrances. I would call it a complex chypre that tends slightly toward masculine but could be considered unisex. I don't have a problem with unisex fragrances as they've become more common over the years. I would compare it to a very complex B&M Le Grand Chypre where the citrus has been turned down and there is a lot more going on in the background. I'm not able to identify the background notes yet, still working on my nose.

Panda is my second favorite (and might be first after I use them) but I'm not sure what season it would go with. It's got nice, fresh fruit type smell upfront but then quickly transitions to a sandalwood note. It's very interesting and unlike anything I've smelled before. I usually don't like sandalwood but the freshness of this has me intrigued.

Macaque is my least favorite of the three. I don't think I'm a fan of the cedar in it and I suspect there might be something with the soap base that is throwing off the scent a little bit. This is one I'll definitely have to use first to see if I like it. Generally I don't prefer cedar scents but this one might turn out nice for fall.

Overall I'm pleased with the purchase and only see myself possibly parting with one, Macaque, but that will depend on how it smells after lathering.

I wish more soap makers would collaborate with professional perfumers more often and I wish they were easier to find out about rather than after the fact. I would have purchased Southern Witchcrafts Gravefruit but didn't find out about it until a few days after release and it was already sold out everywhere.

I really think there is a gap in the market at the moment where shave soap makers and professional perfumers can get together to create some really excellent products for those of us who focus on scent rather than performance. Unless you have a specific skin issue or allergy, any number of soaps today would work. Base isn't where we're lacking, scent is. Ymmv as always.
 
Kinda long post. TLDR: these are all very well fragranced shave soaps that are more complex (in scent) than even the upper tier shave soaps. For those that prioritize scent over other factors I'd highly recommend all 3 assuming the scent notes match what you like.

On to the initial review:

Received the Civet, Macaque, and Panda today. All very nicely packaged in heavier than typical jars.

All three are noticeably more complex in scent than your typical artisan offering, even upper tier artisan offerings. Not to knock the artisans, but scents aren't always their specialty and given that my skin doesn't require a special base I focus on scents. I'm just tired of ordering soaps that sound intriguing based on the scent description but then when you get them it's absolutely dominated by one note or two and gets boring very quick. Maybe I'm just expecting too much from the artisans who aren't professional perfumers in the first place.

My only complaint with the Zoologist/Chiseled Face collaboration is that there is no aftershave option. I haven't used the soaps yet so maybe they are strong enough to act as an aftershave on their own but I think when a soap maker collaborates with a professional perfumer there should be both aftershave and cologne options. If I'm just spending an afternoon at home I don't need the strength of the cologne and an aftershave would be perfect for that situation.

Of the three Civet and Panda are my favorite. I can see Civet being a great spring and summer option. It's reasonably fresh and bright with other things I can't identify going on underneath. That's what I like so much about the more complex scented soaps, you can pick out a few things initially, but then there's more going on underneath that continues to pique my interest.

As mentioned, Civet was my initial favorite but I wouldn't call it a vintage women's fragrance; but then I don't know much (in other words, not a damn thing) about vintage women's fragrances. I would call it a complex chypre that tends slightly toward masculine but could be considered unisex. I don't have a problem with unisex fragrances as they've become more common over the years. I would compare it to a very complex B&M Le Grand Chypre where the citrus has been turned down and there is a lot more going on in the background. I'm not able to identify the background notes yet, still working on my nose.

Panda is my second favorite (and might be first after I use them) but I'm not sure what season it would go with. It's got nice, fresh fruit type smell upfront but then quickly transitions to a sandalwood note. It's very interesting and unlike anything I've smelled before. I usually don't like sandalwood but the freshness of this has me intrigued.

Macaque is my least favorite of the three. I don't think I'm a fan of the cedar in it and I suspect there might be something with the soap base that is throwing off the scent a little bit. This is one I'll definitely have to use first to see if I like it. Generally I don't prefer cedar scents but this one might turn out nice for fall.

Overall I'm pleased with the purchase and only see myself possibly parting with one, Macaque, but that will depend on how it smells after lathering.

I wish more soap makers would collaborate with professional perfumers more often and I wish they were easier to find out about rather than after the fact. I would have purchased Southern Witchcrafts Gravefruit but didn't find out about it until a few days after release and it was already sold out everywhere.

I really think there is a gap in the market at the moment where shave soap makers and professional perfumers can get together to create some really excellent products for those of us who focus on scent rather than performance. Unless you have a specific skin issue or allergy, any number of soaps today would work. Base isn't where we're lacking, scent is. Ymmv as always.

the macaque morphs I think when lathering I think......but that may be me.

they are complex scents indeed.

camo
 
Kinda long post. TLDR: these are all very well fragranced shave soaps that are more complex (in scent) than even the upper tier shave soaps. For those that prioritize scent over other factors I'd highly recommend all 3 assuming the scent notes match what you like.

On to the initial review:

Received the Civet, Macaque, and Panda today. All very nicely packaged in heavier than typical jars.

All three are noticeably more complex in scent than your typical artisan offering, even upper tier artisan offerings. Not to knock the artisans, but scents aren't always their specialty and given that my skin doesn't require a special base I focus on scents. I'm just tired of ordering soaps that sound intriguing based on the scent description but then when you get them it's absolutely dominated by one note or two and gets boring very quick. Maybe I'm just expecting too much from the artisans who aren't professional perfumers in the first place.

My only complaint with the Zoologist/Chiseled Face collaboration is that there is no aftershave option. I haven't used the soaps yet so maybe they are strong enough to act as an aftershave on their own but I think when a soap maker collaborates with a professional perfumer there should be both aftershave and cologne options. If I'm just spending an afternoon at home I don't need the strength of the cologne and an aftershave would be perfect for that situation.

Of the three Civet and Panda are my favorite. I can see Civet being a great spring and summer option. It's reasonably fresh and bright with other things I can't identify going on underneath. That's what I like so much about the more complex scented soaps, you can pick out a few things initially, but then there's more going on underneath that continues to pique my interest.

As mentioned, Civet was my initial favorite but I wouldn't call it a vintage women's fragrance; but then I don't know much (in other words, not a damn thing) about vintage women's fragrances. I would call it a complex chypre that tends slightly toward masculine but could be considered unisex. I don't have a problem with unisex fragrances as they've become more common over the years. I would compare it to a very complex B&M Le Grand Chypre where the citrus has been turned down and there is a lot more going on in the background. I'm not able to identify the background notes yet, still working on my nose.

Panda is my second favorite (and might be first after I use them) but I'm not sure what season it would go with. It's got nice, fresh fruit type smell upfront but then quickly transitions to a sandalwood note. It's very interesting and unlike anything I've smelled before. I usually don't like sandalwood but the freshness of this has me intrigued.

Macaque is my least favorite of the three. I don't think I'm a fan of the cedar in it and I suspect there might be something with the soap base that is throwing off the scent a little bit. This is one I'll definitely have to use first to see if I like it. Generally I don't prefer cedar scents but this one might turn out nice for fall.

Overall I'm pleased with the purchase and only see myself possibly parting with one, Macaque, but that will depend on how it smells after lathering.

I wish more soap makers would collaborate with professional perfumers more often and I wish they were easier to find out about rather than after the fact. I would have purchased Southern Witchcrafts Gravefruit but didn't find out about it until a few days after release and it was already sold out everywhere.

I really think there is a gap in the market at the moment where shave soap makers and professional perfumers can get together to create some really excellent products for those of us who focus on scent rather than performance. Unless you have a specific skin issue or allergy, any number of soaps today would work. Base isn't where we're lacking, scent is. Ymmv as always.
I'm glad that you liked the soaps!
I have, at one point or another, owned all three of those CF/Zoologist shave soaps (Rhinoceros as well). They are very good, and the fragrance in the soap is almost identical to the fragrance in the Zoologist bottle. And I guess that's my problem with the line. If I like the scent enough to justify spending $40 on the shave soap, why not just shave with the soaps that I already have and buy the Zoologist parfum travel bottles? It was impossible for me to justify keeping the CF/Zoologist soaps, as I liked the Zoologist scents and I knew that i could just buy the original parfum for what the soap cost me. And in the end it worked out well for me, as I got pretty burned out on all of the Zoologist line and I was able to sell the fragrances for what I paid for them. But like you said, YMMV.
 
I'm glad that you liked the soaps!
I have, at one point or another, owned all three of those CF/Zoologist shave soaps (Rhinoceros as well). They are very good, and the fragrance in the soap is almost identical to the fragrance in the Zoologist bottle. And I guess that's my problem with the line. If I like the scent enough to justify spending $40 on the shave soap, why not just shave with the soaps that I already have and buy the Zoologist parfum travel bottles? It was impossible for me to justify keeping the CF/Zoologist soaps, as I liked the Zoologist scents and I knew that i could just buy the original parfum for what the soap cost me. And in the end it worked out well for me, as I got pretty burned out on all of the Zoologist line and I was able to sell the fragrances for what I paid for them. But like you said, YMMV.

I think where I differ from a lot of the fragrance aficionados here is that I only want a true cologne occasionally. Usually I'm looking for the weaker fragrance of an aftershave or strongly scented shave soap (Nuavia, particularly blue and red) and there just isn't as much of that around. I still want the complexity, just not as strong of a scent while around the house. As always, ymmv.

Edited to add: obligatory pic

IMG_20200717_151339.jpg
 
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I think where I differ from a lot of the fragrance aficionados here is that I only want a true cologne occasionally. Usually I'm looking for the weaker fragrance of an aftershave or strongly scented shave soap (Nuavia, particularly blue and red) and there just isn't as much of that around. I still want the complexity, just not as strong of a scent while around the house. As always, ymmv.

Edited to add: obligatory pic

View attachment 1126906
Totally understand. I am pretty much the exact opposite. While i really enjoy soaps that smell good (Eufros is my favorite by a good amount), I don't want anything that will overpower and/or clash with my fragrances.
If you haven't already done so, you might want to check out some high quality attars at some point. They can be very complex and they last a very long time on the skin, but they don't project like perfumes. And even the smallest amount last!
Enjoy your new soaps.
 
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